Gen2R install - started up - hearing whistle and clunck

[XP900]

I installed the Gen2R Budget kit on my 2010...everything went pretty smooth but the EGR was a PITA. Checked all connections and everything looked good. Kit was new SC, CAI (already had it installed), 90mm idler (already had it), new 67 TB to replace the 65 Ford Cobra, 2.5 pulley and installed new 95lb DeutchWerks injectors (came with the VMP it).
Updated SCT, reloaded stock file and then loaded new VMP tune they sent. No issues with any of that either. Checked belt and all connections once last time before starting.

It started up once the fuel rails filled with gas but I heard like a clunk noise - not normal but it only did it on the startup. No leaks, idled down to 700-750 but I hear a continuous whistle noise and I never heard that on my old stock SC. It was loud enough that it bothered me and did not appear to be getting any quieter.

I shut it down and checked SC oil. Seemed okay but I added a little but until it flowed out on its own. I do not think they send these out without oil in them!

Started it up again and i hear the whistle still. Seems to be towards the front of the SC. It idles okay so I give it a little gas and ease it up to 2000-2500 max. I hear that loud clunk noise twice and immediately turn it off. Double check everything and all looks okay and belt still on and didn't break.

I think that clunk is the SC binding and releasing...only thing I can think of cause it never made any noise like that since I have had it (4 years).

It is like an AC unit on a car when it is binding.

When I looked at the SC and compared it to me old stock one...not a lot of differences, I noticed that the new one was at least twice as hard to turn as my old one which seemed odd. Old one seemed to spin better than the new one.

VMP closed until Monday...need to talk to them I guess. Anyone ever had a bad SC from them yet?

 

[SCALILOU]

Obviously the best thing you can do is talk to VMP, they'll help you make it right. Until then, I would remove the supercharger, and make sure you didn't flip, tear, damage, move out of place, the manifold seal, that could cause a whistle sound and loss of performance. Also, while supercharger is off again, look inside, make sure a rag, wrapper, screw, washer, or other small object didn't get left behind and sucked into the supercharger. You'll know right away because the rotors might be scraped up. Also, make sure the egr bolts are torqued to proper specs and that metal gasket is in place, if it's not, that can cause strange noises and poor performance as well. And check the dirty air hose to the rear of the supercharger, make sure it's on securely and not torn.

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[XP900]

Thanks,

I thought about it and since I did the work last night at midnight with hanging lights I starting thinking maybe I a paper towel in the intake = did it before on a lawn mower.

Pulled the SC off....I'm getting faster at it.....found the clunk I heard...had part of a paper towel sheet left in the intake and part of it went through the rotors....had to vaccuum the shredded paper all out...rotors look okay and it doesn't look like it banged them up. Rotates freely. I vaccumed and cleaned everything an remounted it.

Still heard the whistle but I thought maybe it is normal bearings breaking in.....drove for an hour and it seems have quieted down now - normal engine noise...no whistle. Rough idle seems to be gone with the VMP tune but stalls on the first key start still....and now my USB music with Sync no longer works..WTF...one thing breaks after another. I'm hoping the USB issue is a fuse that popped when I removed and restored battery power multiple times.

 

[SHIFTYBUSINESS]

My VMP gen2 whistles a little, I noticed it more in the beginning. It does it a little when cold. I’ve put 20k miles on it and have a VMP and Palm Beach Dyno remote tune. Nobody ever said the log looks funny or asked to check for a vacuum leak. Mine is on a coyote.


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[Nutty 5.0]

Glad you found your clunk! My 2R whistles at idle some too so I think that may be normal.

 

[HKusp]

It whistles more in the beginning. The coating on the rotors makes the clearances pretty tight. It'll quiet down after a while.

 

[Ryan Viator]

Same here, slight whistle at idle. Installed my Gen2R budget kit (07 GT500) this weekend as well.

 

[SCALILOU]

Make sure you reprogram the correct tune back into the car after disconnecting the battery. With some cars, idle can be a little wonky until the idle reset is complete. Usually corrects itself after 20-50 miles of normal street driving. You can speed this process up by a special sequence of turning car on, letting it come up to normal operating temp, turn AC on for 2 minutes, turn AC off and let idles 2 minutes, turn car off. Take key out, open door. Close door and wait for interior light to go out. Turn car back on and repeat previous steps. Then go drive car.

Or stalling issue may be a vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses, and especially that dirty air hose to the rear of supercharger, I had a tear in one once and caused my car to sound like it was cammed and wanted to stall.

But try that idle reset and see if that fixes your idle issue

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[Catmonkey]

I can't see ingesting paper towels in the rotors as a good thing. Rotor clearances are awful tight. Are you sure you didn't do any damage?

 

[XP900]

I can't see ingesting paper towels in the rotors as a good thing. Rotor clearances are awful tight. Are you sure you didn't do any damage?

I checked each rotor when I had it pulled and see some color differences in the black but everything appeared smooth and no gouges. Edges of the blades appeared sharp and smooth. I'm sure I took a few years off the bearings life and hopefully I didn't lose boost. Stock boost showed needle pegged out when floored for a few seconds but that doesn't really show true boost I was told. Not much I can do at this point unless I want to swap the rotors and that would probably be a thousand or two.

 

[XP900]

Make sure you reprogram the correct tune back into the car after disconnecting the battery. With some cars, idle can be a little wonky until the idle reset is complete. Usually corrects itself after 20-50 miles of normal street driving. You can speed this process up by a special sequence of turning car on, letting it come up to normal operating temp, turn AC on for 2 minutes, turn AC off and let idles 2 minutes, turn car off. Take key out, open door. Close door and wait for interior light to go out. Turn car back on and repeat previous steps. Then go drive car.

Or stalling issue may be a vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses, and especially that dirty air hose to the rear of supercharger, I had a tear in one once and caused my car to sound like it was cammed and wanted to stall.

But try that idle reset and see if that fixes your idle issue

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I think I do have an air leak but I haven't found it. Car ran nicely until after 50 or so miles .... ..then back to stalling sometimes at stoplights. Trying purge/vent valves now.

 

[XP900]

Or stalling issue may be a vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses, and especially that dirty air hose to the rear of supercharger, I had a tear in one once and caused my car to sound like it was cammed and wanted to stall.

Where does that air hose go to???? I am referring to that one behind the SC and to the left of center when viewing it from the front of the car - with the PITA clip it uses. I can't trace it out and haven't found any reference to it yet. I know where all the other lines go but NOT that one. It is okay at the engine end but what is it sucking air from??


Found a diagram and now I see where it goes. Top part is fine but I will try to check the lower connection somehow.

Thanks.