Heat soak issues

[KilledbyKenne]

First off, I tried a search, but it just gave me am error saying CAI was too short to search. Sorry.

I had my car into the tuner for timing being pulled after he dyno tuned it. He ran it back to back with the hood closed on the dyno and iat's went through the roof. He suggested that the first thing I change is my "CAI" set up. My current setup is a K&N unit that is basically an open filter in the engine bay. I've been meaning to do this ever since butting the car, but keep putting it off. The time is here now.

What is the best CAI for my car that pulls from the fenderwell? I am still running the stock MAF with a Mafia on setting 3. I looked at the JLT high boost but you have to have one of the Big Air MAF's. I don't want to buy one of those on top of an intake.

What intake would you suggest for my set up?

Engine bay pic:

http://

Thanks!

 

[01yellercobra]

What did he consider through the roof temp wise? Did you check your intercooler pump? And did he at least have a fan on the heat exchanger? I know when my intercooler pump died I saw IAT's in the 160 range just driving. The highest I've seen since replacing it is about 130. And that was in stop and go traffic. I have an open air filter in the engine bay as well.

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

Having the hood closed on the dyno with a rai is like a worst case scenario, most tuners have the hood open, this being probably one of the reasons.

 

[KilledbyKenne]

He had the hood down to try to narrow down where the issue was.

An additional part of the story that I left out is that he tuned the car originally like a normal tuner would. On the dyno with the hood open. I got the car back and when I went to mess around with my buddies z06 I was hitting a wall around 5800 rpm. It would pull timing in a bad way. I replaced the stock he with a dual pass (something I had already planned on), and the problem continued. That's when he put it back on the dyno with the hood closed and the fan on the heat exchanger. First pull made 612. Second pull-56x. Third pull-54x. Iat's 150-160.

I've wanted to change out the intake setup for awhile anyway, so this seems like a good place to start in resolving my heat issues.

In regards to the ic pump. If it is going out, what happens exactly? Does it not flow as fast? Randomly stops while driving around? When I replaced the he I filled the system up again and ran it until the pump kicked on. It moves fluid. Just not sure how they behave when they are going out.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[96gt02]

You would be far better off just running either a stock air box with snorkel or a jlt fenderwell high boost setup

 

[R.D.P.]

What about adding a Killer Chiller? It's going to make way more of a difference than changing CAI's. What's your hood vent setup? My personal opinion is that removing the stock vents and hood blanket and going with open vents or something minimal like the LFP's is a must do mod for these cars once your running a twin screw. It's crazy how I can see the heat rolling out of my hood vents now after having done this mod.

I also believe the oversized coolant tanks in the stock location do more harm than good. I think the benefit of the additional fluid capacity is zero or very minimal and they restrict airflow in that area with the hood down. This is mostly just a theory though.

 

[MG01GT]

Everything I have read and been told that on the KB cars the RAI is just not the most effective set up, Im running a JLT HighBoost set up along with an upgraded HE tank and Killer Chiller. It does a very good job at keeping everything in check but at the end of the day these KBs make a lot of heat. Try running straight distilled water and Ice in your HE tank once and see how it does. Might help narrow down what your issue is.

 

[whitedevil95]

Honestly just get the High Boost. Its the best out there IMO(cold air and 105MM throughout. OR if you are really strapped for funds get the JLT CAI and then upgrade to the HB later(its easy to do).

 

[KilledbyKenne]

What about adding a Killer Chiller? It's going to make way more of a difference than changing CAI's. What's your hood vent setup? My personal opinion is that removing the stock vents and hood blanket and going with open vents or something minimal like the LFP's is a must do mod for these cars once your running a twin screw. It's crazy how I can see the heat rolling out of my hood vents now after having done this mod.

I also believe the oversized coolant tanks in the stock location do more harm than good. I think the benefit of the additional fluid capacity is zero or very minimal and they restrict airflow in that area with the hood down. This is mostly just a theory though.

I will eventually go with a Killer Chiller set up, but can't justify dropping a grand on the car right now. Just recently had to replace a broken trans. I'm in that about $4k.

My hood blanket is gone. Just run the open stock vents. I've contemplated cutting every other vertical out. Just haven't decided yet if I will.

Everything I have read and been told that on the KB cars the RAI is just not the most effective set up, Im running a JLT HighBoost set up along with an upgraded HE tank and Killer Chiller. It does a very good job at keeping everything in check but at the end of the day these KBs make a lot of heat. Try running straight distilled water and Ice in your HE tank once and see how it does. Might help narrow down what your issue is.

My HE mixture consists of about 70% distilled water with coolant and water wetter making up the other 30%. I'll add ice when I go to the track which will dilute my mixture more.

Honestly just get the High Boost. Its the best out there IMO(cold air and 105MM throughout. OR if you are really strapped for funds get the JLT CAI and then upgrade to the HB later(its easy to do).

The JLT CAI is the route I'm considering the most at this point. I don't want to change MAF's right now, but that will be an option later on.

Thanks guys.

 

[R.D.P.]

My hood blanket is gone. Just run the open stock vents. I've contemplated cutting every other vertical out. Just haven't decided yet if I will.

Did you cut off the little flaps on the bottom of the stock vents? You might even want to just try no vents. It really doesn't look that bad IMO and it wouldn't cost you anything.

 

[KilledbyKenne]

Hmm...not sure what flaps to are talking about. Maybe the previous owner cut them off. Without them cut, would the vents not open to anything? I am able to see my ic reservoir through the vent with my hood closed if that means anything.

 

[Woody6799]

Hmm...not sure what flaps to are talking about. Maybe the previous owner cut them off. Without them cut, would the vents not open to anything? I am able to see my ic reservoir through the vent with my hood closed if that means anything.

Means your vents are open. I went one step further and when I upgraded to the true forged hood vents I just left the mesh screen out so I run wide open vents now. If IATs are a big issue I would also run the JLT HB. You can grind the mounting point down a little bit and mount the stock MAF into. I ran mine that way for over a year. You need to be careful sucking up water with this set up if you drive in the rain. Your IAT's really shouldn't be an issue for anything but tuning though. Everything I have read says that over 5 mph the air movement in the bay is the same if you have a CAI or RAI. I compared moving IAT's with a buddy last year with almost identical set ups and his RAI was about 4* higher then mine.

 

[01yellercobra]

He had the hood down to try to narrow down where the issue was.

An additional part of the story that I left out is that he tuned the car originally like a normal tuner would. On the dyno with the hood open. I got the car back and when I went to mess around with my buddies z06 I was hitting a wall around 5800 rpm. It would pull timing in a bad way. I replaced the stock he with a dual pass (something I had already planned on), and the problem continued. That's when he put it back on the dyno with the hood closed and the fan on the heat exchanger. First pull made 612. Second pull-56x. Third pull-54x. Iat's 150-160.

I've wanted to change out the intake setup for awhile anyway, so this seems like a good place to start in resolving my heat issues.

In regards to the ic pump. If it is going out, what happens exactly? Does it not flow as fast? Randomly stops while driving around? When I replaced the he I filled the system up again and ran it until the pump kicked on. It moves fluid. Just not sure how they behave when they are going out.

Thanks for the replies.

If he's making pulls one after another it's going to heat up. No way around it. When mine went it would pump for a while then stop. And when it did pump it wasn't very strong.

Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk

 

[MalcolmV8]

Moving the CAI into the fender will do little to nothing for IAT2. Been there done that. The fact is these large twin screw blowers make a ton of heat and the temp of the blower/intercooler under it is going to determine the IAT2 temps.
I've tried running mostly water in the supercharger IC, redline water wetter, spraying methanol injection in the intake charge, spraying nitrous in the intake charge, even rigged up some fans on the back of the heat exchanger under the bumper, absolutely nothing drops IAT2 temps. Even built my own custom massive 6" ID cold air intake

Finally I tried a killer chiller and loan behold IAT2 temps come down. It is quite honestly the only thing that has any real affect on IAT2 temps. They're not a grand either, $600 shipped I believe it was. I've since realized that the core of the killer chiller is nothing more than just a simple plate heat exchanger you can buy for hardly anything. I saw some pics and setup (on FB I think it was) where guys were making their own KC for under $100. If you have the time to source all the fittings and such it can be done. Myself I'd rather just pay Joe the $600 and get everything in a kit ready to go.

 

[SVT_Troy]

X2 what Malcolm said. I haven't installed my KC yet but know plenty that have. I'm planing on doing mine this winter, by then I should be finished collecting a few more parts to compliment the setup.

 

[stangfreak]

welcome to the big blower twinscrew world. All these big blowers, 3.4 whipple, etc, will all make crazy heat. when you run them where they need to be, heat soak is a bitch. All these guys for years saying they run cool, even back in the day when the 2.2 kb came out, everyone said yea they run so much cooler, I never bought into that and so many people agreed. Look at the 4.0 whipple guys. some removed the blower bc the temps were insane. Try the killer chiller, or go with a turbo or a centri blower. roots/twinscrews, bigger they are, the more heat they make