help with my gt?

SteveKnight77

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I agree with checking the rest of the front end. Front sway bar bushings and ball joints especially since they wear with age/use. Urathane sway bar bushings would be an inexpensive upgrade if yours need to be replaced. Also a perfect time to instal new tie rod ends if the rack doesnt come with them.

If the car has over 80k mi the shocks and struts are likely weak/shot. The Koni orange shocks/struts are an inexpensive upgrade.

I went with a set of ford perfomance B springs(I think) for both my 04 and my sons 03 gt. Lower but not too low. Was able to get his aligned perfect using the aftermarket eccentric bolts to set camber. Mine with the supercharger, intercooler and piping sat a bit lower and required camber caster plates to get the alignment right.

Whatever you end up replacing make sure that you go to a good place for an alignment. It would be a shame to scrub new tires because the alignment was bad.
ok ill definitely look into that for sure.. i hope i didnt make a mistake but i figured i would order some lower control arms since the bushings looked like they could be replaced i just ordered some moog. i figured that wouldnt be awful but the springs, struts and stuff i hadnt made a choice on but im going to replace it all...im currently taking out the rack as we speak.
 

SteveKnight77

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I'm running C springs. I also have Steeda ball joints. I'm putting the spacers that come with the ball joints in today because I am tired of dragging my exhaust. 1/4-1/2" is more than you realize.

Plus I can't get used to the rake the car has at the moment while running stock Bullitt wheels.

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i just ordered moog lower control arms i hope i didnt waste my money..ugghhh
 

Revvv

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Ok so I have another question. Is caster/camber plates a good idea with non adjustable struts?
Changing the struts alone will not generate an alignment change that would require CC plates. You can generally get by without the plates if you do a mild drop. Anything more than 1-1.5" will likely require CC plates to get things back into spec.

My FRPP springs are a mild drop, and CC plates are not needed. I am not running adjustable struts and shocks.

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SteveKnight77

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Changing the struts alone will not generate an alignment change that would require CC plates. You can generally get by without the plates if you do a mild drop. Anything more than 1-1.5" will likely require CC plates to get things back into spec.

My FRPP springs are a mild drop, and CC plates are not needed. I am not running adjustable struts and shocks.

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right on, im going to go with c springs. havent made up my mind on struts or what sway bar i want to get yet ... thanks for the info so i shouldnt need the plates or adjustables.. that'll some some cash..
 

Revvv

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I have a friend running C springs without isos. His car aligned into spec. I have isos. The ride will stiffen up and flatten the car out in the corners. You also will not be low enough to rip the bottom out of the car.

I will not say thay larger sway bars will not help, but I can tell you that polyurethane bushings alone will make it feel like you have a larger sway bar.

Front and rear strut tower braces, and aftermarket sub frame connectors will stiffen things up a great deal, and will be impressive.

Installing a panhard bar will also make the car more predictable.

I would do it in small steps. No reason to do it all at once unless you have the expendable funds ready to go.

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Sluggie24

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Replacing the lower arms takes care of the ball joints for you. Gonna have to disconnect the sway bar end links and take the springs out anyway to do them so its a perfect time to do the sway bar bushings, end links and springs at the same time. Might as well do the struts too to finish tightening up the front end. Then since you have to do the rear springs(since they came with the fronts) its a prefect time to do the rear shocks.

It adds up fast.

I wouldnt bother doing strut tower or shock tower braces unless you're planning on doing some kind of autocross events. You won't notice a difference with street driving. Save the $.

After getting all that done, down the road you can do subframe connectors and rear control arms. (When you do rear arms you can toss the kicker shocks) Unless you feel like doing the arms when you do the rear springs....

Also with all that handling dont ignore the brakes. Bare minimum you should look into the front cobra brake kit. Will make a big difference by itself.

That should give you enough to spend your hard earned money on for a bit.
 

SteveKnight77

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I have a friend running C springs without isos. His car aligned into spec. I have isos. The ride will stiffen up and flatten the car out in the corners. You also will not be low enough to rip the bottom out of the car.

I will not say thay larger sway bars will not help, but I can tell you that polyurethane bushings alone will make it feel like you have a larger sway bar.

Front and rear strut tower braces, and aftermarket sub frame connectors will stiffen things up a great deal, and will be impressive.

Installing a panhard bar will also make the car more predictable.

I would do it in small steps. No reason to do it all at once unless you have the expendable funds ready to go.

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ok one good thing is someone already put sub frame connecters on the car thats one less thing i have to buy.
 

SteveKnight77

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Replacing the lower arms takes care of the ball joints for you. Gonna have to disconnect the sway bar end links and take the springs out anyway to do them so its a perfect time to do the sway bar bushings, end links and springs at the same time. Might as well do the struts too to finish tightening up the front end. Then since you have to do the rear springs(since they came with the fronts) its a prefect time to do the rear shocks.

It adds up fast.

I wouldnt bother doing strut tower or shock tower braces unless you're planning on doing some kind of autocross events. You won't notice a difference with street driving. Save the $.

After getting all that done, down the road you can do subframe connectors and rear control arms. (When you do rear arms you can toss the kicker shocks) Unless you feel like doing the arms when you do the rear springs....

Also with all that handling dont ignore the brakes. Bare minimum you should look into the front cobra brake kit. Will make a big difference by itself.

That should give you enough to spend your hard earned money on for a bit.
on my way... i have the rack out and the sway bar out right now. im going to be replacing all the suspension front and rear including brakes/calipers/and the rotors. the sub frame connectors being on already was a bonus.. so right now im starting up front and tearing it all down and then rebuild, im not driving it right now so its not a issue. just figuring out what i want and having the cash is taking the time. but the help and info im getting on here is definitly helping in my plans . thanks to everyone responding for sure...
 

Revvv

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another question im a sheetmetal worker couldnt i just make some and weld them in? if so what would be my best option on that? what to use i can get anything in that department.lol
I enjoy fabrication. If you want to build your own, you can. However, many companies have already done the work and sell it for less than I can build it.

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