Hard Shifting? Come In!! The Fix!!

[03mgtermi]

Question.. This original thread started by adding friction modifier to existing fluid. Would it be better to add the modifier to my stock fluid or drain it out and replace it with the pennzoil synchromesh?

Just remove the drain plug on the side of the trans to drain it correct? Then fill from where the shifter is until it tops off?

personally, i would change the fluid out to syncromesh. earlier in the thread someone pointed out that tremec now recommends this fluid for T56's. if that doesn't solve your problem, then try switching back to stock fluid w/ friction modifier.

yesterday i installed steeda's clutch adjuster kit that includes a new cable, firewall adjuster, and clutch quadrant. this solved my problem completely. no more brick wall in any gear, even at higher RPM's. proper clutch adjustment might be something to look into if you haven't already. good luck

 

[Wicked46]

Just changed out my stock fluid for the pennzoil synchromesh. I feel a little difference, but not a night and day diff like a lot of you guys have seen. I have a spec 3+, fiore firewall adj. and quadrant. Normal driving still feels the same but 2nd-3rd shifts at higher RPM seems easier.

 

[mustangtw]

I have been having the same high rpm shifting problem with my car. The more I tighten up the clutch cable though, the easier it shifts at WOT. I found that I have to have a lot of preload on the fork if I want to have any chance of shifting fast at all. So much so, that I can grab the shifter and pull it out of gear without touching the clutch. I know the throwout bearing must be riding on the pp fingers, but I can't get it to shift good any other way. I am thinking centrifugal force or something might be pulling the fingers away from the throwout bearing at high rpms :shrug: I just don't want to put too much tension on the cable and cause the clutch to slip. BTW I changed to pennzoil synchromesh fluid and didn't notice any difference in how the car shifted.

 

[BoostFiend]

I know this thread has been more directed towards the type of fluid but I have another idea. I was having shifting problems with my '03 and it turns out that my stock 10 spline tranny input shaft was twisted. After a new 26 spline input, new clutch, and fresh RP tranny fluid it was soooo much easier to get into every gear. Just figued I would add another option.

 

[firemanmike]

op:op:op:

 

[ravenknight]

well another one here, after driving for an hour or so, cant get into reverse without grinding, sometimes 1st is a bear and definitly no high rpm quick shifts, this starting occuring about 2 months ago, last summer it was fine. also note a new factory clutch kit, tob, fork and flywheel last spring of 2008. The advisor called me and said the clutch was going bad due to a fork being bent, wtf, he said looks like due to bad previous install. So all new parts, drove great, I could slam gears with ease, have always had slight trouble when sitting and first go to put into reverse but seems like every stang I have owned had this problem. So fast forward, I stumbled onto this thread and changed the fluid to RP syncromesh and seemed great even reverse was easier, well yea that lasted a couple hours, decided to square up against a buddy and went to slam second and hit the wall, wtf. then parked and went to back up and grind slam into reverse. So Now I guess I will try a new clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster I will install. If that dont work I am pulling the trans and doing a spec 3+ clutch kit and spline. I guess it could be a twisted spline but why would the RP help then not? I am drawing the conclusion that the DEX III is fine but has to be changed every few months of driving?

 

[NeverFastEngh]

i used a $3 dollar plastic tube from autozone to fill mine through the fill hole. called a trans/diff fluid fill tube. screws right on to the top of the bottle and has its own on/off. other end fits nicely in the fill hole. just squeeze the bottle and pour the excess fluid in the next bottle. i didn't wanna mess with removing all the shifter stuff. pick your poison.

I just got a new one after wearing one out. They are a handy little tool.

I have been having the same high rpm shifting problem with my car. The more I tighten up the clutch cable though, the easier it shifts at WOT. I found that I have to have a lot of preload on the fork if I want to have any chance of shifting fast at all. So much so, that I can grab the shifter and pull it out of gear without touching the clutch. I know the throwout bearing must be riding on the pp fingers, but I can't get it to shift good any other way. I am thinking centrifugal force or something might be pulling the fingers away from the throwout bearing at high rpms :shrug: I just don't want to put too much tension on the cable and cause the clutch to slip. BTW I changed to pennzoil synchromesh fluid and didn't notice any difference in how the car shifted.

Go to a UPR speed release quadrant or the steed quick release (there the same). I had the MM tripple hook and was having problems shifting at WOT and tightened my clutch more than i should to get it to shift. Then i got the new quadrant and that little extra arc it has fixed it. It shifts great now. It pulls more cable in less time than the others.

 

[mustangtw]

I just got a new one after wearing one out. They are a handy little tool.



Go to a UPR speed release quadrant or the steed quick release (there the same). I had the MM tripple hook and was having problems shifting at WOT and tightened my clutch more than i should to get it to shift. Then i got the new quadrant and that little extra arc it has fixed it. It shifts great now. It pulls more cable in less time than the others.

Cool, just ordered the steeda quick release quadrant. I don't know what quadrant I have now, but I know it's probably not a quick release because it has 3 hook positions for the cable to ride. From the pics I've seen the quick release quads only have 1. I'll post up when I get it installed and how it drives. Thanks!!! :beer:

 

[mustangtw]

Cool, just ordered the steeda quick release quadrant. I don't know what quadrant I have now, but I know it's probably not a quick release because it has 3 hook positions for the cable to ride. From the pics I've seen the quick release quads only have 1. I'll post up when I get it installed and how it drives. Thanks!!! :beer:

Just installed steeda quick release quad, and all I can say is wow. Who knew it could be so simple. It shifts great now at any rpm. No more granny shifting this thing, time to let her rip. Throwing that triple hook p.o.s in the garbadge. :rockon:

 

[Wicked46]

How does the steeda quadrant compare to the Fiore quadrant. I have the Fiore quadrant and firewall adjuster. Is the Steeda or UPR better?

 

[mustangtw]

I've never used a fiore quad, but looking at the pic online it does look similar to the steeda. Where does your clutch grab at? It will probably help if your clutch is engaging close to the floor. I had to put loads of tension on my cable/clutch fork with the triple hook I was using to even get it to engage halfway up. As soon as I put on the steeda quick release, with little to no tension on the cable it engages close to the top now.

 

[Wicked46]

I can get my clutch to engage wherever i want with the adjuster.

 

[mustangtw]

^where does it engage with the cable snug and no excess tension pulling on the fork? With my triple hook I had to bring the firewall adjuster all the way out to get it to release halfway and I had a lot of tension on the cable and was pulling the fork causing the throwout bearing to ride on the pp. Then it would loose that adjustment after awhile and start grabbing near the floor again. With the steeda quick release all I need is just enough tension to hold the cable tight in the quad and it will release closer to the top. If you are releasing close to the top already, then chances are a new quad will not help. If it's releasing close to the floor then chances are it is not disengaging all the way at high rpms. U want it to engage near the top without having to over tighten the cable with the firewall adjuster.

 

[jtcstrat]

D&D just built my trans and they told me to use mobil 1 ATF

 

[MileHighTurbo]

Sorry not trying to beat a dead horse with this thread resurection,but heres my situation i bought my 04 in aug of 09

had hard shift from 1 to 2 at high rpm,did a search found this thread ,changed fluid to

penz/SM, made a little differance,smoother but not great,bought a firewall

adj,quadrant,still have hard shift from 1 to 2, still looking for that "butter shifting" people claim!!

i dont know what clutch is in it,it looks like a stock type,car has 58k on it.

just trying to figure this out before i make more power with it,

it does shift fine with normal driving

any input/insight is appreciated

 

[greengt88]

i have royal purple synchromax, a pro 5.0 shifter, and a MM Quadrant, modified stock cable and firewall adj. also have LDC Freeplay mod. i like the LDC so much i want to put one on my foxbody. I has the "hitting the wall" symptoms as well but the fluid change and shifter fixed that. The other parts were the icing on the cake. Can't wait to get it back from the body shop and get the new clutch and 26T input and new TOB Retainer in theere!! Should be even better, i may wait though and upgrade to a t-56 magnum or viper spec model.

 

[jimbob8915]

Wish I had read this BEFORE spending $55 for 4 quarts of RP Synchromax from Summitt. Have not put in atf yet but now I wonder if my input shaft is tweaked. I have 305 BF goodrich drag radials on back and a twin disc McLeod clutch, it has a firewall adjustable cable and clutch quadrant, cable adjusted to no play but still have really hard time going into first gear from neutral

 

[Wicked46]

Update: I had some transmission issues and had the transmission pulled apart by a mechanic friend at the dealership (Trans guy doing some side work for me). My 3-4th gear synchro was failing and the blocker rings were worn. I started having grinding issue after switching to Pennzoil synchromesh.
Yes, I made sure there was enough fluid in after replacing the old stuff. My transmission guy says that the GM fluid is to oily, and could be why my blocker rings wore out quicker. Not sure if i'll be putting this stuff back in or if this was just a coincidence.