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The Terminator
How-To
How to lower your clutch pedal for quicker, firmer, shifts and performance driving.
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<blockquote data-quote="exdeath" data-source="post: 8061178" data-attributes="member: 56343"><p>Throwing in my experiences with this.</p><p></p><p>I have a firewall adjuster and quadrant, adjustable cable, and LDC free play spring. I also have the MM pedal height adjuster.</p><p></p><p>First put the pedal where you want it with the height adjuster bracket. You can install the quadrant at the same time. There are two major issues to be concerned with when lowering the clutch pedal:</p><p></p><p>1) You are decreasing the amount of pedal travel available to fully disengage the clutch. Too much and you won't have enough room from rest height to floor to fully actuate the clutch from full on to full off. The pedal travel to clutch travel ratio can be decreased with a steeper ramping quadrant that takes up more cable with less distance (eg: the Steeda red "quick release" one).</p><p></p><p>2) The neutral start safety switch is a normally "pushed in" design activated from the top of the clutch pedal. That means as you push the pedal down, the pedal arm lifts off and away from the switch allowing it to pop out to the state that allows you to start the car. This means if you lower the pedal too much, it will lose contact with the switch and allow the car to be started in gear with the clutch fully engaged! </p><p></p><p>I used the adjustable cable to get it in the ball park under the car and the firewall adjuster to fine tune it.</p><p></p><p>With the car on a drive on lift and engine running, I got under the car with a pry bar on the release fork and observed when the TOB made contact (you can see and hear it spin up) and went back and forth to the firewall adjuster until I barely had to touch the fork to get it to contact, but definately not contacting when not touching it at all. If the firewall adjuster runs out of room, I reset it and take it out from the cable at the fork end, and start over.</p><p></p><p>To get it as close and tight as most people desire, just the cable tension is enough to pull the fork forward ever so slightly and engage the TOB into the clutch, while pushing back on the fork is enough to break TOB contact. We are talking paper thin gap between the TOB and pressure plate, with just the relaxation of the cable being enough to close the gap. This is why you're supposed to leave slack in the cable so this does not happen. Enter the LDC freeplay adjuster. It's nothing more than a spring between the fork end and bellhousing that pushes the fork away from the clutch, allowing you to eliminate that last bit of slack in the cable without the resulting cable tension relaxing and pulling the fork forward ever so slightly and rubbing the TOB.</p><p></p><p>Think that about covers everything anyone would want to know about the clutch system on these cars.</p><p></p><p>PS: if you are going to a clutch with more bite like a Spec 3+, make sure you have some urethane motor mounts ready to install in a couple months.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="exdeath, post: 8061178, member: 56343"] Throwing in my experiences with this. I have a firewall adjuster and quadrant, adjustable cable, and LDC free play spring. I also have the MM pedal height adjuster. First put the pedal where you want it with the height adjuster bracket. You can install the quadrant at the same time. There are two major issues to be concerned with when lowering the clutch pedal: 1) You are decreasing the amount of pedal travel available to fully disengage the clutch. Too much and you won't have enough room from rest height to floor to fully actuate the clutch from full on to full off. The pedal travel to clutch travel ratio can be decreased with a steeper ramping quadrant that takes up more cable with less distance (eg: the Steeda red "quick release" one). 2) The neutral start safety switch is a normally "pushed in" design activated from the top of the clutch pedal. That means as you push the pedal down, the pedal arm lifts off and away from the switch allowing it to pop out to the state that allows you to start the car. This means if you lower the pedal too much, it will lose contact with the switch and allow the car to be started in gear with the clutch fully engaged! I used the adjustable cable to get it in the ball park under the car and the firewall adjuster to fine tune it. With the car on a drive on lift and engine running, I got under the car with a pry bar on the release fork and observed when the TOB made contact (you can see and hear it spin up) and went back and forth to the firewall adjuster until I barely had to touch the fork to get it to contact, but definately not contacting when not touching it at all. If the firewall adjuster runs out of room, I reset it and take it out from the cable at the fork end, and start over. To get it as close and tight as most people desire, just the cable tension is enough to pull the fork forward ever so slightly and engage the TOB into the clutch, while pushing back on the fork is enough to break TOB contact. We are talking paper thin gap between the TOB and pressure plate, with just the relaxation of the cable being enough to close the gap. This is why you're supposed to leave slack in the cable so this does not happen. Enter the LDC freeplay adjuster. It's nothing more than a spring between the fork end and bellhousing that pushes the fork away from the clutch, allowing you to eliminate that last bit of slack in the cable without the resulting cable tension relaxing and pulling the fork forward ever so slightly and rubbing the TOB. Think that about covers everything anyone would want to know about the clutch system on these cars. PS: if you are going to a clutch with more bite like a Spec 3+, make sure you have some urethane motor mounts ready to install in a couple months. [/QUOTE]
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How-To
How to lower your clutch pedal for quicker, firmer, shifts and performance driving.
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