How-To: Lowering Springs on my 2012 Boss

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That Just Happened
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In order to correct the factory rake, we decided to install a set of BMR lowering springs on this 2012 Boss Mustang. This kit is not as aggressive as some, and still has a mind for performance. Unfortunately, it shipped without a single piece of paperwork, instructions, or even a sticker, so these steps are to the best of our knowledge and experience.

Experience necessary: Moderate technical knowledge
Time: 2-3 hours
Tools needed:
Ratchet
18mm Socket
15mm Socket
13mm Deep socket
10mm Socket
13/16 Deep socket
T40 Torx
18mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Interior clip popper
Spring compressor
Impact gun
Jack & Jack Stands or 2-post lift

Although we performed this install on a two-post lift, we are writing this how-to using a jack and jackstands. We started this install with the rear springs.

Rear bolt sizes:
Lug nuts 13/16
Panhard Bar 18mm
Shock 15mm
rear swaybar endlink 15mm
Bump stop T40 torx

1. Break rear lug nuts loose.
2. Working on a level and solid surface, jack the rear of the vehicle up, and place vehicle on jackstands. It is never a good idea to do work with just a jack supporting the car, as jacks have been known to collapse. Refer to the owner's manual for jacking points.
3. Remove the rear wheels.

i-2HC7WbL-L.jpg


4. Place jack under the center of the rear end, making sure that the jack is clear of the rear axle cover.

i-K6Zpjtc-XL.jpg


This figure illustrates the names and locations of the bolts removed in the following steps:

i-NRSShth-XL.jpg


5. Remove 18mm bolt from the panhard bar where it attaches to the axle tube.

i-d3gDnS2-L.jpg


6. Remove the 15mm bolts from the rear shocks, 1 per side.

i-D9b4sHG-L.jpg


7. Remove the 15mm bolts from the rear swaybar endlinks, 1 per side.

i-ZJnRd97-L.jpg


The swaybar will fall away as shown in the picture below.

i-4CSqZ3G-L.jpg


8. Lower the rear end with the jack until the springs can be removed.

i-H4NfK9N-L.jpg


Install the new springs.

9. Remove the T40 torx bolt holding each bump stop in place, 1 per side. Trim the bumpstop and reinstall.

i-5WP6fvh-L.jpg


i-8HX48ff-L.jpg


10. Reinstall the trimmed bumstops. Reinstall the shock bolts, rear swaybar endlink bolts, and panhard bar bolts removed in steps 5, 6, and 7.

i-xBJDLRR-L.jpg


Reinstall tires, lower car from jackstands. Torque wheels to 110 ft-lbs.

Front bolt sizes:
Upper swaybar endlink 18mm
Spindle 18mm
Strut upper mount 13mm
Brake line bracket 10mm

11. Break front lug nuts loose.

12. Working on a level and solid surface, jack the front of the vehicle up, and place vehicle on jack stands. It is never a good idea to do work with just a jack supporting the car, as jacks have been known to collapse. Refer to the owner's manual for jacking points.

13. Remove front wheels.

14. Remove the 18mm bolts from the upper swaybar endlink, 1 per side.

i-XFrCjWK-L.jpg


15. Remove the 10mm bolt from the brake line bracket, 1 per side. Remove the Christmas Tree clip holding the brake lines to the strut.

i-HsSdhkN-L.jpg


i-BDmQpbt-L.jpg


16. Remove the 18mm bolts holding the strut to the spindle, two per side. (So sorry, I seem to not have a picture of this step for some reason. The two bolts are located at the bottom of the strut and can be seen from the rear in the photo above.)

17. Remove the 13mm bolts at the top of the strut.

i-xkb62tN-L.jpg


18. Remove the strut assembly.

i-89MnJmg-L.jpg


19. Using a spring compressor, compress the spring until the top of the strut can be removed.
***CAUTION*** This is a two-piece assembly with an unsealed bearing inside. Be very careful when removing this to ensure you don't break the parks apart (they're only snapped together) and risk damaging the bearing or losing parts of it.

i-XH2sZQ8-L.jpg


20. Carefully release tension on the spring compressor. Remove factory spring and install aftermarket spring. Use caution when working with spring compressors, tensioned springs store a lot of energy and can do real damage if you aren't careful.

21. Trim the bumpstops. Install the spring sleeve from the factory spring onto the new spring.

i-kXVqs88-L.jpg


i-4wBNGzB-L.jpg


22. Reinstall the top strut assembly, tension the new spring with the spring compressor, and use the impact gun to tighten down the strut to the spring.

i-C44P3b8-L.jpg


23. Reinstall the strut assembly as removed in steps 16 and 17. Reattach the sway bar and brake line bracket removed in steps 14 and 15.

Reinstall the wheels. Lower vehicle to the ground and torque the lugnuts to 110 ft-lbs. Have the car professionally aligned as soon as possible to avoid premature tire wear.

RESULTS:

These measurements were taken with minimal driving after install. We expect more settling with driving.

i-77xXL57-L.jpg


This is after approx. 3 days of driving:
IMG8237-L.jpg


IMG8238-L.jpg
 

5 DOT 0

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Looks good! What are your impressions on the handling dynamics after the drop?
I'm interested in knowing this as well. Have you tracked your car with the stock and BMR springs? Ford Racing is coming out with Boss specific springs that will be track tested and lower the car a bit and I'll probably buy them.
 

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I haven't had the opportunity to track the car, but with some aggressive street driving on some nice sweepers and off-ramps I've noticed no real change in handling. The only difference I've noticed is that it's a little more jounce on the highway, but I may be able to tune that out with a shock adjustment. I considered holding off to do a timed comparison at a local track, but honestly my own driving skills are too inconsistent for that to be fair to the springs LOL. I hope to hit the track sometime in the next month and put this car through the paces though :beer:
 

burnin4

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it looks very nice :beer:

I just ordered a set of the Steeda springs today, cant wait to install them. Did you install a panhard bar? Thanks!
 

BlackNDecker

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Great post! I think the drop looks better than the Steeda springs because this retains the "raked" look rear to front.

Any info on the spring rates on these BMR springs?
 
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Great post! I think the drop looks better than the Steeda springs because this retains the "raked" look rear to front.

Any info on the spring rates on these BMR springs?

Not that I can find...Here's the link:

BMR 2011 Mustang GT Progressive Lowering Springs(1.25F/1.50R [SP009] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

2005 - 2012 Mustang GT | Lowering Springs | SP009 - Lowering Springs, Set Of 4, 1.25" Front And 1.5" Rear | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

Big thanks to Lethal Performance for there usual stellar service BTW :beer:
 

ViperBlueCobra

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chancejat

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so... you kept the stock panhard bar? i thought we had to change that when lowering??
 

BlackNDecker

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Meh....just noticed these are progressive...WTF? Thats like putting all-season tires on a Boss as an "upgrade." You can't serve two masters...you're either stiff for performance or you're plush for the potholes:nono:
 

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did you get an alignment after the springs were installed?

Yes I did, and everything was in the green :thumbsup:

Meh....just noticed these are progressive...WTF? Thats like putting all-season tires on a Boss as an "upgrade." You can't serve two masters...you're either stiff for performance or you're plush for the potholes:nono:

This car will be on the street 99.9% of the time; I drive it 50 miles a day to and from work. Were it not my DD I would have cared more for the performance of the springs, but as is looks and driveability won.

Certainly looks much better. That is a sweet spring compressor! Who makes it?

It certainly is; it belongs to a friend, so I'll have to find out.
 

96lasersnake

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Looks great. I have been back and forth on what springs to get for my car. Really dont want to lower a ton and have to deal with caster/camber and panhard bar and want to stay away from dragging the front splitter on everything. Mine is street driven as well. Did you think you need the adjustable pan hard bar? Do you scrape the splitter on everything now or no?
 

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Looks great. I have been back and forth on what springs to get for my car. Really dont want to lower a ton and have to deal with caster/camber and panhard bar and want to stay away from dragging the front splitter on everything. Mine is street driven as well. Did you think you need the adjustable pan hard bar? Do you scrape the splitter on everything now or no?
Then you should wait to see what Ford Racing comes up with on the springs. I'm told they are direct bolt on with no other mods needed and are suitable for both track and street. They will not slam the car.
 

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