So we all want to run a 15" drag setup on our IRS equipped terminators, either for the badass look or to run the best times at the track with an IRS friendly tire. Unfortunately, with the comfortable suspension comes a few cons. One of them happens to be the inability to fit a 15" wheel without grinding on the irs knuckle, tie rod, and the cobra brakes. I'm going to make a descriptive write-up on how to do this correctly.
Keep a note: ALL WHEELS MAY BE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT. My two rear Weld Racing RTS rubbed more in different places. So do not attempt to grind both sides the same WITHOUT test fitting the wheels!
Tools needed:
1.) Work gloves
2.) Safety glasses
3.) Grinder (thick metal grinding wheel)
4.) Jack
5.) (2) Jack stands
6.) Wheels/tires
7.) Lug nuts
8.) Impact wrench/ cross lug bar
9.) OPTIONAL: MM stainless steel brake line kit (MMBK9R)
Directions:
1. Begin by placing the car in a safe, well lit ground leveled area. You're going to need space on both sides of the car.
2. Raise the rear of the car and set the jack stands in place. I placed mine on the rear Full length subframe connectors. Make sure wheels are at least 6 in. off the ground.
3. Remove wheels and tires.
4 . Test fit your 15" wheels.
*Remember: You must mount the lugs in order to get the wheel correctly centered.
5. Check from behind the behind the wheel, in the barrel to see what places are rubbing. Take a picture or mark the area with a piece of chalk.
*This is the stock clearance of a 15x10 weld rts Wheel.
6. Put on your gloves, eye safety wear, and some long sleeves & pants.
7. Begin grinding little at a time. Keep test fitting wheels after every 5 minutes of grinding.
*Note: You DO NOT want to take too much material off of the tie rod or knuckle. It could be extremely dangerous if it were to break at high speeds. Never heard of this happening, but just a fair warning.
8. Check the clearance between the wheel lip and the brake banjo bolt. If it grinds, you could add a wheel spacer to clear, or install MM brake lines with the low profile banjo bolt.
*My wheel still grinded against the mm bolt a little, so I grinded it down a tiny bit.
9. Repeat the grinding process until wheel clears the tie rod/ irs knuckle and the banjo bolt and brake bleeder.
*Note: clearance changes when car is on load! It may clear when on stands, but that could change once car is lowered to the ground!
10. If you installed the Maximum Motorsports Stainless steel brake line kit (MMBK9R), don't forget to bleed your brake system.
11. Once clear, mount wheels and tires and lower the car. Now DOUBLE CHECK the clearance from the back of the wheels (wheel barrel). I find the best way to do this is flash a light through the front of the wheel and see if it beams through past the tie rod and knuckle.
12. If the tie rod is touching once on load, take note where, and raise again and grind a bit more.
13. Mount those babies once done and enjoy the mean setup. With a bias ply, be ready to cut some nice 60' safely.
Thanks and hope this helped.
*More pics uploaded in comments.
Keep a note: ALL WHEELS MAY BE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT. My two rear Weld Racing RTS rubbed more in different places. So do not attempt to grind both sides the same WITHOUT test fitting the wheels!
Tools needed:
1.) Work gloves
2.) Safety glasses
3.) Grinder (thick metal grinding wheel)
4.) Jack
5.) (2) Jack stands
6.) Wheels/tires
7.) Lug nuts
8.) Impact wrench/ cross lug bar
9.) OPTIONAL: MM stainless steel brake line kit (MMBK9R)
Directions:
1. Begin by placing the car in a safe, well lit ground leveled area. You're going to need space on both sides of the car.
2. Raise the rear of the car and set the jack stands in place. I placed mine on the rear Full length subframe connectors. Make sure wheels are at least 6 in. off the ground.
3. Remove wheels and tires.
4 . Test fit your 15" wheels.
*Remember: You must mount the lugs in order to get the wheel correctly centered.
5. Check from behind the behind the wheel, in the barrel to see what places are rubbing. Take a picture or mark the area with a piece of chalk.
*This is the stock clearance of a 15x10 weld rts Wheel.
6. Put on your gloves, eye safety wear, and some long sleeves & pants.
7. Begin grinding little at a time. Keep test fitting wheels after every 5 minutes of grinding.
*Note: You DO NOT want to take too much material off of the tie rod or knuckle. It could be extremely dangerous if it were to break at high speeds. Never heard of this happening, but just a fair warning.
8. Check the clearance between the wheel lip and the brake banjo bolt. If it grinds, you could add a wheel spacer to clear, or install MM brake lines with the low profile banjo bolt.
*My wheel still grinded against the mm bolt a little, so I grinded it down a tiny bit.
9. Repeat the grinding process until wheel clears the tie rod/ irs knuckle and the banjo bolt and brake bleeder.
*Note: clearance changes when car is on load! It may clear when on stands, but that could change once car is lowered to the ground!
10. If you installed the Maximum Motorsports Stainless steel brake line kit (MMBK9R), don't forget to bleed your brake system.
11. Once clear, mount wheels and tires and lower the car. Now DOUBLE CHECK the clearance from the back of the wheels (wheel barrel). I find the best way to do this is flash a light through the front of the wheel and see if it beams through past the tie rod and knuckle.
12. If the tie rod is touching once on load, take note where, and raise again and grind a bit more.
13. Mount those babies once done and enjoy the mean setup. With a bias ply, be ready to cut some nice 60' safely.
Thanks and hope this helped.
*More pics uploaded in comments.
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