I have a 08 with tvs and 2.5 pulley. I just installed a C&R he. Hooked it all up and test driving it. I used to peg the 15 psi stock gauge. Now it's only hitting about 12psi. And feels slightly slower at wot... any ideas?
Heat Exchanger installed - HP/Boost loss ???
- Thread starter thebuffalo11
- Start date
Did you get the tune revised after install?
No. A tune is needed for a heat exchanger? I didn't think that would affect anything.. if so I'll call vmp in the morning.
I believe they will change what temps the car starts to pull timing/power with added cooling mods.
They will, but the tune can't compensate for 3 PSI of boost.
If you are indeed loosing boost, I don't think its related to your install, check for belt slip.
the stock gauge is a POS. you need a real boost gauge (tap into vac line just below the front of the blower).
Also, a new heat exchanger will not require a new tune. It just makes the coolant cooler, which is a good thing.
I
You MIGHT have a boost leak, but I doubt it. It is probably the stock gauge not reading the correct amount of boost.
Also, a new heat exchanger will not require a new tune. It just makes the coolant cooler, which is a good thing.
I
You MIGHT have a boost leak, but I doubt it. It is probably the stock gauge not reading the correct amount of boost.
Well, if he used to peg it before and now he is not, and the only thing that changed is the H/E then he is probably losing boost.
The stock gauge goes wonky after a tune, but its still consistent.
Is the fluid moving? If not, don't go wot in the car! Your downstream temps will be high and you will be pulling timing.
You don't need a tune for the heat exchanger, but you do if you changed the thermostat.
make sure the h/e pump is plugged in
That's a good point, i had to plunger my reservoir after install to get the fluid moving. Coolant should be bubbling like crazy with the cap off.
Thermostat is stock, the only thing different from yesterday to today is the c&r dual fan kit. I think I installed right. The coolant in the h/E resivor is moving/ making a cyclone. So im asuming the kit is cycling the liquid. The fans turn on when the car starts (and they stay on 100% of time until the car is off (is this normal also?)
3# boost loss means an issue.
Need to datalog, I'm with BJ and if something not pulling temps, you should limit WOT.
Might have a water pocket, but you need to verify IATs
-J
Need to datalog, I'm with BJ and if something not pulling temps, you should limit WOT.
Might have a water pocket, but you need to verify IATs
-J
I would bet that there is an air pocket in the system and therefore it's pulling timing. Timing won't drop boost of course....belt slip?
You should let the IC pump run for at least 10 minutes to make sure there is no air pockets.
As for boost loss, you should check for belt slip, or it might be clutch slip since its an 08 unless you've replaced the clutch already.
Not sure. The belt has never slipped prior. Would be kinda wierd starts slipping same day I mod something unrelated.. to go along with the problem I stated before when I did go wot, it would immediately peak around 14-15psi then dip down to and stay around 12lbs. When prior it would just stay pegged at 15lbs..
Also not sure if related. But my exhaust smells like roses. Sweet roses.. I started using torco again. I've used in past and don't remember it making exhaust smell sweet. No smoke or excess dark exhaust fumes. Any ideas?
Also not sure if related. But my exhaust smells like roses. Sweet roses.. I started using torco again. I've used in past and don't remember it making exhaust smell sweet. No smoke or excess dark exhaust fumes. Any ideas?
Just put an rxt clutch 700 mile ago..
makes sure your intercooler pump is plugged in. Did you get a dual fan unit? make sure the wiring is installed correctly as well. If your intercooler isnt flowing the coolant, your definitely pulling timing. Not sure, but you could also be having the bypass valve open to protect the engine (my guestimate).
After reading OP’s post above: If the reservoir is circulating like a “cyclone”, is it possible to have an air bubble in the intercooler system?? And does pulling timing due to excessive IAT2 temps, (and are not excessive IAT2 temps rare with the fans going, and the HE pump circulating like a “cyclone”, unless the car is being driven ultra hard in the heat?), cause a loss in boost levels?
Can be kind of a tough analysis with basing this off a stock boost gauge and/or seat of the pants feel, (OP said: “And feels slightly slower at wot”). Maybe a datalog session is in order to determine IAT2’s, actual boost levels?
The only way I could get the air completely out of my system was to pull the lower hose and wait until it started to drain.
I had coolant circulating as well, but not as much.
I'm guessing that's what it is... but hard to say.
I had coolant circulating as well, but not as much.
I'm guessing that's what it is... but hard to say.
The H/E has absolutely nothing to do with losing boost, it has no effect whatsoever on boost. Its job is to cool the air coming in and thats it.
And since you did replace the clutch that leaves the belt or like lexustech said the bypass valve might be open, I think its the belt. You only have to look around the supercharger pulley and see if there is any kind of dust.
There won't any signs to let you know that the belt is going to slip in 2 days, it just will. Its just a coincidence that it started after the H/E install.
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