How to Install KB Boost a Pump

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swallent

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I decided to document my KB boost a pump install. its very easy and straight forward.

Step 1: Remove the liner from the Trunk top area and left side wheel well as well as the area in the front area closest to where the trunk latches. Then locate the connector that hooks to the fuel inertia switch as shown here
step1as.jpg

step1zr.jpg


Step 2: Unplug the connector from the fuel inertia switch. it should have 2 wires in it a green and yellow one and a pink and brown one
step2p.jpg


Step 3: Using an exacto knife or tape removal tool of your preference strip away the tape protecting the wires to expose more of them.
step3u.jpg


Step 4: We are after the Pink and Brown wire Cut it in the middle as shown here. we are cutting it in the middle because we need to connect to both sides of the cuts. so cut and strip the wires as shown below. when you strip a good amount as the KB wires are thick and need to be wrapped around a couple times for good connection. pics below
step4c.jpg

step5l.jpg



Step 5: Twist the Red line with the inline fuse in it onto the side of the brown and pink wire you stipped thats closest to the connector (In the first pic below Ive put an arrow where the inline fuse wire should go). Twist the other red line without the inline fuse to the other end of the brown and pink wire and solder them both together as shown here
step6o.jpg

step7uc.jpg


Ill continue in the next post
 
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swallent

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Location
Southgate, MI
Step 6: Wrap each of your soldered ends with a good amount of electrical tape and then fold them away from each other and wrap entire line in electrical tape as well and plug the connector back into the fuel inertia switch:
step8f.jpg

step12b.jpg


Step 7: Next onto the ground wire its the solid black wire that needs to have the eye connector crimped onto it. its not wrapped in the bundled wire that is used for the boost sensor(more on that later). You need to create a clean area near the BAP thats all metal and has no paint at all on it. I found a hidden area and used 400 grit sand paper to sand away a clean spot. so Crimp the wire...sand and use one of the self taping sheet metal screws to secure the ground:
step10a.jpg

step11.jpg


Step 8 mach up and mount the box for the BAP. I mounted mine using 2 of the self taping sheet metal screws and put it behind the left wheel well cover thinggy in the trunk liner. you cant see any of it except the control knob.

Step 9: Locate a place to mount the control Knob and run the RCA looking wire to it. I chose to mount mine on one of my SUB boxes in the trunk so no one would mess with it. here is a pic
sep12i.jpg


Step 10: The boost sensor. I did some reading on this and even called KB tech. the sensor is supposed to detect boost and activate the BAP. I dont trust that setup so I chose to short out the other wire set. what this does is it always has the BAP on. I called Matt at KB tech line and asked him if this was ok and he said it wasnt necessary to have it on all the time but would not hurt anything. I guess its purely preferance. so what did I do? I took the 2 wires....twisted them together and screwed on a orang wire nut and hid the wire roll. I figured even if this burns out a $150 fuel pump every 2-3 years its still better than not having the BAP work cause of a failed sensor and toating my motor.

So thats it. go start your car and check it out. you will now if the bap is working because as you turn up the BAP while the car is running it makes a humming noise and you will hear your fuel pump whine higher.

hope this helped some folks out. cheers
 
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