There are a few problems that can occur when you lower your clutch pedal and use the OEM cable.
This is a rundown of the parts you will need, and the changes in the install you will need to make to make it all work.
Parts List:
MM clutch pedal height adjustment kit $20
Firewall adjuster of your choice - You will want one that uses at least 2 screws to bolt to the firewall. I recommend Fiore, but I used a UPR Extreme Double lock, which works, but is a pain to install. $30-$50
Steeda quick release quadrant (these used to be red like the one pictured but are now silver and NOT anodized.) This is absolutely necessary. Use other quadrants at your own risk, as they may not work. $35
LDC clutch free play correction kit. $15
Plastic washers in varying thicknesses with 1\2 ID (OD doesn’t matter). I went to Lowe's for these. $3-$5
If you already have an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster installed and are just trying to lower the pedal, you will also need a NEW OEM clutch cable unless you miraculously saved the parts.
Quadrant install -
Remove all the OEM plastic crap as in the instructions. Once that is removed you will need to shim the back of the quadrant with plastic washers as shown in these pictures. If you do not do this the quadrant will bind on the rear shaft and cause noise and extra wear. You will need to trim some of the washers in a D shape, and\or make their OD smaller to get them to fit flat. A dremel or bench grinder will work, or you can trim them with some snips. As you can see I used a combination of spacers to get the quadrant fit so it rotates smoothly and does not float on the rear shaft.
The aluminum spacer and thin plastic washer in the foreground come with the quadrant. If you are unsure as to what plastic spacers to get, you can use the one in the Steeda quadrant for reference.
MM pedal height adjustment kit installs normally. I adjusted the clutch pedal 1\8 inch or so above the brake pedal.
Firewall adjuster installs normally.
Clutch cable modification -
This is critical to get this to work correctly. If you modify the cable per the instructions, the valve cover can hit the cable and firewall adjuster and throw off your clutch adjustment under high loads. Here is a picture of WRONG way.
That was my OLD setup, and OLD firewall adjuster. It was very inconsistent because the valve cover would hit the cable and the adjuster, loosening the adjuster from the firewall, and hitting the cable, not allowing me to get into 3rd gear under hard acceleration.
Here is the modification to get it to work CORRECTLY.
Here is how to do it.
Take a small, flathead screwdriver and gently start prying up the barbs on the locking washer. Once you do 4 or 5 is should come off easily. Do this carefully, as you don't want to break the center flange on the cable. Remove the large metal washer behind the lock washer.
Now you have to take a dremel or shears and cut off the plastic pins. Be careful as this will be the surface that touches the firewall adjuster so you want to keep the surface flat after you remove the pins. I used a cutoff wheel on a dremel for this.
Once you are done, with the clutch cable sitting squarely against the firewall adjuster, you may want to modify the clutch cable for more room around the valve cover by putting a flat spotting the round flange. I have not yet done this in the pictures.
From here you can continue as normal, and install the LDC free play correction kit.
You can button everything up and this is what you get.
Adjustment - You will now have very little free play. I have maybe 1\4 inch of free travel before I can feel tension. The clutch starts to grab about an inch off the floor. It is critical that the clutch is adjusted properly. The total clutch travel is now about 50% of stock, so you have very little room for error. If it is too loose, you won't be able to get into gears when the clutch gets hot, and if it is too tight, you will kill the TOB and the clutch could start slipping with you foot off the pedal.
Ashley
This is a rundown of the parts you will need, and the changes in the install you will need to make to make it all work.
Parts List:
MM clutch pedal height adjustment kit $20
Firewall adjuster of your choice - You will want one that uses at least 2 screws to bolt to the firewall. I recommend Fiore, but I used a UPR Extreme Double lock, which works, but is a pain to install. $30-$50
Steeda quick release quadrant (these used to be red like the one pictured but are now silver and NOT anodized.) This is absolutely necessary. Use other quadrants at your own risk, as they may not work. $35
LDC clutch free play correction kit. $15
Plastic washers in varying thicknesses with 1\2 ID (OD doesn’t matter). I went to Lowe's for these. $3-$5
If you already have an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster installed and are just trying to lower the pedal, you will also need a NEW OEM clutch cable unless you miraculously saved the parts.
Quadrant install -
Remove all the OEM plastic crap as in the instructions. Once that is removed you will need to shim the back of the quadrant with plastic washers as shown in these pictures. If you do not do this the quadrant will bind on the rear shaft and cause noise and extra wear. You will need to trim some of the washers in a D shape, and\or make their OD smaller to get them to fit flat. A dremel or bench grinder will work, or you can trim them with some snips. As you can see I used a combination of spacers to get the quadrant fit so it rotates smoothly and does not float on the rear shaft.
The aluminum spacer and thin plastic washer in the foreground come with the quadrant. If you are unsure as to what plastic spacers to get, you can use the one in the Steeda quadrant for reference.
MM pedal height adjustment kit installs normally. I adjusted the clutch pedal 1\8 inch or so above the brake pedal.
Firewall adjuster installs normally.
Clutch cable modification -
This is critical to get this to work correctly. If you modify the cable per the instructions, the valve cover can hit the cable and firewall adjuster and throw off your clutch adjustment under high loads. Here is a picture of WRONG way.
That was my OLD setup, and OLD firewall adjuster. It was very inconsistent because the valve cover would hit the cable and the adjuster, loosening the adjuster from the firewall, and hitting the cable, not allowing me to get into 3rd gear under hard acceleration.
Here is the modification to get it to work CORRECTLY.
Here is how to do it.
Take a small, flathead screwdriver and gently start prying up the barbs on the locking washer. Once you do 4 or 5 is should come off easily. Do this carefully, as you don't want to break the center flange on the cable. Remove the large metal washer behind the lock washer.
Now you have to take a dremel or shears and cut off the plastic pins. Be careful as this will be the surface that touches the firewall adjuster so you want to keep the surface flat after you remove the pins. I used a cutoff wheel on a dremel for this.
Once you are done, with the clutch cable sitting squarely against the firewall adjuster, you may want to modify the clutch cable for more room around the valve cover by putting a flat spotting the round flange. I have not yet done this in the pictures.
From here you can continue as normal, and install the LDC free play correction kit.
You can button everything up and this is what you get.
Adjustment - You will now have very little free play. I have maybe 1\4 inch of free travel before I can feel tension. The clutch starts to grab about an inch off the floor. It is critical that the clutch is adjusted properly. The total clutch travel is now about 50% of stock, so you have very little room for error. If it is too loose, you won't be able to get into gears when the clutch gets hot, and if it is too tight, you will kill the TOB and the clutch could start slipping with you foot off the pedal.
Ashley
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