Nice results thus far man! What fuel are you running for the 20psi tune?
Hellion single 76 bb/billet wheel build thread
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And a whole lot more heat with the whipple.
Sounds great man. I'm looking for 1000+ rwhp and torque with mine.
I should have mine done in about 2-4 weeks.
Let me know about your maf wash and did it get tuned out.
I should have mine done in about 2-4 weeks.
Let me know about your maf wash and did it get tuned out.
From 2500-3500rpms (on most modular setups) turbos build boost linearly like a procharger but from there have built all of their boost by 3500. Where a procharger builds till 6500, a turbo car is fully boosted very early. Once fully boosted, there is no higher fi efficiency system than a turbo setup so you will see maximized fi performance from 3500rpms on.
With sc cars, higher rpms require more and more hp in the form of drag. On a turbo car, 14#'s of boost fully reaches the motor by about 3500 but requires very little hp (oil return pump, simple accessories-10hp at most) to operate. At 6500rpms, a whipple needs about 19.5#'s to do what 14.5#'s does on a turbo car because of this~ roughly 75whp of drag.
Now that being said, remember that the turbo car is more efficient regarding power production as well under the curve.
From 3500rpms until redline, the power and torque production of a turbo car will be higher than an sc car if peak figures are the same and efficient turbos/sc are in use for the given peak number. This means an sc car might have 620 peak hp and torque (easy math) with an average hp and torque of say 470 from 35-6500rpms where the same 620peak hp in a turbo car would likely see an average hp/tq of 510 for the same 3500-6500 span.
That average/efficient hp/tq increase also remains with the car as altitude becomes a factor. At sea level an sc car will pull very strongly but a turbo car with same peak hp (of the same model; both in optimal state of tune) will still outpace it by a little drivers being equal. Now go up say 3-5000 feet and the turbo cars will compensate for altitude by always generating all of their boost where an sc car will suffer 9-15% power loss. If you live anywhere that is 1500ft above sea level, ask to see your uncorrected and corrected whippes dyno numbers for a better idea of this. On a turbo car the power at the wheels uncorrected is essentially what you'd make at sea level apart from factoring the whp that the motor in na trim would experience. Example: a stock 99 cobra makes 270whp at sea level. It goes to Colorado and makes 230whp (15% power loss). Now the car gets twin turbos but everything from the long block stays the same (heads/internals/cams) and gets set with twin 50mm turbos at 8#'s. in Colorado it should make roughly 430whp uncorrected and at sea level it should make about 460whp because the motor is experiencing 15% power loss but the turbos are -if at all- not effected by this. An sc car on the other hand is mechanically pulled for 14#'s on the exact same car, and allows oh so much extra cubic volume of air in. However the air is thinner in Colorado so this car only makes the equivalent of say 12#'s of sea level oxygen dense air. The reason the turbo's can get away with literally putting more air than 14#'s in is because it's optimizing the o2 measures until they reach the preset sea level equivalent of 14#'s of oxygen dense air. It does this by spinning the turbo faster until the right level of oxygen is reaching the maf aft of the intercooled.
An sc car in Colorado will make literally 15+% less power than it would at sea level where that same car in turbo form would only make 6-7% less power since only the n/a motor configuration is experience loss as general compression isnt as efficient at day 8.5/1 if there is less oxygen.
Also factor that you can run 15-17# of boost on a pump gas turbo modular and the effect is even greater. That comes out to 700whp with an immensely broad, unmatchable power curve from 3500-6500rpms. At altitude this vehicle would be a monster relative to most anything except for turbo or serious nitrous cars. Na, sc, and most nitrous
cars with "more" hp (corrected dyno numbers) would get walked very hard. A friend of mine had an Rsx turbo'd with 410whp (roughly 390~ realistically uncorrected) and literally walked my 14psi "470 corrected" (probably 405 uncorrected) eaton cobra by 4 lengths from a 50-80 and we stopped because it was such a slaughter. Again, I'm up at 4500ft so the turbo car is in much better standings for altitude.
Juiced46 has some single turbo videos on YouTube that show in car and flyby passes which are some of the best. In general youtubing "turbo cobra" or "tt cobra" will give you a lot of material to evaluate and get ideas from.
Good luck and hopefully some of this info is helpful for ya, cheers.
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One addition, quarter or partial throttle inputs can also spool turbos so the literal passing power is quite great even at low rpms in a turbo car.
Tip in about 30% into the throttle of a turbo car and you'll build good boost, in the area of 60+% of peak possible boost so torque will be more than adequate for any type of passing/gear.
Even as low as 2200rpms, turbo modules are registering 2-4#'s of boost when you go wot. That doesn't sound like a lot of power but remember that 8#'s on a turbo modular is enough for 470-500whp with all that meaty unrivaled midrange. A 500whp turbo modular feels like a 575+whp sc car from 2500-5500rpms, then about like a 550whp sc car from there till just shy of redline where that sc car will feel a little faster just before redline(61-6500rpms the sc will feel slightly faster.)
Tip in about 30% into the throttle of a turbo car and you'll build good boost, in the area of 60+% of peak possible boost so torque will be more than adequate for any type of passing/gear.
Even as low as 2200rpms, turbo modules are registering 2-4#'s of boost when you go wot. That doesn't sound like a lot of power but remember that 8#'s on a turbo modular is enough for 470-500whp with all that meaty unrivaled midrange. A 500whp turbo modular feels like a 575+whp sc car from 2500-5500rpms, then about like a 550whp sc car from there till just shy of redline where that sc car will feel a little faster just before redline(61-6500rpms the sc will feel slightly faster.)
Thanks man! I'm running c16 for my 20psi tune just to be safe. But the meth would be good for it if I didn't want to get race gas. I just think I'll be on the safe side and run it any way.
Nooo kidding! No more bags of ice for me at the track! Lol
Well the back wash didn't really get tuned out.... Maybe your tuner has better luck than mine..... I'm limited to just a few tuners in my area so it is what it is.
My I think if I was going for 1000+ I'd definitely do blow thru anyway!
Bro ! Sounds like you had a fairly smooth successful turbo build. AWESOME thread. You have inspired and made me certain about switching from my Novi 2000 2001 cobra. Excited for you man. Im going to contact that man from hellion who helped you out. May I ask your final price for turbo parts. Not fuel or meth kits.
thanks,
Daron.
thanks,
Daron.
Very nice!
Back to the "what the stock engine can take". After talking to my shop they were more worried about the stress on the bottom end from the HP then the boost number. I am going to watch what I say about boost because my freak made 750rwhp on 93 pump only with a little less boost and that messed up my thinking a bit.
My future mods will be forward facing headers, blow through mass air, auto Trans, cage, fire suppressant system, chute
Damn good numbers. Man, I love those precision billet wheels. My old school turbonetics would never hang with that. It too 20-21# to make just over 700rwhp.
And with the backwash, basically, I think it is a dashpot or something that needs adjustment. Need to have the idle hang a little bit and come down slower when you push the clutch in. It takes some work getting it dialed in, but it can be done.
He paid less than what is listed online.
And with the backwash, basically, I think it is a dashpot or something that needs adjustment. Need to have the idle hang a little bit and come down slower when you push the clutch in. It takes some work getting it dialed in, but it can be done.
He paid less than what is listed online.
sorry if i missed it but what exhaust housing is this?
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