Forged internals.

Badaz01

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Just wondering what the cost of forged rods and pistons would be on my 01 cobra. This is assuming shop cost at about 100 dollars per hour. Pretty sure the crank on these motors are already forged. Trying to go 425 to 450 reliably on a ProCharger.
 

01vert

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If you are looking at only 450 and having to forge the internals then you are spending a ton fior that last 30hp. The stock internals seem ok at 420 on a Procharger as long as you are not spending a ton of time at the drags or doing extended high boost / speed runs.

Procharger on stock internals is an easy boost and unless you are looking at much higher numbers the hp to cost ratio gets ugly quick for the mid 400s

The engine you have is running without issue?
 
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Dirks9901

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There is a lot more to it then just putting in forged rods and pistons. Unless you are doing the work yourself, its going to cost some $$$. Like 8-10k.

I had a Vortech Si making 445/407 on 9psi for 5 years and just short of 20k miles. All stock 01 motor.

My mods:

Vortech V2 Si w/3.60 pulley
Anderson Ford Motorsport Power Pipe
Focus SVT Pump
KB Boost a Pump
60lbs Injectors
SCT 2400 MAF
Bassani X-pipe/High Flow Cats
SpinTech/Roush Side Exhaust
BilletFlow IRS Brace
Steeda “Stop the Hop” kit
4:10 gears
McLeod "RXT" Twin Disc
Steeda Tri Ax Shifter
Willwood 14' Brake System
Nitto 555 Drag Radials
SCT tune by Liddio at Alternative Auto Performance

Its all in the tune imo. And also not completely beating the dog piss out of your car. I still had a ton of fun with it, but within reason.

I also was anal about the maintenance.

Oil change every 3k
Plug change every other year.

My suggestion would to get a compression test done pre FI as well.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

robvas

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I wouldn’t mind seeing a dummies guide to building a budget forged shortblock either. How much can be done at home, how much at a shop?

which rods, pistons, rings, etc to put back with the factory crank. New bearings, oil pump? Anything to do to the block, cylinder hone and that’s it?

then there’s re-assembly, gaskets, bolts, timing set....2V might as well do a valve job and light port job, and cams right?
 

Badaz01

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What happened after 20000 miles
There is a lot more to it then just putting in forged rods and pistons. Unless you are doing the work yourself, its going to cost some $$$. Like 8-10k.

I had a Vortech Si making 445/407 on 9psi for 5 years and just short of 20k miles. All stock 01 motor.

My mods:

Vortech V2 Si w/3.60 pulley
Anderson Ford Motorsport Power Pipe
Focus SVT Pump
KB Boost a Pump
60lbs Injectors
SCT 2400 MAF
Bassani X-pipe/High Flow Cats
SpinTech/Roush Side Exhaust
BilletFlow IRS Brace
Steeda “Stop the Hop” kit
4:10 gears
McLeod "RXT" Twin Disc
Steeda Tri Ax Shifter
Willwood 14' Brake System
Nitto 555 Drag Radials
SCT tune by Liddio at Alternative Auto Performance

Its all in the tune imo. And also not completely beating the dog piss out of your car. I still had a ton of fun with it, but within reason.

I also was anal about the maintenance.

Oil change every 3k
Plug change every other year.

My suggestion would to get a compression test done pre FI as well.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
20000 miles?
 

Badaz01

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If you are looking at only 450 and having to forge the internals then you are spending a ton fior that last 30hp. The stock internals seem ok at 420 on a Procharger as long as you are not spending a ton of time at the drags or doing extended high boost / speed runs.

Procharger on stock internals is an easy boost and unless you are looking at much higher numbers the hp to cost ratio gets ugly quick for the mid 400s

The engine you have is running without issue?
The engine runs great just don’t want to build a ticking time bomb.
 

baby_gonzo

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If you decide to have your motor build, just remember, you get what you pay for. I currently have an 01 cobra, bought it non running but had receipts for a built motor, and decided to pull it apart since I got it cheap enough and had budget to see what was inside. Glad I did because it wasn't built correctly and they didn't have enough piston/cylinder wall clearance and the cylinders ate up the piston skirts.

I would advise against these motors being a DIY first time build also. I've rebuilt a lot of old 5.0's, and have done machine work before, so knew how to check for clearances.

Best of luck, sounds like a fun combination!
 

Dirks9901

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What happened after 20000 miles

20000 miles?

Nothing, shoulda put that LOL.

I just sold the car in august of this year. Had it for 18 (almost 19) years total. Car ran amazing. Car was perfect actually.

One thing I forgot to put in my original post is also heat. You can have the best of the best in terms of a built shortblock and tune but heat is a killer.
 

Badaz01

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Nothing, shoulda put that LOL.

I just sold the car in august of this year. Had it for 18 (almost 19) years total. Car ran amazing. Car was perfect actually.

One thing I forgot to put in my original post is also heat. You can have the best of the best in terms of a built shortblock and tune but heat is a killer.
I did an egr delete and have installed ceramic coated longtubes along with intake spacer and cold air intake. Since then I’ve noticed it runs 6 to 8 degrees cooler.
 

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