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<blockquote data-quote="sleek98" data-source="post: 15477702" data-attributes="member: 144145"><p>Trans tunnel items</p><p></p><p>Since I am doing the swap in my garage I decided to lower the K member instead of jacking the front of the motor up. I have a BMR K member so I lowered it to the end of the bolts on the frame and took out the bolts on the rear. I let it rest in jack stands so the motor could tilt back when needed and the trans slid right out like butter.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimage.org" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/uhf6bjhaf/IMG_6911_zpsprhzjkpb.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Next up is removing the pilot bearing out of the back of the crank. I used a 5/8 x 5" bolt and wrapped a couple layers of tape around it to make a snug fit. Stuffed it with play doh and it came out in about 30 seconds.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimage.org" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/46k5zbtjb/D31FDC9A_6507_42ED_B78C_63A34F379C6D_zpssl7mgvbd.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimage.org" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/homgxvgav/7C4F620F_3C36_4C7E_9CEE_1C2FC74A1C8E_zpsu566a6qp.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Got the flexplate in. I used the ARP flexplate bolts but you can use Ford bolts as well. The tq values are different between the two. I have attached both charts.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimg.org/image/s9oz4qfyb/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/8rubosj0n/IMG_7084.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimg.org/image/ff2y0uwqr/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/miatgh26f/2016_12_02_09_15_53_Flexplate_install.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Got the trans in, noticed the bell housing to engine bolts are different. The TR6060 are shorter. The bolts you need I believe are M10x1.5x80mm. No one locally to me had any in stock, and after talking with a rep at nuts and bolts no one will make that bolt with the correct head on it. the bolts needed are part number W714012-S439. Thanks Danny for giving me the part number for the bolts. Called the local dealer on Monday morning (7:30 am) and the bolts showed up Tuesday at 2pm.</p><p></p><p>Old bolt vs new bolts</p><p><a href="https://postimage.org" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/bm2ziq8g7/IMG_7146.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Surprisingly the tq spec on them is not very high only 35 ft lbs. The Top two are the hardest to get tq to spec.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimg.org/image/ap15nlmbn/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/ngfbu3w3r/2016_12_14_09_05_28_ALLDATAdiy_com_2012_Ford_M.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p></p><p>Don't forget to index the torque converter if using an aftermarket one that uses bolts instead of the studs like the factory one. I got lucky that I was only off about an 1/8 of an inch and was able to spin it a touch through the starter hole in the trans.</p><p></p><p>Getting the trans cooler lines are a pain in the ass to get in. It hugs the frame around the ac compressor. There is a bracket that I am guessing bolts to the motor mount bracket on the 5.0 but doesn't quite fit on the 5.4. I have a BMR k-member, not sure how it would squeeze in if you still have the stock k member.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://postimg.org/image/n90vp2zwj/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/mji3cpzd3/IMG_7156.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Also FYI you need the disconnect tool to get the lines disconnected so I would recomend not putting the lines in until your sure of your routing. I picked up the tool from oreillys for 10 bucks, they had it out on the shelf.</p><p></p><p>I ran the trans harness along the passenger side and stuffed it up between the body and the trans, the 02 harness are stupid long for the driver side and barely any length for the passenger side. I ended up zip tieing the driver side harness to the cooler lines as it was long enough to run it around the pan rather than under the pan.</p><p></p><p>Also would highly recommend running a tap through the drive shaft bolt threads on the rear end. There was so much gunk in there from the factory lock tight and the second round of lock tight I added when I put in the alum shaft for the 6060. Threads are M10 x 1.5. There was a pretty good pile of crap on the ground after cleaning all 6 out.</p><p></p><p>Here are the tq values for the driveshaft</p><p><a href="https://postimg.org/image/rt9qi5web/" target="_blank"><img src="https://s5.postimg.org/42ad01w7b/IMG_7170.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a><a href="https://postimage.org/" target="_blank">https://postimage.org/</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sleek98, post: 15477702, member: 144145"] Trans tunnel items Since I am doing the swap in my garage I decided to lower the K member instead of jacking the front of the motor up. I have a BMR K member so I lowered it to the end of the bolts on the frame and took out the bolts on the rear. I let it rest in jack stands so the motor could tilt back when needed and the trans slid right out like butter. [URL='https://postimage.org'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/uhf6bjhaf/IMG_6911_zpsprhzjkpb.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Next up is removing the pilot bearing out of the back of the crank. I used a 5/8 x 5" bolt and wrapped a couple layers of tape around it to make a snug fit. Stuffed it with play doh and it came out in about 30 seconds. [URL='https://postimage.org'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/46k5zbtjb/D31FDC9A_6507_42ED_B78C_63A34F379C6D_zpssl7mgvbd.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL='https://postimage.org'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/homgxvgav/7C4F620F_3C36_4C7E_9CEE_1C2FC74A1C8E_zpsu566a6qp.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Got the flexplate in. I used the ARP flexplate bolts but you can use Ford bolts as well. The tq values are different between the two. I have attached both charts. [URL='https://postimg.org/image/s9oz4qfyb/'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/8rubosj0n/IMG_7084.png[/IMG][/URL] [URL='https://postimg.org/image/ff2y0uwqr/'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/miatgh26f/2016_12_02_09_15_53_Flexplate_install.png[/IMG][/URL] Got the trans in, noticed the bell housing to engine bolts are different. The TR6060 are shorter. The bolts you need I believe are M10x1.5x80mm. No one locally to me had any in stock, and after talking with a rep at nuts and bolts no one will make that bolt with the correct head on it. the bolts needed are part number W714012-S439. Thanks Danny for giving me the part number for the bolts. Called the local dealer on Monday morning (7:30 am) and the bolts showed up Tuesday at 2pm. Old bolt vs new bolts [URL='https://postimage.org'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/bm2ziq8g7/IMG_7146.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Surprisingly the tq spec on them is not very high only 35 ft lbs. The Top two are the hardest to get tq to spec. [URL='https://postimg.org/image/ap15nlmbn/'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/ngfbu3w3r/2016_12_14_09_05_28_ALLDATAdiy_com_2012_Ford_M.png[/IMG][/URL] Don't forget to index the torque converter if using an aftermarket one that uses bolts instead of the studs like the factory one. I got lucky that I was only off about an 1/8 of an inch and was able to spin it a touch through the starter hole in the trans. Getting the trans cooler lines are a pain in the ass to get in. It hugs the frame around the ac compressor. There is a bracket that I am guessing bolts to the motor mount bracket on the 5.0 but doesn't quite fit on the 5.4. I have a BMR k-member, not sure how it would squeeze in if you still have the stock k member. [URL='https://postimg.org/image/n90vp2zwj/'][IMG]https://s5.postimg.org/mji3cpzd3/IMG_7156.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Also FYI you need the disconnect tool to get the lines disconnected so I would recomend not putting the lines in until your sure of your routing. I picked up the tool from oreillys for 10 bucks, they had it out on the shelf. I ran the trans harness along the passenger side and stuffed it up between the body and the trans, the 02 harness are stupid long for the driver side and barely any length for the passenger side. I ended up zip tieing the driver side harness to the cooler lines as it was long enough to run it around the pan rather than under the pan. Also would highly recommend running a tap through the drive shaft bolt threads on the rear end. There was so much gunk in there from the factory lock tight and the second round of lock tight I added when I put in the alum shaft for the 6060. Threads are M10 x 1.5. There was a pretty good pile of crap on the ground after cleaning all 6 out. Here are the tq values for the driveshaft [url=https://postimg.org/image/rt9qi5web/][img]https://s5.postimg.org/42ad01w7b/IMG_7170.png[/img][/url][url=https://postimage.org/][/url] [/QUOTE]
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