Engine braking is done by timing the exhaust valves so they open when the piston reaches the top of the compression cycle. It has nothing to do with the turbo.The engine braking on a diesel is thru pinching the VGT turbo down.
Engine braking is done by timing the exhaust valves so they open when the piston reaches the top of the compression cycle. It has nothing to do with the turbo.The engine braking on a diesel is thru pinching the VGT turbo down.
AKA a Jake Brake.Engine braking is done by timing the exhaust valves so they open when the piston reaches the top of the compression cycle. It has nothing to do with the turbo.
After doing some research, it appears that the 24ft trailer I got should weigh 3200lbs, which is less than I thought. The car weighs around 2800 so I'm at 6000lbs. This is less than I thought, but I agree with others that aero is the biggest problem to overcome. Most of my trips wont involve traversing mountains and the trips are about 2hrs each way. Lots of 60-85mph traveling and I think I will feel that parachute at those speeds.
I am in upstate SC and would like to make it up to VIR and NCM one of these days
910#
There’s a lot of talk about engine braking, which is certainly worth considering with the diesel, but doesn’t the trailer have brakes too?What does that trailer weigh?
My 7.3 Godzilla f250 engine brakes.One thing to consider re gas v diesel power. The GMC Duramax uses the engine to slow the trailer/truck down on a steep downhill grade. Gas trucks don’t have that capacity. Most anyone who has over-heated brakes towing on a downhill grade knows the benefit of that feature.
The heavier suspension works to make a safe towing experience.
Engine braking is done by timing the exhaust valves so they open when the piston reaches the top of the compression cycle. It has nothing to do with the turbo.
Interesting. I didn’t know this.The exhaust brake via the turbo is the way they "engine brake" a light duty diesel these days.
There are no exhaust valve solenoids controlling pressure on the light duty stuff that im aware of.
My 7.3 Godzilla f250 engine brakes.
None of the engines in pickups do this.Engine braking is done by timing the exhaust valves so they open when the piston reaches the top of the compression cycle. It has nothing to do with the turbo.
And thank God for that. Otherwise, everyone with the screaming turbos you hear on acceleration would be yukking it up on decel if they did. You’d need earmuffs to drive anywhere around here.None of the engines in pickups do this.
I will respond because I have that exact truck as I stated in my post.The more I think about it, the more I am thinking a 3.5L ecoboost F150 makes the most sense. They are rated to tow up to almost 12,000lbs and I only need to tow 6500lbs max, 4 times a year max. This will also be a good daily driver with a nice ride. I usually only drive my truck 1-2 days a week. I have a beater Lexus that I usually commute to work in.
I have been looking at several 2015-2016 models for sale today. What is the consensus on these trucks with higher miles? I'm seeing clean ones with 80k miles for $26k and some not-so-clean ones with 180k miles for $18k.. Miles dont bother me much on clean, one-owner vehicles but have these drivetrains been proven past 200k miles?
Thank you for this insight!I will respond because I have that exact truck as I stated in my post.
Cam phasers are a real issue with that engine and if you go on any of the forums you will end up thinking that every truck has a problem. I consider myself to be very fortunate that I haven’t yet. I do have a TINY leak, like seepage, from the front cover that I don’t plan to fix, but that’s really the only drivetrain problem I’ve ever had. I change engine oil every 5000 with full synthetic and have the trans flushed at the dealer every 40,000 miles. Also, of course,differential fluids changed.
I recently sold my 2016 Expedition with the same engine because I never used it. That had 45,000 miles and didn’t have any issues either. You would expect that, but some folks with these engines complain of problems with very low mileage. I think it’s luck of the draw.
When you start talking about 26K now you’re into 2019 and 2020 range from what I’ve seen, but I’m not sure the 6 speed is available in anything other than the base engine.
(Now, the 2.7 eco-boost may be enough for you to tow that maximum weight you talk about and according to everything that I’ve read, they have way fewer cam phaser problems than the 3.5. Also read guys saying they tow quite a bit with them on the regular - mainly campers.)
I think you can do a lot better with pricing if you could be a little patient with getting the truck you’re looking for. Do some of your own research but from what I understand it’s really upon cold start when you’ll notice if there’s a problem ( metallic rattling) with the phasers or not. I wouldn’t consider buying anything I wasn’t able to hear start up from stone cold. That will be a good tell, but no guarantee of course.
I’m not an expert on the subject, only on my particular truck, but now that you think you’ve made your choice I’m sure that some of the guys here will be able to give you more knowledgeable guidance.
Regarding high mileage, I can’t speak to over 200,000 as mine just crossed it but my one neighbor had 270,000 on his 2014 3.5 EB and he would’ve kept it going until it died if someone didn’t slam into the back of him ( one owner truck as well).
Good luck in the hunt.
Holy Crap!!!with the ecoboost stuff -
as mentioned cam phasers and timing chains - ~3k repair. Change the oil at no more than 5k imho.
water pumps - about every 85k miles, getting rid of all the orange coolant and replacing with the newer gold stuff might help. ONLY use a motorcraft thermostat if you work on the cooling system, what most parts stores sell are NOT designed correctly.
turbo cooling lines (2 each side), 2-3k to have a shop replace them (i couldnt get the fitting out of the back of the head with the truck on the ground).
vacuum pump on the back of the passenger side head is a common oil leak point. Not terribly hard to replace just kind of a pain in the ass.
if you have the transmission cooler up front - keep an eye on the transmission lines - the quick connect fittings can corrode from the inside out. If they let go at highway speed it may pump the trans dry and toast it before you get stopped. I would think youd want a truck with the tow/heavy tow package (not necessarily max tow)
some have issues with the exhaust manifolds - there is an updated part that uses the extra bolt hole in the head to support it at the rear that ford chose not to originally.
all that being said I have 172k on my truck. Ive been through 2 water pumps, broke a plastic charge pipe changing it last time, and the turbo cooling lines. I did proactively cut out the trans cooler quick connects and replaced with barbed fittings and hose clamps, mine were prefectly fine.
Holy Crap!!!
So you’re saying my truck is a ticking time bomb……
( jumps off cliff )