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2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Help with verifying correct suspension setup
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<blockquote data-quote="Norm Peterson" data-source="post: 16121530" data-attributes="member: 193960"><p>What you should do first is make measurements of the cambers that are there now, which will give you some idea where it'd end up after the rest of the work gets done. Assuming that the car actually is lowered by 1.2", expect camber to go about 0.75° further negative. Plus or minus a little due to bolt to hole clearances allowing things to go back together in not precisely the same relationship they used to be in (think "wiggle room").</p><p></p><p>IIRC, while -0.75° is Ford's "factory preferred" camber setting, even Ford considers camber on these cars that's anywhere from 0° to -1.5° to be acceptable. So there's no need to put your car's cambers at "factory preferred". Heh . . . they may not have even been there right off the production line (My car's weren't, and they weren't even inside the range either . . . no, I did not even get that "fixed").</p><p></p><p>I more or less agree with D above that a bit more camber than factory-preferred is still do-able even in street-only driving (IOW, not autocrossing or doing HPDE days out on real road courses). That "bit more" depends to some extent on how briskly you normally tend to take corners . . . or perhaps how much more so you might start doing with the newly-firmer and more composed suspension.</p><p></p><p>Personally I don't like "camber bolts", which used to be called "crash bolts" in the repair industry (a quick, cheap way to get alignment on a crash-damaged car back somewhere near right when the car might not have been worth much to begin with). Insufficient clamp load has been identified as contributing to early S197 knuckle failures and slippage of camber settings at least in hard driving.</p><p></p><p>It's not that correcting camber at the strut to knuckle joint is a bad approach; it's the half-strength bolts that most camber-bolt suppliers provide that makes them a poor alternative to camber plates. If you can find full-strength fasteners (they'll call for something like 166 ft*lbs installation torque, where most aftermarket bolts specify something a lot closer to 80), they'd be acceptable. Ford at least used to have their own bolts and there was a necessary procedure that went along with them. I've done something very similar on a different car.</p><p></p><p>Another alternative would be Steeda's HD strut mounts, which offer some camber adjustability. Not as much as many of the plates, but having some is still better than none. I've been running the same set of these for 8 or 9 years. Like with plates, you'd just have to pick the right ones as Ford did change the strut mounting for the non-GT500 Mustangs somewhere around 2010 or 2011.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Sig pic is showing about -2° camber, tires are still fully street-legal and capable of passing inspection anywhere after 5000+ street miles . . . and over a dozen track days.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Norm</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Norm Peterson, post: 16121530, member: 193960"] What you should do first is make measurements of the cambers that are there now, which will give you some idea where it'd end up after the rest of the work gets done. Assuming that the car actually is lowered by 1.2", expect camber to go about 0.75° further negative. Plus or minus a little due to bolt to hole clearances allowing things to go back together in not precisely the same relationship they used to be in (think "wiggle room"). IIRC, while -0.75° is Ford's "factory preferred" camber setting, even Ford considers camber on these cars that's anywhere from 0° to -1.5° to be acceptable. So there's no need to put your car's cambers at "factory preferred". Heh . . . they may not have even been there right off the production line (My car's weren't, and they weren't even inside the range either . . . no, I did not even get that "fixed"). I more or less agree with D above that a bit more camber than factory-preferred is still do-able even in street-only driving (IOW, not autocrossing or doing HPDE days out on real road courses). That "bit more" depends to some extent on how briskly you normally tend to take corners . . . or perhaps how much more so you might start doing with the newly-firmer and more composed suspension. Personally I don't like "camber bolts", which used to be called "crash bolts" in the repair industry (a quick, cheap way to get alignment on a crash-damaged car back somewhere near right when the car might not have been worth much to begin with). Insufficient clamp load has been identified as contributing to early S197 knuckle failures and slippage of camber settings at least in hard driving. It's not that correcting camber at the strut to knuckle joint is a bad approach; it's the half-strength bolts that most camber-bolt suppliers provide that makes them a poor alternative to camber plates. If you can find full-strength fasteners (they'll call for something like 166 ft*lbs installation torque, where most aftermarket bolts specify something a lot closer to 80), they'd be acceptable. Ford at least used to have their own bolts and there was a necessary procedure that went along with them. I've done something very similar on a different car. Another alternative would be Steeda's HD strut mounts, which offer some camber adjustability. Not as much as many of the plates, but having some is still better than none. I've been running the same set of these for 8 or 9 years. Like with plates, you'd just have to pick the right ones as Ford did change the strut mounting for the non-GT500 Mustangs somewhere around 2010 or 2011. Sig pic is showing about -2° camber, tires are still fully street-legal and capable of passing inspection anywhere after 5000+ street miles . . . and over a dozen track days. Norm [/QUOTE]
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Help with verifying correct suspension setup
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