Always been a little curious of how my car would look with a gold wheel setup. Took some pics of it setup with the Signature Wheel Reserved SV902 in Royal Gold.
Han Solo Got a Shelby GT350
- Thread starter 50 Deep
- Start date
The fox has some really good qualities about it. One of them being the surviving paint job that it has now. The body itself is very straight with only a few minor scratches and dents. The worst paint area on the car was the aftermarket hood, and it has some peeling clear coat. For some reason the previous owner decided to spray the cowl vent and windshield wipers to match the car. One of the first things I plan to change.
I bought the car at night and then stored it at my brother’s house. By the time I saw it again in the daylight it was filthy. Decided to drop the car off at Imperial Works in Sacramento to see what they can do with it. They did all the outstanding detail work on my GT350R. Told them to get to it whenever and see if it can be brought back to life. Got the call to pick the car up after a few weeks and check it out. I can say that It was definitely a happy experience. The factory paint job cleaned up extremely well for some polishing and paint correction. Ceramic coating will come later and I look forward to those results.
I bought the car at night and then stored it at my brother’s house. By the time I saw it again in the daylight it was filthy. Decided to drop the car off at Imperial Works in Sacramento to see what they can do with it. They did all the outstanding detail work on my GT350R. Told them to get to it whenever and see if it can be brought back to life. Got the call to pick the car up after a few weeks and check it out. I can say that It was definitely a happy experience. The factory paint job cleaned up extremely well for some polishing and paint correction. Ceramic coating will come later and I look forward to those results.
In order to make the Fox worthy of track use I know there are a plethora of areas to be addressed. In my experience it is better to learn on a slow car with a sorted suspension, than a fast car with a suspension system that is out of whack. This will be handled thanks to Griggs Racing.
While those Griggs components are being built, I am going to work on some aero, aesthetics, and reduction of heat. One of the first parts to get installed will be a Trackspec Motorsports hood vent. As seen with other Mustang models and aerodynamic testing the best location for the vent is directly behind the radiator. This helps to pull hot air up, through, and out of the radiator. At speed it will also help to prevent lift by reducing under hood pressure. I looked over some installation tips from FJD Performance about using tape to locate the spot directly behind the shroud. After some quick measurements with the template from Trackspec it was time to get cutting.
Used a Ryobi angle grinder with a cutting wheel and some prayer to get this done. A file came in handy for those corners where you did not want to run to far. Some work with a rivet gun and the deed was done. The first cut is definitely the hardest, but once you realize you cant go back it gets easier. This hood vent is made for the S550 and based on the GT4 car. The supplied rivets are too short to go through my aftermarket hood so some longer ones had to be sourced. Looks good though.
Working for a wheel company and playing around on track have taught me the importance of lightweight wheels to reduce unspring weight. Having a setup that is strong, stiff, provides adequate caliper clearance, has proper fitment, and leaves you with enough threads for your lug nuts is tough to find. Not to mention the lack of available wheels for the 4-lug platform. To start I will build the new Signature Wheel Reserved SV902 in a 4 lug for the car. Eventually the car will see a 5-lug swap due to my desire to run the Griggs SLA up front, but for those with no need to swap we will have some excellent custom-built options. Here is a peek at what is coming. You will notice the front is not concave due to the amount of protrusion from the front hub/bearing. A concave wheel will not allow the front center cap to fit, which always drive me insane with I see it. These will be a direct bolt on to any 4-lug car, will not require any modification, and the front center cap will fit. Not to mention weighing only 20-22lbs in an 18x9 / 18x10.
While those Griggs components are being built, I am going to work on some aero, aesthetics, and reduction of heat. One of the first parts to get installed will be a Trackspec Motorsports hood vent. As seen with other Mustang models and aerodynamic testing the best location for the vent is directly behind the radiator. This helps to pull hot air up, through, and out of the radiator. At speed it will also help to prevent lift by reducing under hood pressure. I looked over some installation tips from FJD Performance about using tape to locate the spot directly behind the shroud. After some quick measurements with the template from Trackspec it was time to get cutting.
Used a Ryobi angle grinder with a cutting wheel and some prayer to get this done. A file came in handy for those corners where you did not want to run to far. Some work with a rivet gun and the deed was done. The first cut is definitely the hardest, but once you realize you cant go back it gets easier. This hood vent is made for the S550 and based on the GT4 car. The supplied rivets are too short to go through my aftermarket hood so some longer ones had to be sourced. Looks good though.
Working for a wheel company and playing around on track have taught me the importance of lightweight wheels to reduce unspring weight. Having a setup that is strong, stiff, provides adequate caliper clearance, has proper fitment, and leaves you with enough threads for your lug nuts is tough to find. Not to mention the lack of available wheels for the 4-lug platform. To start I will build the new Signature Wheel Reserved SV902 in a 4 lug for the car. Eventually the car will see a 5-lug swap due to my desire to run the Griggs SLA up front, but for those with no need to swap we will have some excellent custom-built options. Here is a peek at what is coming. You will notice the front is not concave due to the amount of protrusion from the front hub/bearing. A concave wheel will not allow the front center cap to fit, which always drive me insane with I see it. These will be a direct bolt on to any 4-lug car, will not require any modification, and the front center cap will fit. Not to mention weighing only 20-22lbs in an 18x9 / 18x10.
[bcolor=transparent]The Fox is not an inherently aerodynamic vehicle. Inbound to help with some of those issues are components from Carters Customs. The owner Adam Carter is an engineer by trade and does an excellent job making all of these parts himself. Install on these cannot come soon enough. The car will see his front splitter, fender vents, rear diffuser, side skirts (once developed) and a Steeda Aero Spoiler.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]On the subject of aerodynamics I also was able to get a set of custom LED intake lights made courtesy of Stuart Gaskins of Premium Fuel Mag. These were created and developed as an idea to get more air flow into the radiator and liven up the front end of the car. They are out of production but some persuasion made it possible to get another set built for my car. They operate a white LED during normal operation and flash orange like a turn signal. Cant wait to get them. Part of my plan to build the car as a complete package is modernization of the systems.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]On the subject of aerodynamics I also was able to get a set of custom LED intake lights made courtesy of Stuart Gaskins of Premium Fuel Mag. These were created and developed as an idea to get more air flow into the radiator and liven up the front end of the car. They are out of production but some persuasion made it possible to get another set built for my car. They operate a white LED during normal operation and flash orange like a turn signal. Cant wait to get them. Part of my plan to build the car as a complete package is modernization of the systems.[/bcolor]
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Getting ready for Fabulous Fords Forever.
New background. Sick!
I was already following this thread because of the GT-350 but now with the fox I am really interested. I have been thinking about the Griggs sla set up for awhile. I haven't seen many pics outside of Griggs website of it.
Thanks man. More to come soon.
I will have some more updated pics to share for you. I think you will like it.
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Making some progress with the suspension install. Took a trip up to Sonoma to meet the man Bruce Griggs himself. Pretty cool experience to wander around the shop a bit. Had some good conversation, learned a lot about the science behind the suspension components, and then headed back home. Lots of goodies
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I spent a little time assembling the coil over kit on the Griggs Racing Varishock. Also did the install on the rear bump stops.
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I found a good deal on some Koni yellow double adjustable struts locally and they will be used for the front coil over kit. Not going overboard on the front as an SLA is in the future. I will say that I miss the days you could find anything you needed for a Foxbody build on Craigslist for pennies on the dollar and at a moments notice.
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New 18” Signature Wheel Reserved SV902 came in. These are an 18x9 / 18x10 4-lug direct bolt on to any Foxbody. Designed to fit with only removal of the rear quad shock while sporting 255/35/18 & 285/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Got the tires mounted thanks to Premier Mobile tire that came to the house. Then I did some test fitting and love the look. Weights came in at 20/22 lbs which will be great for track use and an overall more enjoyable and nimble car.
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I also built a set of Signature Wheel Flagship Series FOUR for my brothers 86 coupe build. He will have an IRS setup and narrower front fenders so these are an 18x8.5 / 18x9.5. Weighing in at 22lbs each they will be an excellent lightweight wheel for street/track use.
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Had to do a quick test fit so I could sleep that night.
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I wanted to update the car to modern standards so I ordered some Redline Hood/Hatch Struts. These little things go a long way
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[bcolor=transparent]Next up was to get the suspension setup ready for install. On the rear you will find the Griggs Racing setup is very well constructed. I upgraded the lower shock mounts to accommodate the added load being placed on them. This required enlarging the bolt holes to fit the larger grade 8 hardware from Griggs.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]The upper shock mount comes with a custom perch to mount the spherical shock bearing too. This allows for more movement and less bind. Some simple trimming with some snips gives you the room needed to get it installed.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Snuck out to get the Carters Customs rear diffuser mounted. Easy enough task and really like the rivnuts. Although I spent almost 2 hours trying to figure out how to properly use the rivnut gun that I bought.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Can’t have the rear diffuser without a matching Carters Customs front splitter…[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Over the course of time spent on the rear suspension the new Baer brakes arrived. This is the 13” 6-piston front setup and 13” 4-piston rear with internal parking brake. Slotted rotors were selected to hold up to track use. I selected Baer as they are one of the only manufacturers to have a 4-lug brake upgrade. I have also had a hard on for their Arizona copper caliper color for years. [/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]This brake setup comes on a custom spindle that is beefier than the OEM piece. You can also select to have the spindle assembled with a larger hub bearing to withstand the abuse of track time. Naturally I went for that option.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Since the rear axles had to be removed to dump the OEM brakes I went ahead and bought the Ford Performance carbon fiber clutch packs to rebuild the posi unit. This was my first time rebuilding a posi unit on my own, and thankfully it was a rather smooth process. Basic hand tools, a mallet, and some YouTube videos gave some tips on how to complete the process and get the S-spring back in. Compressing the spring with vice grips and then using a small wrench to prevent them from expanding was cool.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Went ahead and upgraded the wheel studs to ensure they would be strong enough for track use. ARP units were selected for the task and the finish. I found that trying to press in the studs using an impact gun damages the finish. Ended up buying a press from harbor freight and doing it that way. If I end up buying components new again I will spend the extra money to have the manufacturer press them in.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]The upper shock mount comes with a custom perch to mount the spherical shock bearing too. This allows for more movement and less bind. Some simple trimming with some snips gives you the room needed to get it installed.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Snuck out to get the Carters Customs rear diffuser mounted. Easy enough task and really like the rivnuts. Although I spent almost 2 hours trying to figure out how to properly use the rivnut gun that I bought.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Can’t have the rear diffuser without a matching Carters Customs front splitter…[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Over the course of time spent on the rear suspension the new Baer brakes arrived. This is the 13” 6-piston front setup and 13” 4-piston rear with internal parking brake. Slotted rotors were selected to hold up to track use. I selected Baer as they are one of the only manufacturers to have a 4-lug brake upgrade. I have also had a hard on for their Arizona copper caliper color for years. [/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]This brake setup comes on a custom spindle that is beefier than the OEM piece. You can also select to have the spindle assembled with a larger hub bearing to withstand the abuse of track time. Naturally I went for that option.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Since the rear axles had to be removed to dump the OEM brakes I went ahead and bought the Ford Performance carbon fiber clutch packs to rebuild the posi unit. This was my first time rebuilding a posi unit on my own, and thankfully it was a rather smooth process. Basic hand tools, a mallet, and some YouTube videos gave some tips on how to complete the process and get the S-spring back in. Compressing the spring with vice grips and then using a small wrench to prevent them from expanding was cool.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Went ahead and upgraded the wheel studs to ensure they would be strong enough for track use. ARP units were selected for the task and the finish. I found that trying to press in the studs using an impact gun damages the finish. Ended up buying a press from harbor freight and doing it that way. If I end up buying components new again I will spend the extra money to have the manufacturer press them in.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Finally got all the components installed and time for fluid to be put back in the system. New Griggs Racing rear diff cover, torque arm plate, and redline fluid are set. Decided to upgrade the transmission mount as well with a Stifflers piece.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]The brake install ended up being a total pain the ass. The Baer components went on just fine, but the car fought me along the way. Both the front brake hard lines were adamant about staying with the OEM brake lines. Stripped both the front hard lines trying to get the off. Several days of trying to cut and flare my own lines were time wasted. Initially I talked myself out of buying new pre-bent front hard lines, and that was a mistake. Went ahead and spent the money for new ones and within 2 hours I was done. Highly recommend that for anyone who finds themselves in the same boat. Chose to use the 1” Baer remaster and keep the OEM booster. Installation was pretty straight forward but still used the MM adapters for the 3-2 port conversion. The maximum motorsports pieces aren’t designed for the Remaster so I still needed to custom bend some lines. I may end up doing some custom stainless-steel braided lines from the master cylinder in the future.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Got the car out to the alignment shop on its maiden voyage. In some ways I don’t miss the uneasy feeling of taking a Foxbody out on the street for the first time after working on it. However, the feeling of building something with your own hands is rewarding.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]I still have some brake bleeding and adjustments to make but here are some pictures of how it sits now. Really pleased with the Carters Customs LX Street front splitter and rear diffuser. Looking forward to the side splitters he is developing and should be out soon.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]And of course, what is a hatchback Foxbody without the Steeda Aero spoiler….[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]If you like the wheel/tire setup let me know. Now that I have accomplished the goal of building this all around 4-lug setup I am likely going to build a maximum fitment one. Good time to jump in on these if you want. More to come in the future. Forgive any pics oriented the wrong way. This free pic uploader is well…… free….[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]The brake install ended up being a total pain the ass. The Baer components went on just fine, but the car fought me along the way. Both the front brake hard lines were adamant about staying with the OEM brake lines. Stripped both the front hard lines trying to get the off. Several days of trying to cut and flare my own lines were time wasted. Initially I talked myself out of buying new pre-bent front hard lines, and that was a mistake. Went ahead and spent the money for new ones and within 2 hours I was done. Highly recommend that for anyone who finds themselves in the same boat. Chose to use the 1” Baer remaster and keep the OEM booster. Installation was pretty straight forward but still used the MM adapters for the 3-2 port conversion. The maximum motorsports pieces aren’t designed for the Remaster so I still needed to custom bend some lines. I may end up doing some custom stainless-steel braided lines from the master cylinder in the future.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]Got the car out to the alignment shop on its maiden voyage. In some ways I don’t miss the uneasy feeling of taking a Foxbody out on the street for the first time after working on it. However, the feeling of building something with your own hands is rewarding.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]I still have some brake bleeding and adjustments to make but here are some pictures of how it sits now. Really pleased with the Carters Customs LX Street front splitter and rear diffuser. Looking forward to the side splitters he is developing and should be out soon.[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]And of course, what is a hatchback Foxbody without the Steeda Aero spoiler….[/bcolor]
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[bcolor=transparent]If you like the wheel/tire setup let me know. Now that I have accomplished the goal of building this all around 4-lug setup I am likely going to build a maximum fitment one. Good time to jump in on these if you want. More to come in the future. Forgive any pics oriented the wrong way. This free pic uploader is well…… free….[/bcolor]
Two things - how in the heck is the rear diffuser mounted? Nobody ever shows the mounting points.
The spindle scares me a little. Who welded the caliper tabs on in place of the sawed off bosses? Just being honest T.
I love what you are doing with this car and you have way exceeded what I thought you were going to do.
The spindle scares me a little. Who welded the caliper tabs on in place of the sawed off bosses? Just being honest T.
I love what you are doing with this car and you have way exceeded what I thought you were going to do.
You’re going to love the Griggs even without the SLA front. Can’t wait for your comparison between the fox Griggs and the 350R in the corners.
I usually wait until the second date to talk about mounting points
Always appreciate your honesty and engineering perspective. As a layman it looks good to me, but not sure on their process for construction.
Car has taken on its own life now. I am just along for the ride. Look forward to the day we have our foxes out on track together.
Appreciate that man. Hope it continues to get better.
Any updates?
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