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2011-2014 Mustang Talk
fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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<blockquote data-quote="fishpick" data-source="post: 15564174" data-attributes="member: 182347"><p>Ok - so - yesterday I talked to Whipple (if Mike was local - he would be on the Christmas dinner invite list!) - they are sending along all the missing parts - and I got to ask some other install questions (yea!).</p><p></p><p>Right now the BIG holdup is the snapped screws from the throttle body. Ford tells me "this is a non-serviceable part - so we don't sell the little screws"... and they thread gauge out at a friggin weird M3.5-6 X 12mm... so - yeah. Fastenal can get me some plain phillips head screws - we think - that match for $2... OR I can buy a wrecker TB for $120 and hope to get 3 off it... OR - I'm leaning towards this OR - I use 2 of the screws I retrieved from the original TB to secure the motor in the housing... and then use a tap to open up the 6 holes that hold the plastic cover on and get some of the nice allen head bolts that the kit uses everywhere to finish off the TB - and that gives me easy removal options in the future without worry!</p><p></p><p>The other hold up was the automatic transmission lines in the way of the tensioner pulley and I TOTALLY solved that one. Whipple said "huh - never heard of that one, just bend the metal tubes about 10* outboard". I did - and still wasn't happy. Then I decided I think the issue may very well be because as part of this build I replaced the stock radiator and fan with FFRP and GT500 parts, respectively. At the BOTTOM of the stock radiator fan shroud there is a boss and a clip that the metal bracket on these hoses would attach to - on the GT500 fan shroud there are little opening louvers.</p><p>Higher up tho - on bot hthe stock and the GT500 fan shroud - there is a boss with a clip - and that got me thinking... So - from under the car I used a long screwdriver to pry open the 2 clips on the bracket and then pried it open to get it off the 2 metal transmission lines, leaving the rubber insert on the lines right where it has always been. This is what the bracket looks like off the lines and opened up a little.</p><p>[ATTACH]86328[/ATTACH] </p><p>From the factory it's orientated down - I figured I would rotate it 180* so the screw hole is UP and use the attachment point on the fan shroud to secure it... The second thing I also figured was - heck, if I'm doing that - let's use the bracket LIKE a bracket to push these tubes out of the way - so after bending and trial fitting - this is what I ended up with.</p><p>[ATTACH]86330[/ATTACH] </p><p>Then - I thought - let's make this really easy - and used one of the stud / nut's left over from the old radiator and tightened that down into the clip on the boss.</p><p>[ATTACH]86326[/ATTACH] </p><p>Finally, I aligned that little metal tab INTO the cutout on the boss to keep it from rotating, tightened the nut down and then used a pair of chanel-locks to squeeze the opened up part holding the tubes down snug onto the rubber bushings I left on the tubes... I was even able to bend the little tabs that kept things locked forward so there's no way the tubes can come out.</p><p>[ATTACH]86325[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]86324[/ATTACH] </p><p>This nets almost 2 inches of clearance from the tensioner and NO kinks of any sorts in the rubber tubbing portion of this... with no cutting and splicing of transmission lines needed! Best of all - it's SOLID - there's the same stock flex between the engine and the front end - but I never need worry about a line drifting over to get eaten by a belt!</p><p></p><p>I hope to get to the intercooler HE install this evening! When that's done it's then a waiting game for parts and figuring out the TB - getting excited to hear that rumble and whine!!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="fishpick, post: 15564174, member: 182347"] Ok - so - yesterday I talked to Whipple (if Mike was local - he would be on the Christmas dinner invite list!) - they are sending along all the missing parts - and I got to ask some other install questions (yea!). Right now the BIG holdup is the snapped screws from the throttle body. Ford tells me "this is a non-serviceable part - so we don't sell the little screws"... and they thread gauge out at a friggin weird M3.5-6 X 12mm... so - yeah. Fastenal can get me some plain phillips head screws - we think - that match for $2... OR I can buy a wrecker TB for $120 and hope to get 3 off it... OR - I'm leaning towards this OR - I use 2 of the screws I retrieved from the original TB to secure the motor in the housing... and then use a tap to open up the 6 holes that hold the plastic cover on and get some of the nice allen head bolts that the kit uses everywhere to finish off the TB - and that gives me easy removal options in the future without worry! The other hold up was the automatic transmission lines in the way of the tensioner pulley and I TOTALLY solved that one. Whipple said "huh - never heard of that one, just bend the metal tubes about 10* outboard". I did - and still wasn't happy. Then I decided I think the issue may very well be because as part of this build I replaced the stock radiator and fan with FFRP and GT500 parts, respectively. At the BOTTOM of the stock radiator fan shroud there is a boss and a clip that the metal bracket on these hoses would attach to - on the GT500 fan shroud there are little opening louvers. Higher up tho - on bot hthe stock and the GT500 fan shroud - there is a boss with a clip - and that got me thinking... So - from under the car I used a long screwdriver to pry open the 2 clips on the bracket and then pried it open to get it off the 2 metal transmission lines, leaving the rubber insert on the lines right where it has always been. This is what the bracket looks like off the lines and opened up a little. [ATTACH]86328[/ATTACH] From the factory it's orientated down - I figured I would rotate it 180* so the screw hole is UP and use the attachment point on the fan shroud to secure it... The second thing I also figured was - heck, if I'm doing that - let's use the bracket LIKE a bracket to push these tubes out of the way - so after bending and trial fitting - this is what I ended up with. [ATTACH]86330[/ATTACH] Then - I thought - let's make this really easy - and used one of the stud / nut's left over from the old radiator and tightened that down into the clip on the boss. [ATTACH]86326[/ATTACH] Finally, I aligned that little metal tab INTO the cutout on the boss to keep it from rotating, tightened the nut down and then used a pair of chanel-locks to squeeze the opened up part holding the tubes down snug onto the rubber bushings I left on the tubes... I was even able to bend the little tabs that kept things locked forward so there's no way the tubes can come out. [ATTACH]86325[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]86324[/ATTACH] This nets almost 2 inches of clearance from the tensioner and NO kinks of any sorts in the rubber tubbing portion of this... with no cutting and splicing of transmission lines needed! Best of all - it's SOLID - there's the same stock flex between the engine and the front end - but I never need worry about a line drifting over to get eaten by a belt! I hope to get to the intercooler HE install this evening! When that's done it's then a waiting game for parts and figuring out the TB - getting excited to hear that rumble and whine!!! [/QUOTE]
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fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)
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