Ford Racing L springs... Dead Hooker's and weight Transfer

[devilish64]

I have slowly been modifying the rear suspension and driveline of my car so I can go drag racing(and also have a somewhat comfortable street car). I have done a fays 2 watts, bobs lowers, steeda upper, sub frame connectors, BMR relocation brackets, Viking double adjustable rears, FORD RACING L SPRINGS, 3.73 gears moser axles and tru trac. Long story short.... my car doesn't seem to like to transfer weight like I think it should. I removed the front sway bar.... but otherwise stock front suspension except for the Lowering springs. With my 20" drag radials(this may be my problem, not sure) my car leaves slowly.... suspension just doesn't seem to do it's job right. There is just not much distance between the bump stop and frame for the car to be able to squat like I think it should. This combined with the progressive nature of the springs is not helping me. You think Your dead hooker spring kit would be more well suited for me and my goals?.... best 60ft from my last test and tune was 1.89. I need to improve these times ASAP and the more I watch the video of my launches, the more I think I need your springs. Thanks allot Van.... Any help is greatly appreciated....:rockon: Chad

 

[devilish64]

Shelby GT500 13' TVS 11.66 - YouTube
1.9 60ft on this run... this is how the car reacted all day.... sometimes more spin : ]


Would you recommend Changing the fronts??

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Chad

I believe in taking a step by step approach versus throwing the kitchen sink at something to "try" and fix it.

With that said I would recommend the dead hooker spring kit. It's worked wonders for many people. Additionally, you need to monitor your compression and rebound settings after you've installed the springs. All of the video in the past will show how different the car is leaving on the hooker springs. A smaller rim and taller sidewall tire will definitely help improve your 60' and 330' time. Many of my customers have reported modest improvements on the 60' but HUGE improvements on the 330' because the car is planting power and it leaves more linear.

I might even recommend removing the Fays 2 Watts link. That's not the best drag racing piece and if you get your pinion angle to -2 to -3 degrees along with the hooker springs you should be able to cut a good 60' even on the 20's.

Dead Hooker Spring kits are in stock.

Thanks

Van

 

[devilish64]

I hear ya on the throwing the kitchen sink at it.... in the past that's the way I would go about trying to make the car faster because although I love to tinker and install new parts... my knowledge of tuning these parts is a slow learning process. I'm going to get this thing dialed in better for what I want to do with it.... That said I have a feeling the car would be easier to dial in for what I want with these springs. I will give you a call on Monday/Tuesday as I have a few questions on front springs and boost a pump stuff. Thanks Van!!!

 

[Reis racing]

Sorry to high jack, Van can the springs be used without the adjuster peace or would the car sit way to low?

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Depends on the size of your tire. That's the nice thing about adjustability.

Thanks for the order. In stock and shipped out today.

 

[Reis racing]

I just installed the springs and adjuster, I wasn't sure if it was going to be to low. Should I have cut the bump stops shorter? They are not touching but not sure if they will hit on launch? And should I put the lower control arms on lower holes on the relocation brackets?

 

[ericmuscle]

Sorry to high jack, Van can the springs be used without the adjuster peace or would the car sit way to low?

i used the springs without the adjustable perches and my car sits perfectly level. its a 2007 with stock rear wheels widened to 18x11 with toyo proxes 315/35/18 tires. i have ford racing front springs.