How to Properly Adjust and Adjustable Clutch Cable & Firewall Adjuster

Venom97

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I've searched thru the FAQ and DIY and cant seem to find anything specific for the terminator. I had problems with the car shifting at high RPM's. SO I piclked up a Steeda quadrent and a Fiore FW adjuster. I installed those with a stock cable and worked ok until the stock cable broke. I since picked up an adjustable cable so now I have the fw adjuster, quadrent and adjustable cable.

I'm trying to get a clear explanation on how to PROPERLY adjust the cable and the firewall adjuster. As of no I am getting a clicking/squeeling from the trans? Probably the TOB?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
 

Alwaysready

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Hmm see this is why people recomend you use a stock cable
because now you have 2 different places to adjust
my advise is leave the firewall adjuster where its at and adjust the cable now
then you can fine tune with the firewall adjuster..
clutch engagement should be halfway up from the floor to the top of travel is what i always heard and have done.. just did it tonite..
(installed a new quadrant and firewall adjuster on a stock cable..)
 

lowflyn

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On my setup (3 hood quadrant, fiore adjuster, stock cable) I adjust the firewall adjuster until the tob is barely sitting on the pressure plate. I check to make sure the pedal is in the normal range (not at the top or bottom) and adjust the firewall adjuster slightly until the TOB is no longer riding on the pressure plate.

Crank the car and leave in neutral idling and listen for noises. I do several pushes of the clutch to make sure everything is good to go.

Biggest thing that will tell the difference is a test drive. If you drive the car and it's hard to go in gear or any other issues fine adjust accordingly.
 

SnakeBit

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I have the LDC Freeplay Spring and adjust mine with the car up on jack stands and the engine idling in neutral. I remove the inspection cover at the clutch arm on the driver's side of the tranny and adjust so the TOB just stops spinning.

If no freeplay spring, then adjust it so the pedal can freely move down 1/4-1/2" (use your hand on the pedal, NOT your foot). Then in a driveway or parking lot, fine tune at the firewall until the clutch grabs in a comfortable place (about halfway up on the pedal). If it grabs too high, it might not be fully engaged with the pedal all the way up. This will cause your clutch to wear out too quickly. If it grabs close to the floor, you may have trouble shifting since it's not releasing enough.

IMO, the Freeplay Spring makes it easy to adjust the clutch properly, but then again, I never had a problem before installing the spring either. Good luck.
 

Venom97

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What is the LDC? Is the inspection cover the same cover you take off to change clutch cable?

Not sure what you mean by allowing the pedal to move "freely" 1/2-1/2 way? The clucth pedal shouldnt have slack in it. I think I'm just misunderstanding what your saying.
 

SnakeBit

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>>LDC Freeplay Spring<<

Yes, that is the inspection cover

There should be 1/2" or so of easy up and down movement of the clutch pedal. I suggest using your hand because it is easier to feel than it is with your foot. This would mean there is a small amount of slack when at rest.

The idea is that you want the clutch fully engaged and that can only happen when the TOB is off of the fingers or only lightly touching them (and spinning as in OEM applications). If it is too tight, there may be enough pressure on the fingers to allow some slipping. This may correct itself as the friction plate wears down. Way too tight and the friction plate will be completely worn before you hit the sweet spot.

If there is too much slack, then you may have a lot of movement of the pedal before the clutch is fully disengaged. Way too much slack and your pedal may hit the floor before fully disengaged. Then you'll have a lot of trouble shifting unless you are rev matching on your shifts. This condition likely won't get better and will stall the engine as you brake to a stop.
 

Venom97

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Thats the way I have it set up. I just wanted to be sure..

I am still hearing the clicking sound sometimes with little pressure on the pedal. Can this be the TOB or maybe it touching some clutch fingers??
 

raw23062

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Im in the middle of this same delima, so I thought I'd chime in here to get some additional clarification....rather than starting ANOTHER thread about this topic. There seems to be alot of room between partially engaged and fully engaged, so my question is when letting the clutch up from the floor, when is it acceptable to start to feel the clutch engage? Seems like when I try to bring the engage point further from the floor, it makes the fully engage point way too high but when I adjust it down a little, the car will start to move ever so slightly just as you let up on the clutch pedal. Thoughts? I'm using the firewall adjuster....after reading, Im wondering if I have an adjustable cable as well....how would I know? Thanks!!
 

SnakeBit

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If you are hearing (and maybe feeling through the pedal) a {click}, then it could mean thet the quadrant is off center. The quadrant should be shimmed on both sides so the cable comes straight through the firewall and into the channel of the quadrant. Go to the hardware store and buy a few 1/2" washers. If they have different thickness washers, then buy 3 or 4 of each type. I also like to use at least 1 rubber washer from the plumbing section.

In addition to shims, check your quadrant. Most of the quadrants I've seen are pretty sharp on the inner edges of the channel. I like to hit them with a buffing wheel to soften those edges. If the cable isn't on center, it can chafe on the sharp edges and eventually break.

The {click} is from the cable not being centered. As you push in the pedal, the cable may ride up on the top edge. Asthe pedal is depressed more, the tention will cause it to fall down into the channel causing the click. Eventually, this WILL break the cable.
 

Venom97

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I took my car for a final ride in the late fall before I put it away. This seems to happen the last few times I went WOT in 1st gear. It wants to pop out of 1st gear. Is this a clutch adjustment problem? I will be bringing the car back out later this month.

Thanks
 

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