How To: T-56 removal & FRPP TOB install

[GrayGhost03]

I think it just keeps the bearing from spining on the clutch fork and wearing it down.

talked to the guy at the trans shop and he said what you said. thanks

a broke 1/4" swivel and 3 hours later i got the starter bolts off.:thumbsup:

 

[trmin8ter03]

Just finished installing a spec stage 3+ clutch today. Everything seems to be fine except when im at a dead stop in first gear as I slowly let off the clutch the rear end seems to hop arond a little and it sounds like its poping, but if i let it off rapidly it takes off fine. I didnt have any problems with the rear end before the clutch install. Has anyone experienced this? Is this normal during the break in period. By the way I think this is a great clutch i can feel how hard it grabs and the pedal is light as butter, much better than stock. Sorry Grayghost i couldnt get any pics up of the starter removal but as i was putting it on today i threaded the extentions in between the header and K member with one had and the other held the socket on the bolt, this might help someone else.

 

[TRBO VNM]

trmin8ter03,

what you are probably feeling is the chatter. if you give it a tad more gas, it should reduce it some. once you get to about 800-1000 miles on the clutch it should pretty much be gone. you may always have a little coming out of 1st and reverse, but you will probably learn how to drive around it.

 

[trmin8ter03]

Thanks trbo, yeah if i give it more gas it doesnt happend and take let off the clutch fast. I think i just need to get used to it being so aggressive. I orderd a ford racing tob from leathalperformance, I think the one they sent me isnt from ford it doesnt have the ford staped on it or the part number. Has anyone bought one resently? Isnt it supposed to have the ford logo stamped on it and the part number, i ended up using the one that came with the clutch hope it lasts.

 

[timbo3282]

You do need to remove the starter to get the bell housing off, but not if your just removing the trans. In this write up i think he was replacing the tob. This is a great how too, there is also a great video online that shows you the entire process on a 03 cobra of replacing the clutch. My tob just went out last week and broke the retainer sleeve. I have the car on jackstands Still waiting on parts. Im replacing the clutch and upgrading to 26 spline. Not too hard to do but it helps to have someone muscle the trans out from under the car.

Do you happen to have a link to the video?

 

[trmin8ter03]

go to streetfire.net and search for cobra clutch install there are two parts very descriptive and step by step.

 

[rdy2xlr8]

part 1
[ame=http://videos.streetfire.net/video/DDD-03-Cobra-Spec-3-Part_147336.htm]DDD - '03 Cobra Spec 3+ Clutch Install Part 1- Video[/ame]
part 2
[ame=http://videos.streetfire.net/video/DDD-03-Cobra-Spec-3-Part_147337.htm]DDD - '03 Cobra Spec 3+ Clutch Install Part 2- Video[/ame]

 

[chitowncobra]

part 1
DDD - '03 Cobra Spec 3+ Clutch Install Part 1- Video
part 2
DDD - '03 Cobra Spec 3+ Clutch Install Part 2- Video

nice video on how to install a clutch w/ before and after videos!!!!:beer::beer::beer:

 

[MalcolmV8]

There is one bolt, commonly referred to as the "bitch" bolt. It is one of the 8 bolts holding the trans to the bell housing and it is located on the top passenger side of the transmission. This bolt is in fact a pain in the a$$ but with a little patience and LONG extensions/swivel heads it will come out.

I found it very easy to get that bolt with no swivels. Just plug several long extensions together so you have a really long extension and come from the back of the tranny and slide it all the way up front and you can turn that bolt right out. Real easy and quick.

DO NOT APPLY GREASE TO THE RETAINER!!!

Why's that?

 

[P49Y-CY]

I found it very easy to get that bolt with no swivels. Just plug several long extensions together so you have a really long extension and come from the back of the tranny and slide it all the way up front and you can turn that bolt right out. Real easy and quick.

agreed that one actually works better with no swivels, strange as it may seem. i think it helps if you drop the rear of the tranny as much as possible too

but i have always found that reinstalling that bolt WITH the tab for the breather tube is where i do the most cussing lol

 

[Wicked46]

I found it very easy to get that bolt with no swivels. Just plug several long extensions together so you have a really long extension and come from the back of the tranny and slide it all the way up front and you can turn that bolt right out. Real easy and quick.



Why's that?

Applying greese to the bearing retainer has been debated for a while now. Some people do it, some don't. I recomend that you don't. Just like mentioned in the video above, the greese will attract dust and dirt and eat up the retainer and wear grooves in it. Thats my opinion. Plus, Ford does not grease the ratainers for that same reason.

 

[Evilspyderman]

Applying greese to the bearing retainer has been debated for a while now. Some people do it, some don't. I recomend that you don't. Just like mentioned in the video above, the greese will attract dust and dirt and eat up the retainer and wear grooves in it. Thats my opinion. Plus, Ford does not grease the ratainers for that same reason.

This is very good advise IMO. I am and have been a Blackhawk Helicopter Mechanic and Crew Chief in the Army for seven years. I have spent two years of that deployed to Iraq. Any place dust can stick to moving parts is very bad. I was doing my pre-flight inspection one day and found a problem that kept me from flying that ACFT that night. After my short flight I came back to fix the problem because it was on my assigned airframe. When the ACFT was reassembled 10 days earlier from a scheduled Phase Insp (like a overhaul every 360 flight hours) dust had gotten inside the tail rotor assembly. As I removed componets to fix the small fault I found earlier I started finding a lot more problems. There was extreme damage to all the close tollerance surfaces, it looked like someone had carved them up with a dremel tool. Keep in mind these pieces are titanium. $300,000 dollars in parts later and it was ready to roll back out on line. Not to mention nearly 250 man hours for all the maintenance and the follow on maintenance to get it fully mission capable again.

However there is a substance we use to lubricate metal to metal surfaces. It is a spray on dry film lubricant. You spray on a light coat, just enough to cover all the shinny metal surfaces. It takes approx 24 hours to dry. When it starts to come off it simply flakes off. It will last a long time when the surface your applying it to gets cleaned very well prior to applying it. Here is a similar product to what we use on the ACFT.

Loctite 39895 Moly Dry Film Lubricant

 

[stradt03]

This is very good advise IMO. I am and have been a Blackhawk Helicopter Mechanic and Crew Chief in the Army for seven years. I have spent two years of that deployed to Iraq. Any place dust can stick to moving parts is very bad. I was doing my pre-flight inspection one day and found a problem that kept me from flying that ACFT that night. After my short flight I came back to fix the problem because it was on my assigned airframe. When the ACFT was reassembled 10 days earlier from a scheduled Phase Insp (like a overhaul every 360 flight hours) dust had gotten inside the tail rotor assembly. As I removed componets to fix the small fault I found earlier I started finding a lot more problems. There was extreme damage to all the close tollerance surfaces, it looked like someone had carved them up with a dremel tool. Keep in mind these pieces are titanium. $300,000 dollars in parts later and it was ready to roll back out on line. Not to mention nearly 250 man hours for all the maintenance and the follow on maintenance to get it fully mission capable again.

However there is a substance we use to lubricate metal to metal surfaces. It is a spray on dry film lubricant. You spray on a light coat, just enough to cover all the shinny metal surfaces. It takes approx 24 hours to dry. When it starts to come off it simply flakes off. It will last a long time when the surface your applying it to gets cleaned very well prior to applying it. Here is a similar product to what we use on the ACFT.

Loctite 39895 Moly Dry Film Lubricant

Hey I used to live in Puyallup!!

 

[MalcolmV8]

$300,000 dollars in parts later and it was ready to roll back out on line. Not to mention nearly 250 man hours for all the maintenance and the follow on maintenance to get it fully mission capable again.

Man that amazes me. Why 250 man hours to repair a tail rotor? I fly r/c helis so this stuff is exciting to me

 

[Evilspyderman]

Man that amazes me. Why 250 man hours to repair a tail rotor? I fly r/c helis so this stuff is exciting to me

The Army counts man hours like this, Number of people times the hours taken to completed the job equals man hours. It was a long process because we were trying not to just take it apart and replace everything. It is too easy to just to change parts out, because of the cost of the parts we inspected everything with a technical inspector with us. We had to take it apart, clean everything, inspect it, measure all the critical componets, repairing everything we could, and then get all the new parts from supply, and start reassembly. It took my friend and I a while.

Back to the man hours question, 2 of us + 2 technical inspectors for all of that above. Then it was 1 Maintenance Test Pilot + 1 Pilot + 2 Crewchief's + 2 more Crewchiefs assisting the other two but not participating in the test flights. The majority of the maintenance time was because of all the follow on maintenance required to balance and test all the new parts and then release the ACFT for flight. Aviation maintenance is way more time consuming due to balancing everything and safety procedures.

P.S. Just reinstalled my trans today with my new FRPP Clutch fork and FRPP HD TOB, and LDC free play mod. Runs great now!! All that slop/ rattle is gone from the pedal. Shifts way smoother. My SPEC TOB was toast and the spring clips on the stock clutch fork that hold the TOB and attach it to the pivot ball were toast as well. I also installed my 2.76 pulley and idler set with my tune from ATS!!!!!! Oh so fast now but I need send these toyo's off in style and get some DR's to go on my new 18" black chrome saleen's!!!

 

[Wicked46]

Awesome man.. Hopefully my write-up helped you out

 

[badazzebz06]

since i can bench 405 do u guys reccomend i just lay under the tranny and lower it myself.....i have no friends sick writeup and great timing cause guess who has a squeaky tob!!!!!

 

[stolher]

evilspyderman. You are such a tool! Hows life man?

 

[strong_j]

How is everybody getting the top bellhousing bolts off?? Everything has gone smoothly until ive hit them. It seems like every tool ive tried nothing will fit between the firewall and bellhousing.

btw great write up my friend!! it has helped ALOT!! lol

NM!! just took me going in the house and breaking for lunch. when i got back out i got them right off!!

 

[MalcolmV8]

How is everybody getting the top bellhousing bolts off?? Everything has gone smoothly until ive hit them. It seems like every tool ive tried nothing will fit between the firewall and bellhousing.

The trick is loosening the exhaust to allow the motor to move and put a jack under the front of the motor and tilt it back slightly. You'll get to all those tranny bolts with ease.