Fore Level 2 Return Tips?

[31BCobra]

Getting ready to do a Fore Level 2 Return. Any tips you guys might have that people may have run into in the past? Issues to look out for?

Never done anything like this, I have 4 threads saved to use as reference, just looking to see if you guys have any advice.

Thanks.

 

[cj428mach]

My suggestion is to wire it up where the fpdm controls pump operation. The second suggestion is to plumb it dead head.

My final suggestion is don't fully drop the tank just lower the drivers side enough to get the hat in and then before the tank goes back up check that the pumps operate and that the fuel gauge is functioning.

 

[31BCobra]

My suggestion is to wire it up where the fpdm controls pump operation. The second suggestion is to plumb it dead head.

My final suggestion is don't fully drop the tank just lower the drivers side enough to get the hat in and then before the tank goes back up check that the pumps operate and that the fuel gauge is functioning.

Well, I opted to not stage the pumps. The car only get's driven 1 or 2 hours at a time, 2 or 3 times a month always on E85. Do I still need to use the FPDMs? I have an FC2 controller.

As for deadhead. I mentioned that, and Kurgan told me hell no, makes too much heat. He even used all caps in the email. :shrug:

 

[bigmoose]

Well, I opted to not stage the pumps. The car only get's driven 1 or 2 hours at a time, 2 or 3 times a month always on E85. Do I still need to use the FPDMs? I have an FC2 controller.

As for deadhead. I mentioned that, and Kurgan told me hell no, makes too much heat. He even used all caps in the email. :shrug:

Its a pretty simple concept. Dead head reduces heat. Whether or not its as effective as a non-deadhead setup I can't say. Either he made a typo or he has no clue what he is talking about. I have mine setup dead head. After a two hour drive the fuel filter was wasn't even warm.

 

[31BCobra]

Its a pretty simple concept. Dead head reduces heat. Whether or not its as effective as a non-deadhead setup I can't say. Either he made a typo or he has no clue what he is talking about. I have mine setup dead head. After a two hour drive the fuel filter was wasn't even warm.

Yea, I get the concept, was just wondering why he would knock it. He is a pretty reputable guy.

So basically in deadhead I will be running the lines Hat > filter (under passenger door) > regulator (in passenger fender well like MalcomV8 did) > One line goes off to the rails and one line goes back to return? Could I use a Y-block to feed each rail individually?

vs traditional return:
Hat > Filter > Rail 1 > Rail 2 > regulator > return feed?

 

[bigmoose]

Some people seem to be against a dead head setup. Not sure why, maybe just because its kinda a new thing. Recent mustangs essentially use a dead head setup with a mechanical regulator on the fuel hat and a single line to the front.

That's how I have mine run. You would be better off getting the fore 4 port regulator if you want to run to each rail. I run stock rails so I only run one line to them.

 

[Bdubbs]

I dropped the tank completely, and it sucked doing it alone. I broke the filler neck too. Honestly, it looked like more of a pain just lowering it a bit and trying to get the new hat and fuel level arm in. But I may try that when I swap pumps again.

 

[31BCobra]

Some people seem to be against a dead head setup. Not sure why, maybe just because its kinda a new thing. Recent mustangs essentially use a dead head setup with a mechanical regulator on the fuel hat and a single line to the front.

That's how I have mine run. You would be better off getting the fore 4 port regulator if you want to run to each rail. I run stock rails so I only run one line to them.

I am pretty much stuck with the F2i 2 port + return regulator. Would the Y-Block harm things or is just one of those not suggested things? I would rather not have to deal with a crossover between the 2 rails. Makes everything look funky.

I dropped the tank completely, and it sucked doing it alone. I broke the filler neck too. Honestly, it looked like more of a pain just lowering it a bit and trying to get the new hat and fuel level arm in. But I may try that when I swap pumps again.

Yea, that seems to be the feeling about it. I figure I will try to only drop it part way, then if I can't make it work, I will drop it all the way.

 

[cj428mach]

It probably depends upon your exhaust setup but you can lower one side of the tank down with out removing anything and it takes probably 10 mins to have the tank where you can work on it.

I just helped a guy install his Fore return setup and he dropped the tank to swap in the hat and it was a ton of work. During the install he knocked the wire off his primary pump so I dropped it the second time, took less than 30 mins to have the tank dow, hat out and reinstalled.

I agree with the others either Kurgan doesn't understand what you meant or he is lost. Going dead head reduces heats by a very large amount. Before deadhead my filter was scalding hot after a drive, after deadhead you can hold the filter for as long as you want.

 

[MBoyle1]

The 90 swivel need to be installed correct
http://youtu.be/rH137s8nrS0

 

[TRBO VNM]

Some people seem to be against a dead head setup. Not sure why, maybe just because its kinda a new thing. Recent mustangs essentially use a dead head setup with a mechanical regulator on the fuel hat and a single line to the front.

That's how I have mine run. You would be better off getting the fore 4 port regulator if you want to run to each rail. I run stock rails so I only run one line to them.

Personally, I would not run the F4i. I have on a couple of cars and ABSOLUTELY hate that regulator because of the size and it is very hard to get the lines configured to look clean. You pretty much need to have the battery relocated or have a driver side intake setup with the battery in trunk so you are either mounting it in the battery area or the stock filter area.

If someone wants to feed each rail I always recommend using a y block and then run it to each rail and then to the regulator.

 

[TRBO VNM]

Well, I opted to not stage the pumps. The car only get's driven 1 or 2 hours at a time, 2 or 3 times a month always on E85. Do I still need to use the FPDMs? I have an FC2 controller.

As for deadhead. I mentioned that, and Kurgan told me hell no, makes too much heat. He even used all caps in the email. :shrug:

Using the FPDM has nothing to do with staging the pumps. Obviously you aren't staging since you have the FC2. Utilizing the FPDM allows you to wire the FC2/3 so that the pumps prime like factory. If you delete the fpdm, then you will use the green/yellow wire from the fpdm harness to trigger the pumps and they will be on all the time when the key is turned on. I check with customers on how they want it before I wire it up.

 

[31BCobra]

Okay, so if I am understanding deadhead, this is what I am getting in my mind. Is this right, or am I about to make my car explode or something? I left the fuel filter off the artwork, but I know it goes in between the tank and regulator. I can see how this setup would tremendously reduce heat instead of having fuel cycle through the rails nonstop.

 

[TRBO VNM]

Yes that is one way of you are using a yblock.

The level 2 I have done a couple ways over the years. Level 2 doesn't come with a y block.

Feed to front passenger rail, crossover in back of rails, front driver rail to regulator. Cap other side of regulator.

Also plumbed with feeding regulator, other side of regulator goes to driver front rail, crossover in rear and plug front passenger rail.

Obviously these have regulator mounted on driver side. Adjust layout based on regulator placement.

 

[31BCobra]

Ok. I am going to go with the deadhead Y-Block route then. Makes the engine bay a lot cleaner, I may have goals of high horsepower for this car, but it is still a show car mostly.

Thanks for the help guys. I will re-post here if I have any more questions during the build that I can't solve with the search function. :beer: