HOW TO CHANGE: Stock Fuel System to Return Style Fuel System

RazorGTP

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SEE POST #2





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As the topic states, I have not seen any write ups on this and was wondering if someone who has done this before could take some time to make this write-up. Also suggest what type and brand of parts to buy.

I hope someone can rise to this challenge because a lot of people will benefit from this. I want to do this over the winter also. :beer:
 
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2001Snake

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Its pretty simple actually.

#1 remove every bit of the fuel system on the car exept the fpdm

#2 install return style fuel rails

#3 run feed fuel line and return line from tank to rails

#4 the fuel filter will mount in the same spot as the stock fuel filter

#5 i suggest using the fore precision hat with either dual or tripple 255lph walbro pumps
install them now.

#6 the dual hat will have 2 red,3 blk and 1 yellow wire to hook up the power to the pumps. The tripple hat will have 3 red,4 blk and 1 yellow wire

#7 the fpdm (fuel pump driver module) will no longer be used.It will be deleted in the tune. You can either remove it from the car or leave it.

I dont recall exactly where the wires go for the relay switches but its also very simple.
People usually say that its more expensive to go return but i disagree.Lethal performance has the return style dual pump kit for basicly the same price as the returnless kit with dual gt pumps but when you go return you dont have to buy that expensive ass fpdm.

Hope this helps a little

JAY
 

2001Snake

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Thanks for the reply! Will be using this thread as a reference. :beer:



What all goes exactly?
Everything to do with the current fuel system really. You won't need the rails,lines,hat,pumps or fpdm. I took the factory fuel filter bracket off of my car and bent the metal prong that holds the stock filter from sliding out to fit my fore precision filter in. It fits perfectly in the stock location! Also all the evaporative emission stuff will go too. The black pump looking thing behind the driver side tire under the rear fender" don't know the name of it" it is part of the evap so it is no longer needed. Weight reduction! Lol. All the vent lines coming off the top of the tank can go also. And if you do a fore hat, to save you the trouble I had, for the fuel level sender. The yellow wire and the small black wire is for the fuel level sender, they will tie in to the factory fuel pump harness. Yellow will go to yellow and black will go to black/orange! You can't just ground the black wire as I've head from several people, because it reads ohms through the fls. This is not a hard process, it could ALL be done in one day with a friend or two.

BEFORE youput the tank back in the car test to make sure the fuel gauge works.
 

RazorGTP

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I'm going to go with it as well, it doesnt include rails though. I thought you can use your stock rails or you have to get different ones?

Stock rails and stock feed line. For my application right now I don't need a bigger feed line or rails so it's perfect. :beer:
 

Maxspeed04svt

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I know this is a old thread, but its a good one so ill bump it.

What do I do with all the evap hoses and plastic tubing coming off the tank ? any way to plug it ?
 

Bdubbs

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I know this is a old thread, but its a good one so ill bump it.

What do I do with all the evap hoses and plastic tubing coming off the tank ? any way to plug it ?

You leave all the factory stuff that connects to the fuel tank itself, except different feed and return lines. If you retain stock feed line then only a bigger return line.
 

Hef

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So all the tubes and vents from the tank can stay? No need to remove other than weight loss?
 

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