Got time to kill?.... come build your engine

Nolimit

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As the title says...if you got time to kill....long post.....

So my cobra needs a engine, rebuild time now :pepper: and i have finally saved up enough hard earned cash to rebuild and get her back on the road. After working hard for that money and doing my research trying to decide which rebuild route i wanted to take and what parts i want to use, i kept finding info on the remans and i am very tempted to go forward with a ford re-manufactured engine from ford and saving the cash!! something like 4-5k for a brand new long block with the new revisded heads! That would let me pocket about 5-6k or spend that somewhere else on the car. There are quite a few members that can vouche for them.


I have been having doing my research on the different paths i can take with this and have looked through some previous builds that have been submitted. I have quite a few options i know, so i decided to make a thread and see if it would help my decision...if it dosent hit it will just get washed away to the back of the threads and disapear and be forgotten.

So after doing research ( still not done ) i decided to make a thread i have not come across...yet....

If you had to rebuild your motor or build a engine for your terminator and did not have a budget like most of us in the real world do... how would you build your engine??!! I am interested to see what everyone post and submits because we are all different in every way and thus we have our reasons for our decisions!

I am still not 100% sure how i will be handling my car but im thinking something like this...

1. Boss Big Bore Block
2. Billet Rods ( either Manley, CP or Oliver) or resusing the stock cobra rods
3. PNP my 03 cobra heads or Revised Cobra Heads w/ 9 thread
4. +1mm oversized valves with springs and retainers if need be
5. CP, Manley or Diamond pistons
6. Stock cams??? Maybe STG 2 or 3 Cams ....

Some things i am still unsure of are things like what cams to go with? I hear the stock cams are so good.

What about stroking it? More displacement dose not sound so bad idea, but i read about the pistons coming out of the cylinder too much.

Then i come across issues like should i reuse my block? Should i search for a teksid? Should i go with the 3v aluminum block? Screw it and start from scratch and build a boss big bore block?

Now i know some of you will ask what purpose the car serve... Well we all have different purposes for our cars... so lets say what the purpose will be for our build engine.

I'm looking for a engine for my street car that is not daily driven but is driven hard, taken to track events and put up against competition. You might ask what kid of fuel? Well all the gas stations around here stock 91 except for the 1 gas station by my house which stocks E85. So i will most likely have a pulley/tune for 91 and a pulley/tune for E85. I don't mind doing a pulley swap to achieve this.

I was considering the 2.3 TVS but since i have a E85 station 5 miles from my home i feel i should pull the plug on a larger blower like a 2.9 and spin the hell out of it and take advantage of the corn. What would you do if you had a E85 station down the street? 3.85 a gallon ...

I hope this thread will be useful for future members and maybe can be a little interesting, i am also hoping it will help me decide how to rebuild my cobra... Like i said before...if this dosent hit it will get washed way to the back of the threads... thanks :beer:
 
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gabe1530

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I was kind of in the same situation as yourself. When I started my build I did not have a budget and went all out with the boss big bore stroker, stage 3 ported 9 thread heads, etc... everything you could think of.

truthfully if I could do it all over again I would go with a reman and put some stage 2 or custom cams in. get the 2.9 Whipple since you'll have e85.
 
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D-MANN

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Livernois stroker,TSS oil pump,stock heads,custom cams and throw my TVS back on. Loads of torque and still street and pump gas friendly. Call it a day and enjoy the car.
Reman is another good option but no ARP hardware or ARP rod bolts turns me off from that option.
 

Nolimit

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Thanks guys, yea the ARP hardware is a eztra piece of insurance.

Something i forgot to mention was C/R. What would u go with? I read lower the better for boost but i also read we can get away with 9 to 1 C/R.
 

FiveOhJoe

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You could pretty easily swap a lot of the critical hardware on the reman engine for ARP stuff. That's my plan if I ever need a new motor.

Remove the oil pan and you have access to the rod bolts
Remove the heads and install ARP studs.
Throwing on a TSS oil pump is easy with a brand new clean motor on a stand.
Then maybe some side bolts?
So with the new oil pan and head gaskets your at maybe $500 or so plus the oil pump
 

Nolimit

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You could pretty easily swap a lot of the critical hardware on the reman engine for ARP stuff. That's my plan if I ever need a new motor.

Remove the oil pan and you have access to the rod bolts
Remove the heads and install ARP studs.
Throwing on a TSS oil pump is easy with a brand new clean motor on a stand.
Then maybe some side bolts?
So with the new oil pan and head gaskets your at maybe $500 or so plus the oil pump

This is true and didnt even cross my mind.
 

spray'n mach 1

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I would build my current motor. .20/.30 over 9.5 cr p&p heads with cams ARP 2000 rod bolts. Stock rods. Whipple 2.9/3.4 spin it to 25lbs and enjoy. Billet oil pump gears too.
 

01Jes

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I would call L&M cuz they make some serious sick engines. There's plenty of info out there to avoid strokers. There's a good article on modularfords. Has something to do with piston scarring/slapping.
 

R.D.P.

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You haven't said what\how bad your motor is hurt. If possible, just go .20 over with some cp or diamond pistons \ ARP hardware and go 2.9 and full return fuel system setup for e85. You would be in the 700's at least. If you want more, maybe consider TT. Don't forget your going to at least want\need a 26 spine dual disk setup, assuming you don't have it already. I would leave the heads\cams as is - lots of people running big power on stock heads.
 

Tractionless1

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OP,

From what I've read in the 3rd to the last paragraph in post #1 a reman will serve your needs in the 700hp range, according to what I've noticed posted in forums.
 

itSSlow98

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Here is what I just did......

Teksid block
New manley hbeams with ARP2000 upgrade
Wiseco boost pistons -6cc (10:1 compression)
Stock Crank
ARP main studs
ARP Side bolts
ARP Head studs
Stock heads
98 Cobra Intake cams


My builder says its good for 1,000hp. I went with 10:1 because i run meth and a turbo but for a twin screw id stay 9:1.
 

sabotage

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My little 4.6 makes nore than most 5.3 strokers with similar setups........the day i dynoed another car with my same setup other than him having a mmr 5.3 stroker and I still made 40 ft lbs of torque and 30 more hp same boost same blower same injectors same e85 etc...that kind of pumped me up...
 

Nolimit

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Livernois stroker,TSS oil pump,stock heads,custom cams and throw my TVS back on. Loads of torque and still street and pump gas friendly. Call it a day and enjoy the car.
Reman is another good option but no ARP hardware or ARP rod bolts turns me off from that option.

You trust in the stroked modular?
 

Nolimit

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You haven't said what\how bad your motor is hurt. If possible, just go .20 over with some cp or diamond pistons \ ARP hardware and go 2.9 and full return fuel system setup for e85. You would be in the 700's at least. If you want more, maybe consider TT. Don't forget your going to at least want\need a 26 spine dual disk setup, assuming you don't have it already. I would leave the heads\cams as is - lots of people running big power on stock heads.


Well I have yet to yank the engine and open it up. I didnt want to yank the engine out till i got the money and i just saved up all the money. The 26 spline along with a rxt will be installed once everything comes out long tubes included. I was considering TT also but thats another 10 i would have to save up...and i just want to get the engine build and the car back on the road.

Im not sure what exactly is damaged but i was considering purchasing a teksid block boring it .020 over and going billet everything inside. Then i heard about the big bore block and then i heard about bored and stroked 5.3l and then and then and then hahaha :bash:

But i would like the engine to be TT friendly if i go that route in the future.
 

Nolimit

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My little 4.6 makes nore than most 5.3 strokers with similar setups........the day i dynoed another car with my same setup other than him having a mmr 5.3 stroker and I still made 40 ft lbs of torque and 30 more hp same boost same blower same injectors same e85 etc...that kind of pumped me up...

whats your set up? I just noticed your in CA also. Who built your engine?
 

Nolimit

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Here is what I just did......

Teksid block
New manley hbeams with ARP2000 upgrade
Wiseco boost pistons -6cc (10:1 compression)
Stock Crank
ARP main studs
ARP Side bolts
ARP Head studs
Stock heads
98 Cobra Intake cams


My builder says its good for 1,000hp. I went with 10:1 because i run meth and a turbo but for a twin screw id stay 9:1.


How did that meth set up go? I heard meth was more beneficial on EVOs and STIs then our SVTs something to due with the lower intake manifold? I guess thats why you went turbo...
 

itSSlow98

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How did that meth set up go? I heard meth was more beneficial on EVOs and STIs then our SVTs something to due with the lower intake manifold? I guess thats why you went turbo...

Definetly more beneficial on turbo or centri blown cars. I'd rather just run E85 and get rid of the meth but there are 3 stations in the entire state of Maryland and the closest is an hour from me.

Tuner said i can pretty much run whatever boost i want on meth but its another failure point. Gotta pay to play though.
 

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