Yea, In the past I've always attached the gauge to the regulator itself. So I get what you're saying.
I actually mounted mine to the EGR block off plate with my 3.4 car.
Fore L1E Return System Write-up?
- Thread starter slow98cobra
- Start date
I actually mounted mine to the EGR block off plate with my 3.4 car.
I'm going to be revamping my fuel system at some point and thought about doing something similar. But as I was looking at it I realized I didn't want the regulator in the engine bay. So it'll be staying in the fenderwell.
This is how I did it back in 2011. Now I probably would change it up some but just would have to play around with it a little more.
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My regulator is in the passenger side front bumper, the gauge is viewable through the hole right next to the fog light. As others have said install it how you want to, the only problem is doing it this way you more than likely will find out you need more hose or more/different fittings.
I went to quote CJ and I saw the weirdest thing; but it is great to hear!
Interested on hearing where you at on your project slow98. The hardest part is starting it, once you begin it is over in no time.
I need a caged 4 or 2 lb let us know
I don't know how he got that on his quote but no I won't be doing anymore 4lb caged lowers. Lethal offers their setup if you need something.
IF I could find a way to get a driveshaft made thats better than stock for a reasonable price I'd consider it but big power cars are at the limit of the stock driveshaft even with the lockout plate. I also know how cheap people are and people aren't going to want to pay what it would cost.
I hope that someday someone makes a replacement stock drive mechanism for the stock lowers thats reasonable and could be adapted to a 4lb lower. I'm not excited about the price tag the Lethal setup costs once you put in the price of the balancer. They/J2Fab really should have added an offering that bolted up to the stock balancer.
I’m sick lol
Lethal kit looks like a mess
There was a guy that messaged me about producing his own 4lb lowers and wanted my advice, in the end he didn't really want any of my advice and was going to have to learn the hard way. This was a couple of years ago and it doesn't look like he ever made anything.
Maybe you'll get lucky and I'll destroy my stock driveshaft on my 4lb lower. If that happens I may look at having something beefier built, if I do that then who knows I might take another stab at it.
I just quoted you and changed the text in it, my apologies. I saw the name and immediately recognized you as the hero who originally made the lowers; I was hoping my fever dream of a #2 or #4 caged lower would be real again.
I knew they had issues with the driveshaft and overtightening, even with the lockout plate. But in my eyes, that was a much better solution than the Metco kit.
Trust me, I feel the pain on the pay to play. My other car the community is a bunch of penny pinchers who want the world and want it for free. I would gladly pay if I could find a nice condition 2/4 lower from you, but that is a needle in a haystack; 44 total made IIRC. The only one I have found the driveshaft was stripped and the pulley was in overall horrible condition.
Someone else was selling a follow-up design to yours, but it was in the same general disarray and bad shape.
I dont think I have enough selfishness in me to wish evil on your stock driveshaft, but, I am always lurking waiting to seize an opportunity.
So far regulator is mounted in passenger fender, lines are ran, pumps are in the tank, FC3 is wired with a Hobbs switch by the master cylinder, now I just need to install the tank and check for leaks when pressurized. Would never know it had the return kit unless you spotted the Fore fitting on the rail feed or looked under the car. Here are a few pics. Probably should have deleted all the EGR stuff when I installed the Whipple but meh, another project for a different day. Don’t roast me too bad on my install. I’ll wire loom and hide everything once I confirm it works!
Sleeper has my startup tune to me so I just need to start the revisions with him.
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You saved yourself some headache maintaining the factory rail. I guess for my little 2.2 I could have used the factory rail and saved myself some clutter, stress, and had it look as clean as yours.
Looks great so far! Did you wire the FC3 to maintain the factory FPDM or key on?
Thank you. Right now it is just set to key on. I may need to look at changing that. How are you setting yours?
I have a MS3pro so I had to do something different to get key-on prime and do not use the factory FPDM.
If you can, I would try and maintain it. Some will argue it adds a failure point, but it also maintains the inertia switch using it which I think is better.
Malcom posted a lot of helpful info here on using pins 3/10 from the FPDM to retain factory operation. Return style wiring HOW TO allowing OE type fuel pump actuation
I have all that hanging around! I should have just left my black306 wire upgrade kit in there and just adjusted the config!
I have a little issue and trying to trouble shoot. Hooked everything up to check for leaks, no leaks. Good there. When I key on, fuel pump comes on but my Emergency brake and seat belt light flicker and make the audible tone. My dome light is also flickering(door is open). If I turn on the headlights(not started) my fuel pump automatically shuts off. I put my battery on the tender but when I started the car with the headlights on, fuel pump never kicked on so I watched pressure drop. Car started easily and battery sounded strong. Thoughts?
How did you wire it up?
I wired the FC3 with the green and yellow as the trigger for pump. I’m wondering if I have to have the ground circled in blue hooked back up for some reasons or if my grounds are bad. Car is still on jack stands. It just seems like to car is fighting each other on the ground circuit. It is acting really really weird.
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