How do i remove the rear caliper on my o1 cobra. i got the pads all replaced up front, now im just dumbfounded on the rears and ive already came close to stripping a bolt to the way i think it should coe off..., please help before i go insain. thnks
How to remove rear caliper on cobra
- Thread starter ID3Racing
- Start date
there are 2 bolts on the back side; take them out. There are two larger bolts on the bracket, you can leave them in if you don't need to take off the rotor also. Find the wire for the parking brake and slip it off. Do not take off the parking brake spring (bing pita). Also do not have the parking brake on. The caliper can come off now but may be tight. Take a large screw driver for leverage and gently pry the caliper off.
Boot? are you refering to the rubber axle boot? Just look on the back of the caliper there will be two small maybe 10mm bolts.
EDIT: look at the next post. Yea the boot is the slider for the floating caliper and its bolt.
EDIT: look at the next post. Yea the boot is the slider for the floating caliper and its bolt.
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Rent the brake tool from autozone...u need it to push the piston back in...
I took a look and decided to take mine to a shop. But then I'm not the most mechanically inclined and I don't have a ton of tools either. Trying to get to the bolt on the left side (looking at the caliper from front) was a pita. I quit before I really even started.
He might also be refering to the c-clip that holds the e-brake cable into the housing that's made into the back of the caliper. I got hung up on that myself.
For those that don't know, there is a c-clip on the sheath near where the cable runs into the housing on the back of the calipre. Take that c-clip off w/ a pair of bottle nose pliers and then you can grab the end of the e-brake cabble w/ some vice grips or channle lock pliers and pull it up and out of the spring actuator. Like KXT said, don't take that spring off, it's not necessary and it's a total pita to get back in place!
One last thing to consider, once you've turned the caliper piston back in and put the pads in it can be a little tricky to get the clipre back on the rotor becuase the pads have these little springs on the back of them to force them into place. You can bend those springs a little bit and once you get one bolt in place and started the other one should be a little easier.
Good luck!
For those that don't know, there is a c-clip on the sheath near where the cable runs into the housing on the back of the calipre. Take that c-clip off w/ a pair of bottle nose pliers and then you can grab the end of the e-brake cabble w/ some vice grips or channle lock pliers and pull it up and out of the spring actuator. Like KXT said, don't take that spring off, it's not necessary and it's a total pita to get back in place!
One last thing to consider, once you've turned the caliper piston back in and put the pads in it can be a little tricky to get the clipre back on the rotor becuase the pads have these little springs on the back of them to force them into place. You can bend those springs a little bit and once you get one bolt in place and started the other one should be a little easier.
Good luck!
edswhite99 said:
Dude - Brakes are a breeze. Seriously, I was reluctant to do mine for YEARS even though I have zero problem doing any other maintained on my car. I even helped my former brother in law swap out my AODE for a T-5 in my old 95GT - So, it's not like I'm mechanically retarded. I would just think "hey, these have to work for me to stop. If I screw these up - I'm in trouble." Now that I realize they're no big deal to do - pthththth. I feel stupid for putting off learning how to do them for so long.
Find a buddy who knows how to do em. Order a pizza and have him sit with you while you do the work. It's really not that bad.
Well, I'll say this - the backs are a pain in the butt with that piston having to be turned (and just buy the tool needed to rotate the piston - it's only like $11)
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Bizarro said:
That was what held me up for a long time becuase as my g/f put it, "Stop is actually more important than go! You'll learn this at the first traffic light!"
But after I did it I'd agree it wasn't really that bad. I'd say give it full day if you're doing all four and it's your first time.
REX-RACER said:
And that's with the right tools. If you go ahead and get that cube tool for the rear pistons, that will save you some time...I hated those pistons once I was done...
Oh, and you g/f's comment reminded me...
A buddy of mine's dad had drag raced in the NHRA, IHRA, has held land speed records, is in the HotRod Hall of fame book (Let's just say, the man has gone fast). My buddy was telling me one time at a drag event, the brakes weren't working the way they should and they were talking about what to do. Well, his dad made the comment "well, we aren't going to win the race by stopping". Needless to say even with the parachute he ended up deep in the field at the end of the track when he finally stopped... :lol:
Brakes are almost as easy as putting gas in the car .... You should never have to pay anyone to put new shoes on ...
Give it a whirl .... you will be pleasantly surprised .... and you save a shitload of cash ..
Give it a whirl .... you will be pleasantly surprised .... and you save a shitload of cash ..
i havnt done the cobra brakes yet, but i did new rotos and pads on my old crown vic in about 2.5 hours. of course pneumatic ratchets help a bit lol
SnkBtn99 said:
Come on now. They might be easy for you, but no way is it as easy as pumping gas. I can do that with 1 hand. Don't be facetious.
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