How To: Eliminate Boost Drop Off (eliminate boost solenoid)
- Thread starter metaman
- Start date
Did this last night. The boost definitely comes on sooner. At the lower RPMs it will show 5-6lbs of boost, then in the higher RPMs peg the needle. Before it would just hit a point where it went from 0 to pegged with no in between.
I just done this mod. Before the boost was like it was on a switch, so was the traction on or off. Now rolling on the pedal works alot better. I can control the tire spin more. feels almost like a N/A engine.
This is a great guide. It turns out I had a bad 02 sensor and was not related to this mod at all:rockon:
I have been doing some research what I have found... this mod is basically doing what older factory Eaton cars have always done. Older cars didn't have a solenoid; they only used the vacume/boost line attached to the boost actuator valve. My question is if the solenoid is turned off in the tune wouldn't that cause the same problems that the old mod did? Because there is nothing to open the valve under low boost?
I have had this mod for about 5 months now and nothing has changed for the worse. My boost comes on much stronger at less throttle than it did before and seems to pull harder for longer up top. I did some runs on some back roads a few months ago to check temperatures and they all stayed within a reasonable range (did about 2-3 back to back 2nd through 4th gear pulls). I have yet to check A/F ratios but I have recently put an o/r pipe on w/o a retune so I'll be checking those today! My only concern is since the tube (the one facing towards the driver) on the actuator that releases the boost is now open to the atmosphere should I be concerned that the rubber diaphragm will crack because of moisture?
Not because of moisture, but because dirt and oil vapor will inevitably be sucked into the atmosphere side of the diaphragm and may cause it to fail prematurely. Leave the line to the metered intake air port connected.
If you don't like the AC shutting off at part throttle, you can re-use the vacuum reservoir and check valve take off the boost dump solenoid vacuum inlet. Hook the flow direction side of the valve (that had the "U" vacuum line on it) to the red vacuum line, and the HVAC and reservoir to the other ports. Your HVAC system will operate full time 9except the AC compressor, which is controlled by the PCM).
Would I be able to do this without a tune ?
which mod hurts your car which is better .Is the llink to rpm the correct way or is the RPM link the way that hurts your car i bought my car used and wanna know if it has the mod and if it is the safe one or not
BY RPM i am meaning the links to there website detailing how to do mod
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Hmm. Looking through this mod, makes me wonder. Since I don't have a cobra, just the engine and trans with PCM, I am missing a lot of sensors, and parts overall, like the vacuum reservoir in the OP. Also, I have no IAT sensor in the zip tube. Just a blue plug apparently. Also, the MAP sensor is plugged in and reads vacuum and boost, even though I'm only seeing 5 psi total, with a 2.81" pulley and no belt slip, with Steed idlers in place.
With the MAP sensor, on the back lip of the blower, im getting vac readings to the pcm, but no iat2 temp readings. I have a massive aftermarket intercooler, a type 100 from Frozenboost.com, mounted up front behind the grille. We had to build our own wiring harness pcm side, so I'm wondering if perhaps the pcm is shutting down power or boost, basically, because it is reading iat 1 and 2 temps at -40f?
With the MAP sensor, on the back lip of the blower, im getting vac readings to the pcm, but no iat2 temp readings. I have a massive aftermarket intercooler, a type 100 from Frozenboost.com, mounted up front behind the grille. We had to build our own wiring harness pcm side, so I'm wondering if perhaps the pcm is shutting down power or boost, basically, because it is reading iat 1 and 2 temps at -40f?
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