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Fuel pressure cuts out, able to restart with full pressure, but cuts out again.
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<blockquote data-quote="IUP99snake" data-source="post: 11900224" data-attributes="member: 7060"><p>Good idea to check for battery drain. I found a few instructions and diagrams for testing the FPDM and the fuel pump, and I'm going to give that a shot. None of them mention parasitic drain, but that's an easy enough test. </p><p></p><p>I'm also worried a little bit that it might be the fuel pump, or maybe something's clogging the fuel pump sock. </p><p></p><p>Funny story, when I first installed my Procharger back in 2003, we started it up for the first time and let it idle to make sure there were no leaks or check engine lights, etc. Within 5 minutes of idling, the new Walbro 255 pump we had just installed seized up and the car stalled out. If it had happened 10 minutes later, the car would have been on the dyno and I would have destroyed my motor. Whew. Anyway, we swapped out the Walbro for the stock pump and ran it on the dyno. It made 462 whp and the stock pump made plenty of fuel pressure. Nevertheless, I returned the Walbro and got a replacement. </p><p></p><p>Update: I was able to get the car running properly after a few more tries. But before that happened, I did a simple check of the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) by unplugging the electrical connector when it was idling. Immediately, the fuel pressure shot up from 30 psi to 60 psi. This happened both when the problem was occurring and after the problem went away. That eliminates the FRPS as being the problem. Usually, when the FRPS goes, it'll throw a code anyway. </p><p></p><p>This is what I'm gonna do. </p><p>1: Disconnect the FPDM and let the car sit to check for parasitic drain</p><p></p><p>2: Do some voltage tests on the FPDM. I'm also going to do some vacuum tests on the FRPS with a hand vacuum pump. I'll probably go to the pick-n-pull and get an FPDM from a wrecked car and swap it out to see what happens. Just for good measure, I'll pull off the FRPS and replace that too. </p><p></p><p>3: I'm going to let the car idle and and cut power to the pump. I want to see if there is an immediate or gradual drop in fuel pressure and see if the car immediately quits, or takes a couple seconds. </p><p></p><p>4: I'm going to make a jumper to supply full power to the fuel pump and keep it in my car in case this happens again. If the pump has full power but it's still happening, I know it's something with the pump, sock, or fuel pump hat. </p><p></p><p>5: Lastly, I'm going to drop the tank, change the fuel filler neck grommet (which needs changing anyway), pull the fuel pump hat and inspect the pump and sock for any debris or other problems. </p><p></p><p>Anyway, it's fixed for now. But it's been happening at an increasing rate. It's happened 4 times in the last 3 months and every time, I have been able to get the car running fine after a few tries and get home. But I'm worried I won't be so lucky in the future. </p><p></p><p>Homer</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="IUP99snake, post: 11900224, member: 7060"] Good idea to check for battery drain. I found a few instructions and diagrams for testing the FPDM and the fuel pump, and I'm going to give that a shot. None of them mention parasitic drain, but that's an easy enough test. I'm also worried a little bit that it might be the fuel pump, or maybe something's clogging the fuel pump sock. Funny story, when I first installed my Procharger back in 2003, we started it up for the first time and let it idle to make sure there were no leaks or check engine lights, etc. Within 5 minutes of idling, the new Walbro 255 pump we had just installed seized up and the car stalled out. If it had happened 10 minutes later, the car would have been on the dyno and I would have destroyed my motor. Whew. Anyway, we swapped out the Walbro for the stock pump and ran it on the dyno. It made 462 whp and the stock pump made plenty of fuel pressure. Nevertheless, I returned the Walbro and got a replacement. Update: I was able to get the car running properly after a few more tries. But before that happened, I did a simple check of the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) by unplugging the electrical connector when it was idling. Immediately, the fuel pressure shot up from 30 psi to 60 psi. This happened both when the problem was occurring and after the problem went away. That eliminates the FRPS as being the problem. Usually, when the FRPS goes, it'll throw a code anyway. This is what I'm gonna do. 1: Disconnect the FPDM and let the car sit to check for parasitic drain 2: Do some voltage tests on the FPDM. I'm also going to do some vacuum tests on the FRPS with a hand vacuum pump. I'll probably go to the pick-n-pull and get an FPDM from a wrecked car and swap it out to see what happens. Just for good measure, I'll pull off the FRPS and replace that too. 3: I'm going to let the car idle and and cut power to the pump. I want to see if there is an immediate or gradual drop in fuel pressure and see if the car immediately quits, or takes a couple seconds. 4: I'm going to make a jumper to supply full power to the fuel pump and keep it in my car in case this happens again. If the pump has full power but it's still happening, I know it's something with the pump, sock, or fuel pump hat. 5: Lastly, I'm going to drop the tank, change the fuel filler neck grommet (which needs changing anyway), pull the fuel pump hat and inspect the pump and sock for any debris or other problems. Anyway, it's fixed for now. But it's been happening at an increasing rate. It's happened 4 times in the last 3 months and every time, I have been able to get the car running fine after a few tries and get home. But I'm worried I won't be so lucky in the future. Homer [/QUOTE]
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Fuel pressure cuts out, able to restart with full pressure, but cuts out again.
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