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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Fuel system woes... Still dropping rail pressure w/new pumps
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<blockquote data-quote="04GTMustang" data-source="post: 16496475" data-attributes="member: 91468"><p>Thanks for the reply. I think that's a reasonable assumption, I'm leaning towards electrical as well, due to the other components not being near limitations. I was thinking the fuel filter being a culprit, but it's only been like 6000 miles since I installed that beefy 88mm fore unit. I can't imagine that's a cause. I also thought maybe the metal line at the stock fuel rail could be kinked or bent, but then again, it made 730 before and nothing under the hood has changed. And the line looks normal...</p><p></p><p></p><p>I measured 13.9v at the FC3 controller in the trunk while idling. I was 14.1v at the battery during this. So a 0.2v loss at the controller. My power comes from a 4ga wire connected to the dist box.</p><p></p><p><strong>Another thing worth noting: my inertia switch is backwards. Has been ever since this return fuel system. Only runs when the button is "popped". When I reset it and push it in, it disconnects power to the FC3 and the car immediately stalls (with fuel still in the line). Why the f*** is this? Bad inertia switch or did I fook the wiring on this (to my defense, a friend was helping me with this part and he did this section). I can't imagine this as a cause, but I'm confused.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p>Edit: This is a newb electrical question, but how would I measure the resistance of the fuel controller power wire if the ends of the wire are on opposite ends of the car? Could I just measure the pos and neg wire together to see resistance through the entire circuit?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="04GTMustang, post: 16496475, member: 91468"] Thanks for the reply. I think that's a reasonable assumption, I'm leaning towards electrical as well, due to the other components not being near limitations. I was thinking the fuel filter being a culprit, but it's only been like 6000 miles since I installed that beefy 88mm fore unit. I can't imagine that's a cause. I also thought maybe the metal line at the stock fuel rail could be kinked or bent, but then again, it made 730 before and nothing under the hood has changed. And the line looks normal... I measured 13.9v at the FC3 controller in the trunk while idling. I was 14.1v at the battery during this. So a 0.2v loss at the controller. My power comes from a 4ga wire connected to the dist box. [b]Another thing worth noting: my inertia switch is backwards. Has been ever since this return fuel system. Only runs when the button is "popped". When I reset it and push it in, it disconnects power to the FC3 and the car immediately stalls (with fuel still in the line). Why the f*** is this? Bad inertia switch or did I fook the wiring on this (to my defense, a friend was helping me with this part and he did this section). I can't imagine this as a cause, but I'm confused. [/b] Edit: This is a newb electrical question, but how would I measure the resistance of the fuel controller power wire if the ends of the wire are on opposite ends of the car? Could I just measure the pos and neg wire together to see resistance through the entire circuit? [/QUOTE]
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Fuel system woes... Still dropping rail pressure w/new pumps
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