Help!

03snkvert

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Just got a 2013 Explorer (used) for the wife, and the black plastic on the upper part of the door (between windows etc) have a ton of micro marring and swirls.

What is the best way to get rid of this? I have a PC and most of the pads, but didn't know if I needed to try and use a 3-3.5" pad, or if I could just tape off the area real good and use the 6.5" pads I already have.

I am sure the whole car needs some love, but it is 10 degrees in Iowa today, and I just want to take care of what is easily seen by the eye.

Thanks, Corey

Edit: this isn't my X, but I am talking about the Black Plastic between the front and rear windows on the pillars!
63239136.jpg
 
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luke1333

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yes do it like you would a normal paint correct. i used 5" pads on my dads 13 taurus last summer and just taped off the plastic pieces around it. takes some good cutting to get rid of all the swirls
 

03snkvert

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Thanks, I figured I would start with a light cutting pad and Poorboys SSR1, and then get a little more aggressive if it needs it!
 

03snkvert

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Would also like to get some opinions on what to use on the Black Plastic moldings around the bottom of the car. Like Cleaning procedure and Protection!
 

Chewy

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Those are called Door Appliques and are very soft. You'll find that pretty much every car that uses these will be marred to all heck. Because they're soft, it doesn't usually take an agressive pad/polish to remove them. You'll also want to use a soft finishing pad at the end to reduce pad marring. Because how small they are, I would suggest using a 3 inch pad combo.

If you want the absolute best protection for the lower textured plastic door moldings and trim that is like that, I would look into having them Opti-Coated. Bar none better then any dressing you can put on them.
 

03snkvert

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Those are called Door Appliques and are very soft. You'll find that pretty much every car that uses these will be marred to all heck. Because they're soft, it doesn't usually take an agressive pad/polish to remove them. You'll also want to use a soft finishing pad at the end to reduce pad marring. Because how small they are, I would suggest using a 3 inch pad combo.

If you want the absolute best protection for the lower textured plastic door moldings and trim that is like that, I would look into having them Opti-Coated. Bar none better then any dressing you can put on them.

What is opti-coating?

I do have the Red CCS Ultrasoft Pad, and the Gold CCS Super Soft Jewelling pad, but they are the 6.5". I just really didn't want to order the $30-40 worth of 3" pads to use once!
 

Chewy

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Opti-Coat is a permanent coating that beads water indefinitely and creates a true sacrificial layer over the surface protecting it. Try Google searching Opti-Coat for more info. Here's a thread that shows it's durability: GRAND FINALE -Optimum Opti-Coating - Durability Test Review!!! - Car Detailing Product Discussion - Autopia

What other pads do you have? I would suggest a medium cutting pad and a final finishing/polishing pad. 6 inch pads are fine, just make sure to do a really good job with taping off your trim.

20130511_101044_zps74a04921.jpg
 

03snkvert

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Opti-Coat is a permanent coating that beads water indefinitely and creates a true sacrificial layer over the surface protecting it. Try Google searching Opti-Coat for more info. Here's a thread that shows it's durability: GRAND FINALE -Optimum Opti-Coating - Durability Test Review!!! - Car Detailing Product Discussion - Autopia

What other pads do you have? I would suggest a medium cutting pad and a final finishing/polishing pad. 6 inch pads are fine, just make sure to do a really good job with taping off your trim.

20130511_101044_zps74a04921.jpg

I have at least one of every pad that CCS makes in the 6.5" Version. I planned on getting some 2" Painters tape, and going a little overboard on the taping.

What process did you use in the pic above?

I have been reading up on the Opti-Coat 2.0 and it seems like some cool stuff. The only thing that bothers me is the fact that it is a PERMANENT coating. I see there are some people that have had it on for a couple of years and no problems, but if there ever is a problem, there is no way to get it off the plastic.

What have people been saying about using the OC2.0 on paint. Seems like it keeps you from having to wax the car every few months?
 

coolcobramatt

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You can use any size pad you want, it's just the 5.5 and 6.5 make it a helluva lot quicker job over a tiny 3.5. Those are pretty much for the front and rear fascias and other hard to "get into" spots.

On the product, look into autogeek.net for many options. I personally use the Pinnacle and Wolfgang lines. It's an all weekend job for sure, taking your time and doing it right. Tape off the car with painter's tape, use an orange pad for the first stage polish (Pinnacle Ultimate Swirl Remover or Wolfgang Uber Compound), go to a grey/black pad for stage 2 finish (Pinnacle Finishing Polish and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze), and then to a red pad for final wax stage. You can add a step and apply a sealant in between the finishing polish and wax if you like, just allow 24 hours for the sealant to cure before the wax.

Again, take your time, it's the slow and steady first stage that really makes the difference. Follow this video...it's what taught me the basics. They have vids based on what polisher you use...i.e. 7424 or Flex.

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate,
 

03snkvert

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Yeah, I have done a few cars, but I am just going to work on the Door Appliques right now because the weather here is only 15 Degrees.

I have pretty much all of the Poorboys stuff. I have the SSR1, SSR2.5, Liquid Nattys Blue and EX I believe. I think for right now, I am just going to use some of the Poorboys Natural look on the plastic and buff it with a Microfiber towel to a matte finish, and then keep reading up and learning about the Opti-Coat 2.0
 

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