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2011-2014 Mustangs
2011-2014 Mustang Talk
fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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<blockquote data-quote="fishpick" data-source="post: 15568341" data-attributes="member: 182347"><p>I'm done, well, mostly done until my parts get here! Nothing left to do, mostly.</p><p>So here's some details on the throttle body, the issue and the solution. </p><p>[ATTACH]86654[/ATTACH] </p><p>On the left is the new one with all original electronics in it before I installed the screws I had to hunt down. On the right is the original "donor" - you can see the broken screws in it.</p><p>[ATTACH]86655[/ATTACH] </p><p>This is the completed throttle body - the screws I had to hunt down were unplated mild steel. So I didn't want them to rust, so I hit them with some white primer and some red paint. This is the extent of the "colors" I added under the hood. But - it's kinda cool and looks good on the blower.</p><p></p><p>Now - this is for other folks who are going to be working with this Whipple and a Ford Racing Radiator - the duct that comes in from behind the front grill to the old airbox will NOT connect because the radiator is thicker - and this in turn pushes the new Whipple airbox off kilter. The issue is the grommit in this picture I'm pointing to - so - get ye a hack saw and chot that thing off.</p><p>[ATTACH]86656[/ATTACH] </p><p>Once that's off - then drill a nice hole right in the middle and then you can push the whole duct in place and the clips with lock into the part from the grill pass thru.</p><p>[ATTACH]86657[/ATTACH] </p><p>You can see in the above pic the hole I drilled, a nice zip tie keeping things in place with the radiator bracket the grommet used to hit and on the left - you can see the clips in the duct locked in place!</p><p>[ATTACH]86658[/ATTACH] </p><p>Last tip - before you put the airbox in place, roll the rubber flange on the airbox side back all the way around like the picture shows - then once you get the airbox in place, positioned and attached, you can then "unroll" the rubber to make it "attached" to the airbox. I found the rolling it back and then unrolling let me position things exactly the way I wanted to without any resistance. Simple but effective.</p><p></p><p>I started by saying "I'm done" - so what does that mean right now? Well I ended up buying a bunch of screws I needed locally - and disassembled some hoses I didn't need (that the UPR catch can replaced) to get things I was shorted to finish heater hoses...</p><p>[ATTACH=full]86659[/ATTACH] </p><p>As I said to my wife "the warp core is installed". </p><p>I will say - damn this thing look awesome in person and is friggin HUGE!</p><p>Left to do:</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Wiring harness for the IC pump</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">The final mounting of the BAP in the trunk with the velcro</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Put the wheel wells back together</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Put the bumper cover back on and trim it (I expect this to be a bit of effort)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Put the wheels back on</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Reconnect the battery and install the Whipple tune, tune the dilithium crystals</li> </ul><p></p><p>THEN - Start her up and look for leaks!</p><p></p><p>Target date based on FedEx is Wednesday for all this.</p><p>In the meantime, I'm gonna get my straw hat and whittling knives out and start on the bumper cover trimming tomorrow.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fishpick, post: 15568341, member: 182347"] I'm done, well, mostly done until my parts get here! Nothing left to do, mostly. So here's some details on the throttle body, the issue and the solution. [ATTACH]86654[/ATTACH] On the left is the new one with all original electronics in it before I installed the screws I had to hunt down. On the right is the original "donor" - you can see the broken screws in it. [ATTACH]86655[/ATTACH] This is the completed throttle body - the screws I had to hunt down were unplated mild steel. So I didn't want them to rust, so I hit them with some white primer and some red paint. This is the extent of the "colors" I added under the hood. But - it's kinda cool and looks good on the blower. Now - this is for other folks who are going to be working with this Whipple and a Ford Racing Radiator - the duct that comes in from behind the front grill to the old airbox will NOT connect because the radiator is thicker - and this in turn pushes the new Whipple airbox off kilter. The issue is the grommit in this picture I'm pointing to - so - get ye a hack saw and chot that thing off. [ATTACH]86656[/ATTACH] Once that's off - then drill a nice hole right in the middle and then you can push the whole duct in place and the clips with lock into the part from the grill pass thru. [ATTACH]86657[/ATTACH] You can see in the above pic the hole I drilled, a nice zip tie keeping things in place with the radiator bracket the grommet used to hit and on the left - you can see the clips in the duct locked in place! [ATTACH]86658[/ATTACH] Last tip - before you put the airbox in place, roll the rubber flange on the airbox side back all the way around like the picture shows - then once you get the airbox in place, positioned and attached, you can then "unroll" the rubber to make it "attached" to the airbox. I found the rolling it back and then unrolling let me position things exactly the way I wanted to without any resistance. Simple but effective. I started by saying "I'm done" - so what does that mean right now? Well I ended up buying a bunch of screws I needed locally - and disassembled some hoses I didn't need (that the UPR catch can replaced) to get things I was shorted to finish heater hoses... [ATTACH=full]86659[/ATTACH] As I said to my wife "the warp core is installed". I will say - damn this thing look awesome in person and is friggin HUGE! Left to do: [LIST] [*]Wiring harness for the IC pump [*]The final mounting of the BAP in the trunk with the velcro [*]Put the wheel wells back together [*]Put the bumper cover back on and trim it (I expect this to be a bit of effort) [*]Put the wheels back on [*]Reconnect the battery and install the Whipple tune, tune the dilithium crystals [/LIST] THEN - Start her up and look for leaks! Target date based on FedEx is Wednesday for all this. In the meantime, I'm gonna get my straw hat and whittling knives out and start on the bumper cover trimming tomorrow. [/QUOTE]
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fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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