How to lower your clutch pedal for quicker, firmer, shifts and performance driving.

wwmost

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man i wish i knew what the heck i was readingg. my clutch pedel is so long in my gt. is this the same for gt's and cobras? this seems pretty complicated, is it hard to install all these items?
 

Tedisky

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LargeOrangeFont said:
Make sure you can bang all the gears at WOT and you should be fine. My clutch starts to grab less than an inch off the floor.
I will check it at WOT. My also seems to grab really low.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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wwmost said:
man i wish i knew what the heck i was readingg. my clutch pedel is so long in my gt. is this the same for gt's and cobras? this seems pretty complicated, is it hard to install all these items?


Yes, all of the above should work for you. It is not too hard to do. Stick your head under the dash and check out the clutch pedal. Hopefully it will make more sence.
 

m99tcobra

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i have a 99 cobra it had a stock adjuster,quadrant, stock clutch and stock cable. I bought a ldc freeplay kit, fiore firewall adjuster and a steeda quick release quadrant. I installed it all as describe in this thread and modified the stock cable peice as in the CORRECT way picture. once everything was buttoned up i had to screw the adjuster all the way(clockwise) into the base in order for the pedal to have a small amount of slack. im pretty sure its the original 80k mile clutch and i am thinking since the less wear on a clutch and the whether its a stock clutch or an aftermarket clutch makes for a variable in deciding to modify the cable one way or the other. Once i modified the cable as in the INCORRECT way picture i had room to adjust the cable to near the middle way on the firewall adjuster.
i didnt buy the pedal height adjuster but with the CORRECT way i wouldnt have been able to use it cause i couldnt put any slack in the cable.
This is a great thread i just wanted to let people know that some will need to modify cable spacer differently.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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i have a 99 cobra it had a stock adjuster,quadrant, stock clutch and stock cable. I bought a ldc freeplay kit, fiore firewall adjuster and a steeda quick release quadrant. I installed it all as describe in this thread and modified the stock cable peice as in the CORRECT way picture. once everything was buttoned up i had to screw the adjuster all the way(clockwise) into the base in order for the pedal to have a small amount of slack. im pretty sure its the original 80k mile clutch and i am thinking since the less wear on a clutch and the whether its a stock clutch or an aftermarket clutch makes for a variable in deciding to modify the cable one way or the other. Once i modified the cable as in the INCORRECT way picture i had room to adjust the cable to near the middle way on the firewall adjuster.
i didnt buy the pedal height adjuster but with the CORRECT way i wouldnt have been able to use it cause i couldnt put any slack in the cable.
This is a great thread i just wanted to let people know that some will need to modify cable spacer differently.

The pedal height adjuster would have given you more slack in the cable, then you would have needed to turn the adjuster counter clockwise (away from the firewall) to get out.
 

m99tcobra

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hey. the way i see it the pedal height adjuster doesnt give slack, it takes up slack. there has to be slack to be able to use the pedal height adjuster.

what clutch do you have?
 

riored94cobra

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Will the LDC freeplay kit work with a 94-95 clutch pedal assembly? I know ford list two different clutch cables between 94-95 and 96-04.
 

Evil Bender

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Save your self the money and got a spring from your local Hardware store. One just big enough to go around your clutch cable and about 2 1/2 inches long
 

03snkvert

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With my pedal lowering kit I couldn't get enough throw in the pedal for good shift, without having the bearing riding on the (EDIT)Pressure Plate Fingers
 
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03CobraVertGrey

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I had to call SVT on this a year or so ago and was told that the TOB is supposed to be in contact with the flywheel at all times. That is the way it was designed, even with foot off the pedal.
 

Hmbre97

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Hmmm, I'm thinking if your TOB is touching your flywheel, you have bigger issues that cannot be addressed in this thread...
 

About2bite

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If your tob is riding on the pressure plate fingers you will go through tobs like crazy, there should be a 1/8 -1/16" gap between the two when the clutch is engaged. You can pull the cover plate off the bell housing to make sure the tob is not riding on the p/p.

Great write up, this is a must do mod for most of the members on here. Makes adjusting the clutch so easy.

Hmmm, I'm thinking if your TOB is touching your flywheel, you have bigger issues that cannot be addressed in this thread...

:lol: I have to agree with you on that one
 

SouthTXSnake

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If your tob is riding on the pressure plate fingers you will go through tobs like crazy, there should be a 1/8 -1/16" gap between the two when the clutch is engaged. You can pull the cover plate off the bell housing to make sure the tob is not riding on the p/p.

Great write up, this is a must do mod for most of the members on here. Makes adjusting the clutch so easy.



:lol: I have to agree with you on that one


Getting ready to do the installation but have a question.....will I need a lift to check my adjustments from underneath the car. All I have is access to some rhino ramps. Will the ramps work for me?
 

Jefe

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Do you have a jack/jack stands as well? The ramps will make it real tight under the car. But jack it up once you're on the ramps and support it with the jack stands and you should be able to get back there
 

SouthTXSnake

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Do you have a jack/jack stands as well? The ramps will make it real tight under the car. But jack it up once you're on the ramps and support it with the jack stands and you should be able to get back there

I have a set but I'll need to purchase another. Shouldn't be a problem though. I'll eventually need them for other mods. Maybe I should do the subframe connectors first then it will be "safer" to get under the car. I know there's a writeup out there on where to put the jack stands. I need the search button back!!!

Thanks.
 

03snkvert

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I ended up taking this kit off because I couldn't get the TOB to not ride on the PRESSURE PLATE fingers. If I did get it adjusted off of the fingers, I couldn't get a long enough throw for proper dis-engagement.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I have a set but I'll need to purchase another. Shouldn't be a problem though. I'll eventually need them for other mods. Maybe I should do the subframe connectors first then it will be "safer" to get under the car. I know there's a writeup out there on where to put the jack stands. I need the search button back!!!

Thanks.

The rear subframe and K member where it bolts to the unibody behind the front wheels are fine jackstand support points.
 

vipergts281

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I ended up taking this kit off because I couldn't get the TOB to not ride on the PRESSURE PLATE fingers. If I did get it adjusted off of the fingers, I couldn't get a long enough throw for proper dis-engagement.
I never had this kit.

But my TOB won't come off the PP fingers either! I have a Fiore quadrant and FW adjuster.

Anyone know what to do?
 

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