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SVT Shelby GT500
GT500 dirty brake fluid
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<blockquote data-quote="Robert M" data-source="post: 16507234" data-attributes="member: 9628"><p>If dirt (clutch dust) was coming from the clutch/bell housing area, which has been mentioned on the forum in the past, there would be a leak in the system that is allowing clutch dust to get into the clutch hydraulic system and that would require the clutch disc dust pressure (bell housing area) to be fully sealed and greater than the clutch hydraulic system pressure, neither of which is is the case. Some have also mentioned clutch heat.......If it was that hot, the oem plastic clutch line would be melted, again, not the case.......</p><p></p><p>The reason why the clutch hydraulic system gets brown/black is because of rust, rust from the shared brake system. DOT 3 fluid attracts moisture and that moisture rusts the inside of that brake lines in the brake system........The WORST thing to do during a brake pad change is to depress the pistons back into the caliper (which is common) for a pad change, before fully flushing the system (which is not common) and push all of the rusty fluid back into the M/C reservoir. Once that nasty/contaminated brake fluid is in the M/C reservoir, it settles to the bottom and guess where it goes??......to the rear nipple that feeds the clutch M/C and down to the lowest point......the TOB and everything above in that system. The rust contamination is heavier than the fluid, every time the clutch pedal is pushed it sucks fluid into the system and gravity works, the heavier contaminants make their way to the lowest point.....</p><p></p><p>If an owner fully flushes the brake system and clutch system and keeps clean fluid in the brake system from that point forward through regular maint. with full flushes of the brake system, that will minimize the contamination of the clutch system in the future.</p><p></p><p>Below is the brake fluid for my 2008 at 600 original miles when I upgraded to Baer Extreme 6S rears. The fluid was already (at very low miles) beginning to look like tea (instead of pee)....</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1667586[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The rust was already starting at 600 original miles, and that brown/black rust settles in the lowest part of the system.......the clutch system......</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1667587[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>^^^^^This is a car that has never been out in the rain (humid conditions) and has been stored in a A/C garage all of it's life. If you drive a car in humid conditions, the amount of moisture absorbed into the brake fluid is even greater. As the brake pads get thinner (through use), the amount of humid air is greater in the M/C and the moisture absorbs into the system causing more rust. The wisest thing to do is keep that contaminated fluid out of the system through full flushing.....</p><p></p><p>I would have to look back at the fluid I used in my brake system, I believe it was DOT 5.1.......but in reality, that is still a moisture absorbing petroleum based fluid that attracts moisture, the only benefit of the 5.1 is temperature, it is higher than DOT3 and DOT4. The best fluid would be DOT5 Silicone fluid that is not petroleum based and does not absorb moisture.......BUT, it is not recommended for ABS systems, so that is not an option.......</p><p></p><p>R</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robert M, post: 16507234, member: 9628"] If dirt (clutch dust) was coming from the clutch/bell housing area, which has been mentioned on the forum in the past, there would be a leak in the system that is allowing clutch dust to get into the clutch hydraulic system and that would require the clutch disc dust pressure (bell housing area) to be fully sealed and greater than the clutch hydraulic system pressure, neither of which is is the case. Some have also mentioned clutch heat.......If it was that hot, the oem plastic clutch line would be melted, again, not the case....... The reason why the clutch hydraulic system gets brown/black is because of rust, rust from the shared brake system. DOT 3 fluid attracts moisture and that moisture rusts the inside of that brake lines in the brake system........The WORST thing to do during a brake pad change is to depress the pistons back into the caliper (which is common) for a pad change, before fully flushing the system (which is not common) and push all of the rusty fluid back into the M/C reservoir. Once that nasty/contaminated brake fluid is in the M/C reservoir, it settles to the bottom and guess where it goes??......to the rear nipple that feeds the clutch M/C and down to the lowest point......the TOB and everything above in that system. The rust contamination is heavier than the fluid, every time the clutch pedal is pushed it sucks fluid into the system and gravity works, the heavier contaminants make their way to the lowest point..... If an owner fully flushes the brake system and clutch system and keeps clean fluid in the brake system from that point forward through regular maint. with full flushes of the brake system, that will minimize the contamination of the clutch system in the future. Below is the brake fluid for my 2008 at 600 original miles when I upgraded to Baer Extreme 6S rears. The fluid was already (at very low miles) beginning to look like tea (instead of pee).... [ATTACH=full]1667586[/ATTACH] The rust was already starting at 600 original miles, and that brown/black rust settles in the lowest part of the system.......the clutch system...... [ATTACH=full]1667587[/ATTACH] ^^^^^This is a car that has never been out in the rain (humid conditions) and has been stored in a A/C garage all of it's life. If you drive a car in humid conditions, the amount of moisture absorbed into the brake fluid is even greater. As the brake pads get thinner (through use), the amount of humid air is greater in the M/C and the moisture absorbs into the system causing more rust. The wisest thing to do is keep that contaminated fluid out of the system through full flushing..... I would have to look back at the fluid I used in my brake system, I believe it was DOT 5.1.......but in reality, that is still a moisture absorbing petroleum based fluid that attracts moisture, the only benefit of the 5.1 is temperature, it is higher than DOT3 and DOT4. The best fluid would be DOT5 Silicone fluid that is not petroleum based and does not absorb moisture.......BUT, it is not recommended for ABS systems, so that is not an option....... R [/QUOTE]
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