Heat exchanger

biminiLX

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VMP went thru several designs to find the best option. I currently have a KB Bigun core in my GT500 so I’m very interested to compare the data once I swap to the VMP and 1” lines. My system already has 1” except for the intercooler brick to HE connection. I have adapters that go from factory HE outlet to 1” line. I have 1” line to and from the ice tank but when designed there wasn’t an easy solution for the less than 1” pinch point at the intercooler brick so the VMP now corrects that.
-J
 

65wildstang

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I plan on all 1" lines. I already have the vmp brick and manifold. Narrowed down to the afco or DOB heat exhanger with the Davies Craig ewp150 pump. I dont plan on running a reservoir in the trunk, so will be adding a 1" barbs to the reservoir in engine compartment. Still like installation on whipple. Thanks

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Justin@VMP

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Care to elaborate? I have been looking for actual data and have come up with very little.
We've had several customer datalog and they were previously experiencing 30-50F temp rises during a 5-8 sec wot pull...with the VMP by PWR core/intercooler brick they saw 10F MAX. The PWR core technology just transfers heat so much better. The entire system does have to be addresses, water flow must be kept up commensurate with boost level and you must have a decent heat exchanger up front or run ice all the time.
 

D-MANN

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I am installing the VMP triple pass heat exchanger with fans and 1" fittings in the next few days. I already have the H/E. Waiting on the crash bar. Also going with the VMP intercooler and water manifold. I am going with the Davies Craig Ewp150 for my I/C pump. The Stewart EMP pump is supposed to be the best but it's expensive and draws a lot of amps. I got the Davies Craig pump from summit for like $186 bucks. Should be here today. I just gotta figure out how I'm going to mount it. DO NOT order anything J2 unless you want to wait a year and be treated like you don't matter. I had the worst experience with that guy. I cannot believe he is still in business. Anyway, I will let you know how it goes if you want me to update you.

Thats the set up i want as well. Do you have part numbers for everything you ordered?


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Albatross

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VMP Heat exchanger: AFC-100208-1
VMP intercooler core: VMP-SUC037
VMP High flow manifold: VMP-SUC061
Davies Craig water pump: EWP150
Meziere fittings (2) for pump: WP16100S

I sourced the 1" heater hose locally from an auto parts store. Depending on how you mount everything, you may need to get one or two 90 degree heater hose elbows to make it easier.

You will need a MAF Racing GT500 front bumper in order to mount the VMP heat exchanger. There is no part number but this can be found on their website.

You will also need 30/40 amp relays to wire the fans for the heat exchanger. VMP sells a harness with relays to work with their fan setups (part #:VMP-ENC004) but I am doing my own wiring so I did not end up ordering that. You're going to want to use a 15 amp fuse on each circuit for the fans. The fans draw about 9 amps each (according to the data I found on the Spal website). This can be done with an add-a-circuit or an inline fuse holder. I have an electrical wiring diagram for the fans. I can send you a copy if you need it.

I'm sure there are some things I may be forgetting. I will probably start a new thread with all of this info in order to help others that want to run a similar setup. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
 

65wildstang

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VMP Heat exchanger: AFC-100208-1
VMP intercooler core: VMP-SUC037
VMP High flow manifold: VMP-SUC061
Davies Craig water pump: EWP150
Meziere fittings (2) for pump: WP16100S

I sourced the 1" heater hose locally from an auto parts store. Depending on how you mount everything, you may need to get one or two 90 degree heater hose elbows to make it easier.

You will need a MAF Racing GT500 front bumper in order to mount the VMP heat exchanger. There is no part number but this can be found on their website.

You will also need 30/40 amp relays to wire the fans for the heat exchanger. VMP sells a harness with relays to work with their fan setups (part #:VMP-ENC004) but I am doing my own wiring so I did not end up ordering that. You're going to want to use a 15 amp fuse on each circuit for the fans. The fans draw about 9 amps each (according to the data I found on the Spal website). This can be done with an add-a-circuit or an inline fuse holder. I have an electrical wiring diagram for the fans. I can send you a copy if you need it.

I'm sure there are some things I may be forgetting. I will probably start a new thread with all of this info in order to help others that want to run a similar setup. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I ordered my front bumper from vmp with brackets and powder coated. Still waiting on arrival. I plan on running the same setup as above. Keep us posted please on the pump mounting. Thanks
Screenshot_20211210-154231_Samsung%20Internet.jpeg


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Stangra

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I plan on all 1" lines. I already have the vmp brick and manifold. Narrowed down to the afco or DOB heat exhanger with the Davies Craig ewp150 pump. I dont plan on running a reservoir in the trunk, so will be adding a 1" barbs to the reservoir in engine compartment. Still like installation on whipple. Thanks

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You may want to think about running a 1" line in parallel with the reservoir, T's off that to run 3/4 to the resevoir, bypassing most of the flow. Full flow from a 1' fitting will create severe turbulence in the reservoir and likely aerate the coolant.
 

Blkkbgt

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Depending on how you mount everything, you may need to get one or two 90 degree heater hose elbows to make it easier.
If you're serious about maintaining flow everyone should stop using those plastic short radius heater hose 90 fittings.

That short radius or turn will hurt flow. One may not be to bad but you keep adding them to your system and there could be a significant change in flow rate.

The other problem with them is the I.D. is smaller which creates another restriction in flow. They also tend to lack a chamfer on each end.

You would do better using a 1 inch hose barb to barb connector then add a long radius 90 degree elbow. There are different options out there that would allow you to accomplish this.
 

Stangra

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If you're serious about maintaining flow everyone should stop using those plastic short radius heater hose 90 fittings.

That short radius or turn will hurt flow. One may not be to bad but you keep adding them to your system and there could be a significant change in flow rate.

The other problem with them is the I.D. is smaller which creates another restriction in flow. They also tend to lack a chamfer on each end.

You would do better using a 1 inch hose barb to barb connector then add a long radius 90 degree elbow. There are different options out there that would allow you to accomplish this.
↑↑↑ THIS ↑↑↑
 

01yellercobra

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You may want to think about running a 1" line in parallel with the reservoir, T's off that to run 3/4 to the resevoir, bypassing most of the flow. Full flow from a 1' fitting will create severe turbulence in the reservoir and likely aerate the coolant.
I keep looking at my tank and trying to figure out a way to do this cleanly. One guy did it in the GT500 forum, but there were a lot of hose clamps involved.
 

Stangra

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My Road Course setup in progress:

For max flow I'm running 1.25" aluminum tubing & 1.25" hose throughout my system. I used tubing because at 1.25" it's still as compact as 1" hose O.D. No sharp 90° fittings anywhere, all large radius bends. 45° & straight 20AN fittings at the intercooler. No Tee fittings for bypass, I welded 3/4" barbs to the main flow tubes instead.

intercooler 1.jpg
Intercooler 2.jpg
Intercooler 3.jpg
Intercooler 4.jpg
Intercooler 5p.jpg
Intercooler 6.jpg
Intercooler 7.jpg
 
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01yellercobra

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My Road Course setup in progress:

For max flow I'm running 1.25" aluminum tubing & 1.25" hose throughout my system. Used tubing because at 1.25" it's still as compact as 1" hose O.D. No sharp 90° fittings anywhere, all large radius bends. 45° & straight 20AN fittings. at the intercooler. No Tee fittings for bypass, I welded 3/4" barbs to the main flow tubes instead.

View attachment 1731092View attachment 1731093View attachment 1731082View attachment 1731083View attachment 1731085View attachment 1731087View attachment 1731088
Does your degas tank have one or two ports? I've thought about about only hooking up to the lower port on my intercooler tank and baffling the top one to release pressure.
 
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