How To: T-56 removal & FRPP TOB install

piss&vinegar

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Just got done with the clutch install. I installed a Ford Racing Throwout Bearing and people are saying don't put grease on the input shaft/retainer but the throwout bearing had grease so I am not sure why you would not grease the retainer anyway. Thoughts? I have the Ford Tech book on our cars and it says to grease the retainer(sleeve). Am I getting terms mixed up or has others seen this as well?
 

MalcolmV8

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I've always used grease on mine. Had my Cobra since brand new and I've done the same on prior mustangs. Never been an issue. In fact I would think the grease helps keep down metal on metal wear. The idea behind no grease is dirt will stick to grease and act as an abrasive. Much like having sand paper in there but I've never had that trouble. Mine are always clean inside. I keep the dust cover on by the clutch cable and I don't go wheeling in in the mud :) lol. I think either way will work fine.
 

piss&vinegar

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I put a very thin coat of a fully synthetic grease on mine as well and when I saw the TOB had it I felt it was for the best but I guess only time will tell.
 

CobraFed

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Great instructions......
My clutch pedal just started to do the clicking thing, so I'm going to check it out now. Hopefully it is fine and I just have to tighten the firewall cable adjuster.
 

604cobra

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no more bitch bolt

juz installed my spec twin disk..mine was already missing ,i wanted to have all 3 bolts back in the starter(the right way),so i thread the top bolt hole on the starter had a buddy to mill the bellhousing bolt location ( make a ledge so a allen head bolt could bolt squarely to )thur the bell into the starter so no more bitch bolt to deal with.. i can get to it same as the bell &trans bolts ......the way to go have no worries
 
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MalcolmV8

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juz installed my spec twin disk..mine was already missing ,i wanted to have all 3 bolts back in the starter(the right way),so i thread the top bolt hole on the starter had a buddy to mill the bellhousing bolt location ( make a ledge so a allen head bolt could bolt squarely to )thur the bell into the starter so no more bitch bolt to deal with.. i can get to it same as the bell &trans bolts ......the way to go have no worries

Not sure why you needed to do all that? I put the top third bolt in no problems. Just slide it in from the front of the car with a nice long socket extension and it goes right in.
 

gamatt

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Another "thanks" bump. Replaced the noisy TOB and while I was in there took out the 42k stock clutch out and inspected. Plenty of life left, so back in it went along with a new pilot bearing for good measure.

My advice on the 3rd starter bolt is to lay with your feet going out the driver's side of the car, putting your hand in behind the starter. From there a 3/8 ratchet with a swivel, a 3" wobble extension and a 3" regular extension gets the job done in no time. I could never figure out a path from the front bumper.

When mating the trans, I had the input shaft mated to the clutch and it was lined up perfectly, but I could not push it all the way in, so for the last 1/2" or so I carefully and gradually used the bolts. Anyone else have this problem?
 

P49Y-CY

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Another "thanks" bump. Replaced the noisy TOB and while I was in there took out the 42k stock clutch out and inspected. Plenty of life left, so back in it went along with a new pilot bearing for good measure.

My advice on the 3rd starter bolt is to lay with your feet going out the driver's side of the car, putting your hand in behind the starter. From there a 3/8 ratchet with a swivel, a 3" wobble extension and a 3" regular extension gets the job done in no time. I could never figure out a path from the front bumper.

When mating the trans, I had the input shaft mated to the clutch and it was lined up perfectly, but I could not push it all the way in, so for the last 1/2" or so I carefully and gradually used the bolts. Anyone else have this problem?

sometimes it's helpful to tilt the rear of the engine down just slightly to get it to mate up all the way
 

MalcolmV8

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When mating the trans, I had the input shaft mated to the clutch and it was lined up perfectly, but I could not push it all the way in, so for the last 1/2" or so I carefully and gradually used the bolts. Anyone else have this problem?

Hopefully yours worked out but generally that's a big no no. The bolts will pull the trans and engine together with enough force to damage parts if something's not lining up right.
I always make sure I can seat the transmission flush against the engine and then thread in the bolts.
 

gamatt

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sometimes it's helpful to tilt the rear of the engine down just slightly to get it to mate up all the way

Yep, had to do that to get the alignment right.

Hopefully yours worked out but generally that's a big no no. The bolts will pull the trans and engine together with enough force to damage parts if something's not lining up right.
I always make sure I can seat the transmission flush against the engine and then thread in the bolts.

I was doing this with the help of a true Mustang lifer :-D (65 k code, 66 coupe, 84 GT, 98 GT) so we were careful and the bolts turned very easily. So far so good, the car drives like new.
 

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