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Front Brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="006" data-source="post: 5773355" data-attributes="member: 5015"><p><span style="font-size: 12px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><strong>Front COBRA, BULLITT, MACH1 brakes</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">BTW, the rears "how to" can be found here:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><a href="http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/420425-rear-brakes-how-write-up.html" target="_blank">http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/420425-rear-brakes-how-write-up.html</a></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">Onto this job:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">This is a very simple less than one hour job for everything.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">Pads:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">For regular street driving, I recommend the motorcraft pads. They are anywhere from $55-$75 at most Auto supply stores or performance shops. Motorcraft Part # is <strong>BR12B or Ford's part # is 2U2Z-2V001-PA</strong>. For aggressive street driving with absolutely ZERO brake fade after 90+ speeds, I recommend <strong>Hawk pads. Part # HB111F.610 for the fronts, and HB183F.585 for the rears </strong>and are higher priced than the Motorcraft pads, but worth it.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><img src="http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2545/img2260l.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5629/img2267j.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">Jack the car up. Place a Jack stand at an appropriate place just incase the jack decides to go on vacation while you’re underneath the car at some point.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">These are self explanatory:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><img src="http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/559/img2262.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><img src="http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/7854/img2264x.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px">Some of the tools needed to do the job...specially if you'll be replacing the rotors. The two 15mm bolts will require a breaker bar, a regular socket wrench and some lock-tite (thread locker) for when you're bolting things up.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5629/img2267j.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>1. Take the wheel off…and turn the wheels so that the rear part of the rotor is exposed.</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7046/img2265.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>2. Take the C clip (some people call it an E clip) and washer off as shown:</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1088/img2338o.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>3. Slide the retainer pin off as shown:</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4929/img2339o.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>4. Slides right off:</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3675/img2340.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>5: Raise the caliper from the bracket as shown from the rear:</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4561/img2342g.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>6: Slides right off:</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/2748/img2343y.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>7: The bracket is exposed. If you’re going to be replacing the rotors, all you have to do is take the two 15mm bolts out. (In this pic, I am using a cheapo old bent torque wrench that I now use as a breaker-bar/leverage wrench because of how long and strong it is.). When the 2 bolts are out. The bracket slides off and you can remove the rotor and replace it with a new one, OR you can have the old one resurfaced with a lathe. Also known as "turning" the rotors. Most auto parts stores charge a simple $6-10 bucks to resurface each rotor. There is a minimum thickness required for each rotor, thus if your rotor is too thin to remove the thin layer, they will not do it. Most rotors can only be resurfaced with a lathe just once in the life of the rotor. </strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8057/img2345c.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>8: When you have the rotors out and replaced, you need to use some thread locker on those two 15mm bolts. Apply as shown:</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/105/img2346p.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>9: Back to the pads job…Slide the old brake pads off</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1742/img2354.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong>10: Rotate the old pads, and Flip them upside down so that the flat surface rests against the pistons and the "raised" part of the pad is on the bottom as shown. Helps the tool catch on it to help push the pistons back..</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong><img src="http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6725/img2357m.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 9px"><strong></strong></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="006, post: 5773355, member: 5015"] [size=3] [b]Front COBRA, BULLITT, MACH1 brakes[/b][/size] [size=1] BTW, the rears "how to" can be found here: [url]http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/420425-rear-brakes-how-write-up.html[/url] Onto this job: This is a very simple less than one hour job for everything. Pads: For regular street driving, I recommend the motorcraft pads. They are anywhere from $55-$75 at most Auto supply stores or performance shops. Motorcraft Part # is [B]BR12B or Ford's part # is 2U2Z-2V001-PA[/B]. For aggressive street driving with absolutely ZERO brake fade after 90+ speeds, I recommend [B]Hawk pads. Part # HB111F.610 for the fronts, and HB183F.585 for the rears [/B]and are higher priced than the Motorcraft pads, but worth it. [IMG]http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2545/img2260l.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5629/img2267j.jpg[/IMG] Jack the car up. Place a Jack stand at an appropriate place just incase the jack decides to go on vacation while you’re underneath the car at some point. These are self explanatory: [IMG]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/559/img2262.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/7854/img2264x.jpg[/IMG] Some of the tools needed to do the job...specially if you'll be replacing the rotors. The two 15mm bolts will require a breaker bar, a regular socket wrench and some lock-tite (thread locker) for when you're bolting things up. [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5629/img2267j.jpg[/IMG] [b] 1. Take the wheel off…and turn the wheels so that the rear part of the rotor is exposed. [IMG]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7046/img2265.jpg[/IMG] 2. Take the C clip (some people call it an E clip) and washer off as shown: [IMG]http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1088/img2338o.jpg[/IMG] 3. Slide the retainer pin off as shown: [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4929/img2339o.jpg[/IMG] 4. Slides right off: [IMG]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3675/img2340.jpg[/IMG] 5: Raise the caliper from the bracket as shown from the rear: [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4561/img2342g.jpg[/IMG] 6: Slides right off: [IMG]http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/2748/img2343y.jpg[/IMG] 7: The bracket is exposed. If you’re going to be replacing the rotors, all you have to do is take the two 15mm bolts out. (In this pic, I am using a cheapo old bent torque wrench that I now use as a breaker-bar/leverage wrench because of how long and strong it is.). When the 2 bolts are out. The bracket slides off and you can remove the rotor and replace it with a new one, OR you can have the old one resurfaced with a lathe. Also known as "turning" the rotors. Most auto parts stores charge a simple $6-10 bucks to resurface each rotor. There is a minimum thickness required for each rotor, thus if your rotor is too thin to remove the thin layer, they will not do it. Most rotors can only be resurfaced with a lathe just once in the life of the rotor. [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8057/img2345c.jpg[/IMG] 8: When you have the rotors out and replaced, you need to use some thread locker on those two 15mm bolts. Apply as shown: [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/105/img2346p.jpg[/IMG] 9: Back to the pads job…Slide the old brake pads off [IMG]http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1742/img2354.jpg[/IMG] 10: Rotate the old pads, and Flip them upside down so that the flat surface rests against the pistons and the "raised" part of the pad is on the bottom as shown. Helps the tool catch on it to help push the pistons back.. [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6725/img2357m.jpg[/IMG] [/b][/size] [/QUOTE]
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