HOW TO. HID G35 Retrofit

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03LCalgaryAB

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USE INSTRUCTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES DONE TO YOURSELF OR YOUR PROPERTY.

Supplies Needed.

G35 bi-xenon projectors (Cheaper). Or which ever you prefer.
G35xenon.jpg
: $50+ on ebay

Ballasts w/ igniters
Ballast.jpg
: $100 on ebay

9007 series wire harness
wireharness.jpg
: $30 on ebay

Stock headlights or aftermarket.
headlight.jpg
: $100 on ebay

Dremel style rotary tool w/ assorted bits.
Cutting disc
Sanding disc
Drill bit
P1020467.jpg

Respirator (optional)

Power Drill w/ a 3/16th bit suitable for aluminum.

Philips (+) & Flat (-) head screw driver.

Hex screw driver (not sure on size, only needed on stock headlights)

8 x 10-24 x 3” machine screws.
Atleast 8, 10-24 machine screw nuts w/ locking rings (sold separately) (Home depot)
8x 10-24 nylon locking machine screw nuts
8x metal washers
2x rubber washers Total: $20 using SS hardware

Scissors

Zip Ties

Silicone gloves

Wrench + 3/8th socket for machine nuts

HVAC silver tape (optional)

Double sided tape

Electrical Tape

Assorted Male/Female spade connectors

JB Weld. (I used quick weld as it is for a light duty job.)

Tube of clear silicone.


1. Start with the headlights. They must be opened up. (Tools required :eek:ven, flat head screw driver, Philips driver (Hex driver if stock), gloves optional)
• Remove the 4 metal COLOR="Lime"]clips[/COLOR around the headlight & the screw adjuster tabs, these are held in with either a philips or hex screw.
• Preheat your oven to approx 200*f and place headlights inside for roughly 15-20 mins. (careful headlight will be hot, but not too hot to touch with bare hands)
• Once removed, using a flat (-) head screw driver, gently pry apart the lens from the housing. When doing this, be careful not to stretch the adhesive all over the inner chrome reflector.
• Once open, remove the reflector dome (covers light bulb). It is held in with 1 philips screw.

headlight1.jpg




2. G35 projector. Some trimming has to be done with the dremel. (Tools required: Dremel with cutting disc, sanding disc, black marker, (+) Philips screw driver) Be sure to Label LEFT and RIGHT.
• The projector as a whole will not fit in the housing so excess material must be trimmed (Green lines).
G35xenon1.jpg

• Remove the bulb and lens 1st by removing the 4 brass screws. (circled red)
• Using the cutting disc remove the side supports on the projector lens body and the above tab on the lens body.(see above pic, Green lines)
Trimmings1.jpg

• Now 4 holes must be drilled in the corner of each projector. When drilling these holes be sure to allow enough room for the 10-24 machine screws & 10-24 nuts. (optional: you may choose to use the 4 holes where the brass screws are, so drilling may not be req'd)
G35XENON2.jpg

• When drilling the bottom 2 holes, make sure to drill from the back, as there are brass straps connected to the hi/low motor which moves a metal shield up and down. This is the hi/low beam function and you do not want a nut/bolt to get in its path.

3. Trimming out the back of the headlight to allow room for the projector. (Tools required: Dremel with cutting disc, and sanding disc, black marker, Respirator).
• This part requires lots of trial and error. You want to outline a rough outline of where you to trim.
Headlight2.jpg

• Don the respirator (optional)
• Cut away a large enough area using the cut off disc so that the projector will fit into. You want to keep the hi/low motor inside the housing so it remains water proof.
• At this point you want the back of the projector to sit as flush as possible, Being oval in shape it’s a pita. The tighter the fit the easier it will be to seal.
G35topview1.jpg

• Here is where trial and error begins. Using the sanding bit, slowly clean away the sides so you have a tight fit. The sanding attachment eats away at the plastic and works very well.
• You will also need to sand down the “nub” on the inside of the headlight.
Headlight3.jpg


4. Drilling 4 holes in the headlight to mount the projector. (Tools: Dremel with drill bit, Philips driver, 4x 10-24 3” machine screws, lock washers, 4 machine nuts)
*(At this point you may want to have the wire harness hooked up so u can mock up the projector inside the housing, with the lights on you will get a rough idea on where the G35 projector should be placed)
• Reassemble the housing with the lens using the 4 brass screws. From part 2.
• Take 4, 10-24 3” machine screws and insert into the holes you drilled. Fasten it using a lock washer and a 10-24 machine nut.
G35topview2-1.jpg

• Optional: using the HVAC silver tape, you can tape off the back where the gaps are. This will prevent light to leak.
• Now once in place, line it up (eyeballing it) with the hole u cut into the housing. Should line up sort of like this when done.
Headlight4.jpg

• Once done, using the top right screw. (I believe it makes contact with the housing first) scratch the chrome reflector. This is where you want to drill your 1st hole.
• Next is the top left screw to make contact. Do this for all 4 holes. You may need to widen the holes to allow an easier fit. Should be a snug fit so that it will stay in its place when moved around. This will help with aiming.

AT THIS POINT, WE ARE DONE WITH THE LENS STUFF. ONTO THE WIRING TO FIRE UP THE LIGHTS TO AIM.

5. Wiring up the hi/low connectors. (tool: Spade connectors, electrical tape, Harness)
• Depending on whom you purchase your G35 projectors from, they may include the factory hi/low harness.
HiLowHarness1.jpg

• I shorted one out so I decided to scrap them and just use spade connectors. When connected, you can see that the black wire is ground. If you choose to chop them be sure to label the corresponding red wire ground as well. Strip the wires and crimp.
• After crimping, wrap all connectors with electrical tape. Or heatshrink tubging if you choose.
• If you are going to connect the factory harness to the purchased harness. You must make sure neg (-) is connected to neg (-) and pos (-) to pos (-)
hilowharness2.jpg

• The body of the G35 projector also needs to be grounded. The Yellow wire needs to be grounded as well.
G35ground.jpg

• MAKE SURE TO LEAVE ENOUGH SLACK SO WIRES PROTRUDE ATLEAST 5-6 INCHES FROM HEADLIGHT OPENING, THIS WILL MAKE IT EASEIR TO PLUG IN YOUR LIGHTS!!!


6. Wiring was quite simple (if you purchase a wire harness). You can visit hidplanet.com to make your own. (Tools: wire harness, ballasts, silicone, double sided tape, zip ties)
• I used a Wire harness made by www.izntrbl.com (gave me permission to spread his name around). It simply plugs into your stock 9007 socket. Only 1 is used to activate the relay. I chose to use the passenger’s side as it was closest to the battery. Just tape off the driver’s side.
wireharness.jpg

• When it arrived the 9007 connector is not connected to any wires. This is to allow for both pos+ or neg- switched systems. Ours are pos+ switched so they must be wired as so.
9007connector.jpg

• The red wire with inline fuses are connected directly to the +red terminal on the battery.
• The 9006 go the ballasts. And the ring terminal is grounded right behind the headlight.
Groundpt1.jpg

• I mounted the ballast using double sided tape. If your aiming 1 light at a time, leave the other ballast disconnected!!!.
• Optional: I replaced the inline fuses with weatherproof ones and silicone sealed the 9007 & 9006 connector.
weatherprooffuses-1.jpg

• I ran the wires under the radiator shroud and zip tied everything out of the way.


7. Now that the harness and ballasts are wired up its time to aim the projectors (tools: flat wall, 3/8 socket + wrench, 4x 10-24 nylon lock nuts per light, 4x washers per light)
• So hopefully by now you have the projector inside the headlight housing and the wire harness in place. Place the mock up back into your truck, connect the igniter (part that goes from ballast to HID bulb) and turn on your headlights.
• Using a wall approx 20ft away, try to aim them so they are not too high and that both driver/passenger light are symmertrical. Aim by moving the projector within the housing up/down, left/right. Mine still need to be adjusted. Read here for more aiming guidelines. (http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17073&highlight=aiming) .
• Once done, try not to move the projector, remove the headlight from the truck w/ the G35 projector inside.
• Fasten the G35 projector to the housing using the washers and nylon lock nuts. You may need nuts on both sides of the headlight housing to pinch it.
BackHeadlight1.jpg

• If it is off a little bit, you should be able to use the factory adjustment screws. I haven’t done this yet.

8. Once everything is secure, it is time to seal it up and put it back together. (tools: silicone, JB Weld, silicone glove, Rubber washers, scissors, + Philips driver)
• Using the silicone, fill up all cracks where the bolts protrude through. Apply generously as you do not want your headlights to fog up. Seal around the projector and the hole you cut out as well.
• Smooth out the silicone, you can use your finger (easier if you lick, or wet your ringer first) and push it into the cracks. Wipe excess.
• Let it dry overnight
• Now using the JB quick weld. Mix Steel and hardener together (50/50 mix) and apply a coat over the back end of the G35 projector. You can JB weld all the nuts and bolts if you choose. Use Hand + rubber glove to do so.
• Let the JB harden. Takes approx 15-20 min’s using quick weld.
• Now take the factory headlight lens, place it back onto the housing leaving a small gap around the perimeter (where the lens meets the body). Fill this crack with silicone and press lens back into housing.
• Wipe off excess silicone (a wet clothe works well), and replace the 4 metal clips from the beginning. This will help hold the lens together as it dries. Let it dry over night
• Put the 3 screw adjusters back onto the factory housing
Headlighttabs.jpg

• With the HID bulb inserted into the projector, looking at the back of the G35 projector you will see some space between the bulb and the projector body. I cut up the rubber washer to fit inside the bulb opening and around the bulb to further water proof it.
rubberwasher.jpg


9. Everything should now be in place to put lights back into the truck.
• Bring your headlight assembly up to the stock location.
• Connect all wires that need to be to the G35 projector. This includes Yellow ground wire, Igniter to the bulb. Hi/Low Harness.
P1020462.jpg

• Place headlight back into the truck and now you are done.

10. Optional stuff you may want to consider.
• You can trim a bezel that goes around the light surround for a more custom look,
• Disable your Daytime running lights as running DRL will shorten bulb/ballast life.
• Disable the flashing headlights when locking your truck.
• You can purchase higher Kelvin (K) rated bulbs for a bluer color. Higher the Kelvin, lower the lumens (light output)

Here are some night shots. As you can see, the passenger side light is aimed a little too high. Z cutoffs on both lights should be close to the same height.
P1020450.jpg

With high beams on, it lights up the houses in the background.
P1020451.jpg

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES DONE TO YOURSELF OR YOUR PROPERTY. USE INSTRUCTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
:beer:
 
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