hey guys, just as the title state i need some assistance hooking up my car on the street. Car puts down 780hp/810tq to the tires via single turbo in a 4 valve new stang. Ill list the mods on the rear end and suspension as well as front suspension and you can give me input on what to do i hope. Front upr kmember, viking coilovers with i believe 250lb springs and tokico whites i think ilumina. Rear consists of all brand new bmr solid differential bushings, solid spherical uppers and lowers, strange 10 ways set in the #4 spot now, strange spool, cclip eliminators 31spline axles. Factory antiroll bar clamped to rear end and no sway bar front or rear. Car had 3.73's and bow has a set of 3.15's. Next on the list is subframe connector but are not installed yet. This is strictly a street car no track thus the long gears. Tires are M/T's 295/55r15's. They are not in the best shape but i just wished it wouldnt spin in 4th gear at 120+ lol. Any tips tricks?
Hooking on the street help.
- Thread starter Stang4u2nv
- Start date
What car and year?
I found it.
I found it.
i came in here because i thought this was going to be a totally different discussion.
Lol, my bad poor title choice... but this is related to traction on the street. 03 gt, 4v turbo 5 speed. Roughly 800hp.
You may need wider rubber on the pavement. Unless you are adding aero features to provide downforce, you are going to spin. There really isn't a good way to get weight transfer at the speed mentioned unless you want to add weight to the trunk.
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Normally i would run around 40 mph but with all the solid stuff in the back now the torque delivery is much more aggressive and thats after the gear change to longer gears. I am tempted to try some hoosier quick time pros and get rid of the mickey thompsons. Also softening the rear shocks a bit more.
Just thought maybe there were some must do's to the new edge to get them to hook. I was gonna go for bigger injectors and more boost but if i cant put this to the ground then whats the point.
Not what I expected.
The physics are all the same. You just need to find the right combo. There are a lot of factors involved in suspension setup and how much weight you are putting on the rear tires.
A new set of tires with sticky rubber can also do a lot.
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How old are the tires? How much air pressure are you running?
I've had problems with MT drag radials spinning at speed. I switched to Hoosier drag radials and it made a significant difference.
I've had problems with MT drag radials spinning at speed. I switched to Hoosier drag radials and it made a significant difference.
My wife and I used to own a WS6 Trans Am. When it was bone stock and new I would roast the tires getting on the interstate. Just downshift and plant the right foot to the floor. I don't remember what tire we put on the car 20 years ago, but a simple tire change took away my fun.
Depending on what you are doing, spinning could be inevitable. I could launch my drag bike and hook to mid 170mph in the quarter. I could do a rolling burnout on the freeway at 80 with the flick of a wrist. The torque would break the traction while the suspension was unloaded.
Granted, a bike is a different animal, but the same principle applies. I could downshift to 3rd at 80mph, slip the clutch and roll the throttle and never have an issue.
There are a lot of factors to consider, and there aren't a lot of cheap answers.
I don't advise doing what I did on the street. I have seen a few nasty accidents, and have lost a couple friends. I will give all of the advice I can. It's your choice on what you do with it.
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Depending on what you are doing, spinning could be inevitable. I could launch my drag bike and hook to mid 170mph in the quarter. I could do a rolling burnout on the freeway at 80 with the flick of a wrist. The torque would break the traction while the suspension was unloaded.
Granted, a bike is a different animal, but the same principle applies. I could downshift to 3rd at 80mph, slip the clutch and roll the throttle and never have an issue.
There are a lot of factors to consider, and there aren't a lot of cheap answers.
I don't advise doing what I did on the street. I have seen a few nasty accidents, and have lost a couple friends. I will give all of the advice I can. It's your choice on what you do with it.
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Looks like you have the go-to suspension setup, my only advice would be to check pinion angle and go with M/T ET Pro’s. I’m running them with 820+ rwhp, twin turbo 4V and 3:73s for now. I’m also auto but I spin very little from a dig in first and pretty much straight hooks in any gear from a roll.
I just read through your suspension set up again. Replacing the old tires will give the car new life. They aren't going to be a magic solution though.
You need to stiffen the chassis. The more bracing you have to reduce flex, the better. You will gain in traction, and speed. Right now you are wasting a bit of torque as the unibody is twisted. Traction is lost as weight is trasferred unequally. I would also add in a rear shock tower brace to keep the rear of the car balanced and stiff.
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You need to stiffen the chassis. The more bracing you have to reduce flex, the better. You will gain in traction, and speed. Right now you are wasting a bit of torque as the unibody is twisted. Traction is lost as weight is trasferred unequally. I would also add in a rear shock tower brace to keep the rear of the car balanced and stiff.
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Thanks for the input fellas, i think i will refrain from wot pulls for now and install my street tires in the mean time. I'll switch to the hoosier qtp's bias ply's for racing only as the spool will wear them out quick. I have a set of fr500's with summer tires so its no biggie but yea, subrame connectors are in order.
Added a spool for added grip.... turns out the tires are way too old and start to grip after long burnouts but barely holding the power.
Something else you could try that won't cost a lot of money would be to replace the front coil over springs with 175# and go a little longer in free length. This will load the springs more and assist with transferring weight. Additionally, running the Illumina's on full soft and the Strange shocks to be soft on compression and firm on rebound will help. You may also want to try running tire pressure between 15 and 18 psi. As Revvv stated, you might want to go with a wider tire.
I would also suggest an adj. rear anti-roll bar, preferably one that is welded in.
I would also suggest an adj. rear anti-roll bar, preferably one that is welded in.
I have an antiroll bar but its a street car so going into drive ways and what not will break it so i have it saved. Good ideas so far... i want to go strange in the front as well soon to be adjustable front and back because something happened to the adjustable plastic piece and are stuck on idk what.
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