Home made chiller

anthonyg

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image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegOk guys some of you have asked for a write up oh how I did my home made Chiller, this is not a detailed how to but a general write up.

I got all me parts from summit racing. All parts Vintage Air.

2- 35813 #10 straight $5.97 each

2- 35863 #10 straight bulkhead $10.97 each

2- 354100 $6.97 each 5/8 heater to -10an

2- 36033 $22.97 each
Male -10 an to 1/2 male.

8ft 31856 VUD. #10 AC hose.

You also need 2 brass 3/4 90 for the liquid (antifreeze) side and some 1/2 or 3/4 hose. Can't remember.

The flat plate I got from eBay for like $60. It's a 20 plate 3x8

Also get 2 3/4" X 1/2" reducing 90

1. Remove front bumper
2. Mount flat plate in foam absorber.
3. Remove low side AC line from accumulator to compressor
4. Cut the rubber part of the low side line closest to the compressor. Leave about 4 inches of rubber. The low side line is where you use the 5/8 heater to-10 fitting. That fitting gets connected to the #10 straight bulkhead fitting.
5. Figure out where your going to run the #10 AC lines. ( I ran the coming from the accumulator along the frame rail, down next to the radiator, out the bottom and up to the flat plate) I call this the input line to the flat plate. Now run #10 AC line from the flat plate back to the compressor.( I ran mine off the flat plate behind the passage head light through that opening back to the compressor). I call this the return line.
6. Now you have all your lines it's time to crimp the ends. You can buy the crimp too that's what I did. It was about $130. Master cool 71550. Or most machine shops can crimp these for you. The two 5/8 heater fittings (35863) go on the low side line we cut. They connect to the #10 bulk head fitting (35863) the other ends gets the #10 straight fitting (35813), these go into the flat plate with the fittings you ordered 36033
Male -10 an to 1/2 male. Along with the 3/4 to 1/2 reducing 90. Make sure you get some good pipe dope that is refrigerant compatible.
7. Locate and cut the line coming out of the heat exchanger and up to the inter-cooler. This is where you wanna pipe in the other side of the flat plate Using the 3/4 90*. You can use some Teflon tape on these fittings.
8. Tighten everything back up refill inter-cooler reservoir. Insulate the input AC line and both inter-cooler lines. It is not needed to insulate the AC return line. Charge AC. If you ran the lines like I ran mine my system now holds 3lbs of freon. If you ran the lines another way I don't know how much freon is needed.
9. Make sure the AC and the inter-cooler lines enter the flat plate at opposite ends for optimum cooling.
10. This is optional I installed two 2-way valves so I can bypass the front mount heat exchanger.

Have fun.
 
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cj428mach

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You mention cutting the factory A/C hoses, if you weren't aware most auto parts stores can make you new A/C hoses. Just go in and show/tell them the fittings you want on the ends and the length and they'll make them for you.

How long have you had this setup? I'd think loosing freon out of the fittings on the heat exchanger would be a problem as it doen't look like its setup to use O-rings like typical A/C lines.

Neat Idea.
 

anthonyg

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It doesn't leak one bit. I've checked it with a sniffer. I used quality thred sealant. All the other fittings are O-ring fittings. My dad owns his one HVAC business and my brother sell HVAC components and supplies.
 

GodStang

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You datalog at all? Wondering how well it works. Looks really cool thanks for posting it up.
 
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anthonyg

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The intercooler fluid in the reservoir gets down in the mid 40's. I couldn't get me handheld to log Down stream temps. I now have the torque app. So this season I'll log for sure.
 
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anthonyg

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image.jpeg
I finally installed a temp gauge for my intercooler fluid. I live in Tampa Florida it was 80* out when I took this pic. My intercooler fluid temp was 45*. I'd say it works quite well.
 

Tommy92

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This is awesome, thanks for the write up.
I have the same gauge set up for the heat exchanger water temperature. Where did you connect your sensor at?
 

1wild-horse

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Got a plate coming and car is tore apart. Question about how you routed the cooler lines? Was thinking I will just tap in after the H/E and go to the plate, then back to the stock line up to the intercooler.
Sorry that was #7.
 
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1wild-horse

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Wrapped mine up last night and put it in a vacuum. Have not charged it yet but I'm sure it will work flawless.

Don't want to thread jack but thought I would post an alternative here if you don't want to cut the original lines.

You can buy #10 springlock fittings x #10 beadlock from NAPA. I did 90* male and 1 straight female. Uncouple the springlock fitting just above the compressor on the low side and make your lines from there. The female fitting will be the input, male returns to the compressor. I also used 90* female o'ring fittings 1 1/6" x #10 beadlock on the flat plate side, BUT you have to have the male fittings on the plate machined to accept the oring fitting. (Not a super complicated process but may be tough if you don't have a connection to get machine work done.)
Also mounted the plate to a bracket and mounted the bracket to the crash bumper in the void between said bumper and the condenser. lots of room there and made routing the lines easier imo.
 

James Palanza

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Hey guys, doing this as well right now. Don't we need a orifice tube for this? Or are you just plumbing in the cold side through? The killer chiller systems want you to plumb the hot side into this thing which I'm assuming means you need an orifice tube to create the cooling.
 

1wild-horse

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1 wild horse some pictures would be awesome!

Hey guys, doing this as well right now. Don't we need a orifice tube for this? Or are you just plumbing in the cold side through? The killer chiller systems want you to plumb the hot side into this thing which I'm assuming means you need an orifice tube to create the cooling.
I believe it would yield cooler results by splitting both the hi and low sides and using an orifice tube or even an expansion valve, would be easily adapted to one side of the plate. For time and cleaner install I opted for using just the low side and it brings the temp down a fair amount.
I never seem to take many pics but I will post what I have.
 

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