Beautifully done!My Road Course setup in progress:
For max flow I'm running 1.25" aluminum tubing & 1.25" hose throughout my system. Used tubing because at 1.25" it's still as compact as 1" hose O.D. No sharp 90° fittings anywhere, all large radius bends. 45° & straight 20AN fittings. at the intercooler. No Tee fittings for bypass, I welded 3/4" barbs to the main flow tubes instead.
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Department of Boost POWA Pump and it does have 1 1/2" hose barbs.Beautifully done!
What pump are you using and are the factory hose barbs (on the pump) 1 1/2”?
Thanks
Ken
The best way to ensure there's no air in a system is by using a vacuum filler, I use one like this:To ask inquisitive minds and explore options.....I want to run a system sans a coolant reservoir (both space savings and money to buy one), but I am told and feel I need one to "degas" the system since I can not "force fill" the system to purge the air from the start.
Any thoughts on running an old school radiator cap/fill with a coolant purge/overflow tank? I can hide a the overflow in the fender well and eliminate the tank if I put the fill at the highest point and jack the car up when filling at the same time I execute the engine coolant procedure thereby filling this system like we do for radiator coolant in the 03/04.
How are you physically accomplishing all the bends?My Road Course setup in progress:
For max flow I'm running 1.25" aluminum tubing & 1.25" hose throughout my system. I used tubing because at 1.25" it's still as compact as 1" hose O.D. No sharp 90° fittings anywhere, all large radius bends. 45° & straight 20AN fittings at the intercooler. No Tee fittings for bypass, I welded 3/4" barbs to the main flow tubes instead.
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I have access to a mandrel tube bender. Pre-formed sections are pricier but available. (90, 45, 120, 180 degree bends) A long precisely formed tube with multiple bends gets tricky, a tiny error at one end results in a significant location change at the other. Mostly I cut sections, aligned as needed and welded, Like this tubeHow are you physically accomplishing all the bends?
@Stangra where did you get/find the aluminum tubing...My Road Course setup in progress:
For max flow I'm running 1.25" aluminum tubing & 1.25" hose throughout my system. I used tubing because at 1.25" it's still as compact as 1" hose O.D. No sharp 90° fittings anywhere, all large radius bends. 45° & straight 20AN fittings at the intercooler. No Tee fittings for bypass, I welded 3/4" barbs to the main flow tubes instead.
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Yes, fittings and sharp bends will add restriction to fluid flow.If you're serious about maintaining flow everyone should stop using those plastic short radius heater hose 90 fittings.
That short radius or turn will hurt flow. One may not be to bad but you keep adding them to your system and there could be a significant change in flow rate.
The other problem with them is the I.D. is smaller which creates another restriction in flow. They also tend to lack a chamfer on each end.
You would do better using a 1 inch hose barb to barb connector then add a long radius 90 degree elbow. There are different options out there that would allow you to accomplish this.
I got my tubing locally but you can probably find aluminum tubing near you with a quick Google search. If you go this way I recommend using 6061 aluminum alloy for reliable weld joints.@Stangra where did you get/find the aluminum tubing...
This has got me thinking of going this route. I don't plan on going with a tank in the rear. I have the true forged reservoirs and was thinking about modding it to 1" inlet and outlet. Going this route would allow me to leave reservoir stock. What's the advantages or disadvantages going parallel ? One concern is actually seeing full flow in reservoir. ThanksMy Road Course setup in progress:
For max flow I'm running 1.25" aluminum tubing & 1.25" hose throughout my system. I used tubing because at 1.25" it's still as compact as 1" hose O.D. No sharp 90° fittings anywhere, all large radius bends. 45° & straight 20AN fittings at the intercooler. No Tee fittings for bypass, I welded 3/4" barbs to the main flow tubes instead.
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The rate of flow we're trying to achieve is enough to create severe turbulence and aerate the fluid in the reservoir.This has got me thinking of going this route. I don't plan on going with a tank in the rear. I have the true forged reservoirs and was thinking about modding it to 1" inlet and outlet. Going this route would allow me to leave reservoir stock. What's the advantages or disadvantages going parallel ? One concern is actually seeing full flow in reservoir. Thanks
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Looking at pics with the 3/4 barbs. I assume the first pic is the supply to the plump and the lower reservoir hose attaches to it? The second pic is the return from the intercooler and the upper reservoir line attaches to that 3/4 barb? Looks clean and I plan on trying to fab some lines for my setup. ThanksThe rate of flow we're trying to achieve is enough to create severe turbulence and aerate the fluid in the reservoir.
Allowing most of the flow to bypass the reservoir prevents this, and no mods to your existing reservoir are needed. I'm running 1.25" tubing and ports throughout the system, and just "T"ed off the main flow to provide 3/4" inlet/outlet to the original degas. I don't get to see class VI whitewater blasting through, and that's the whole point. I only see enough flow to know it's moving, but I know it's moving!
Disadvantages?...
Can't think of any. Ok, extra plumbing and finding room for it.
Honestly I had more difficulty getting the rest of the 1.25" plumbing routed, this part was relatively simple.
If fabbing your own similar lines let me clarify one thing. It's hard to see because of the perspective of the photo but the 3/4" barb on the lower (pump inlet) line is not installed at a 90° angle, more like 60°, to promote some flow thru the reservoir.Looking at pics with the 3/4 barbs. I assume the first pic is the supply to the plump and the lower reservoir hose attaches to it? The second pic is the return from the intercooler and the upper reservoir line attaches to that 3/4 barb? Looks clean and I plan on trying to fab some lines for my setup. Thanks
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Yeah it's running and seems to be performing as expected. For my purposes it's what I need for 20 - 30 minute road course sessions with sustained high RPMs and repeated demands for WOT. Lots of air flow thru a huge H/E (no fans, they restrict air at these speeds) and lots of coolant flow thru the system to pull heat quickly. A trunk tank would just add unnecessary weight, complexity, make the pump work harder, and ice won't last long enough. If you're drag racing and run with ice to get IATs below ambient that's an entirely different strategy.Stangra,
Do you have this system operating yet? Trying to get ideas and not sure if I want to run a trunk tank or not. I like this idea to keep it simple.
Im going for drag n drive events so lots of street miles and a few passes at a time.Yeah it's running and seems to be performing as expected. For my purposes it's what I need for 20 - 30 minute road course sessions with sustained high RPMs and repeated demands for WOT. Lots of air flow thru a huge H/E (no fans, they restrict air at these speeds) and lots of coolant flow thru the system to pull heat quickly. A trunk tank would just add unnecessary weight, complexity, make the pump work harder, and ice won't last long enough. If you're drag racing and run with ice to get IATs below ambient that's an entirely different strategy.
Do you have any pics of the finished setup?Yeah it's running and seems to be performing as expected. For my purposes it's what I need for 20 - 30 minute road course sessions with sustained high RPMs and repeated demands for WOT. Lots of air flow thru a huge H/E (no fans, they restrict air at these speeds) and lots of coolant flow thru the system to pull heat quickly. A trunk tank would just add unnecessary weight, complexity, make the pump work harder, and ice won't last long enough. If you're drag racing and run with ice to get IATs below ambient that's an entirely different strategy.