Factory engine may have let go.

ruthless

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Just looking for some insight...

For those that know about my build it was bound to happen. Had a happy life running on 16 psi and 93 pump but then my boost controller freaked out and me wanting a number at a track rental may have put an end to it. Boost spiked to 20psi on its last run and it was a freaking rocket for a short time. Then the coolant hit the windshield and went under the back tires. Was a fun ride but kept it under control. lol

So now I have a decision... Use my built 4.6 that's for another project or get the current engine in the car rebuilt.

The current build is a custom built turbo kit by Street Lethal Performance. The kit is built to handle 1000hp but I never built the engine because I was happy with the car and didn't want to ever cut it up for a cage. It put down 620rwhp with the TH400 transmission and 750ish with the T56 on 93 pump using a 76mm precision BB billet turbo. Best pass was a 10.3 at 137mph (Yes it had more in it and I was just getting the suspension kinda working)

The built engine was put together to take 1500hp with 9.5 compression. It has stage 3 cams and stage 2 heads (didn't want to risk blowing a hole in a ported head), Sullivan intake with a HPP upper and dragon TB.

Currently the Cobra has a returnless fuel system with fore hat, fore rails, -8 feed, MDM jr, GT pumps and 60lbs injectors so that will need upgraded.

Now my question is, will I need to use or is it a should I use an aftermarket computer with this engine? I have one but don't want to use up all of my parts for the race car and I like my cobras factory appearing interior.
 

badcobra

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Do you want to the Cobra up and running right away? If yes, then hell yeah use the built motor you already have. Do a return system and make the switch to e85, then crank the boost up.

If you don't care if the Cobra is running this summer, then go ahead and pull it and build a new motor. I'd go aluminum teksid or aluminator block as the foundation and do it up right.
 

ruthless

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Do you want to the Cobra up and running right away? If yes, then hell yeah use the built motor you already have. Do a return system and make the switch to e85, then crank the boost up.

If you don't care if the Cobra is running this summer, then go ahead and pull it and build a new motor. I'd go aluminum teksid or aluminator block as the foundation and do it up right.

I talked to the shop and after some discussion we put two plans together but its looking like the built engine is going to find its way into the cobra. The engine rebuild is going to need a bunch of prep work since I have been running the car for a few years.

I will run race gas but I don't have e85 in the area that is worth a crap.

My current built engine is a Teksid block. hehe
 
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ruthless

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this...did it actually break the motor or just a lift a head or something?

Still looking into it but the cooling system got hit with pressure so hard it blew the hose going to the thermostat housing and blew coolant out from around the expansion tank cap.

I have been told by a few people to look at the oil cooler so I will start with a compression test and then a leak down test to pinpoint where the issue is.
 

Joyrider564

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Good luck with the rebuild. I was making a pull against a bike on the highway and had a charge tube pop off my intake. Took out the upper radiator hose and I thought my motor was toast. I was happy when it was NOT!
 

ruthless

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Good luck with the rebuild. I was making a pull against a bike on the highway and had a charge tube pop off my intake. Took out the upper radiator hose and I thought my motor was toast. I was happy when it was NOT!

Sounds like you lucked out. I still haven't had a chance to look the car over much. Mother nature decided to make it snow here yesterday. When loading it on the trailer, I noticed that there was coolant around the expansion tank cap and that the hose was off the thermostat housing. That and no coolant in the oil. I will try to dig into it more tonight.

I am keeping my fingers crossed that everything is ok but all signs are pointing to no.
 

ruthless

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I pulled the plugs out and physicaly they all look great, no signs of detination like I have seen on some plugs pics posted on the net. However good old #7 was wet with coolant. I think the old girl was just tired of my ways. 21k on the clock with nothing but 93 pump and then jacked the power up to 750rwhp on her last few years.
 
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ruthless

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The engine and trans are out and sitting in the garage. Still researching fuel systems and what I want to do with the car. I may pull the head and see if anything else was hurt when the head gasket went. I am not in a big hurry as you can tell. Still saving up funds for whatever direction I go with this.

I am sure the shop would love to see the built engine go in just to see what that 76mm precision turbo has in it. I don't know of many people maxing it out.
 

JetmechF16

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Can you send me a pic of your Sullivan/HPP/Dragon setup? I also have the sullivan with a rotated HPP upper and am now shopping for a t/b. Are you running a remote IAC valve? If so, did you weld up the air ports in the throttle body?
 

ruthless

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Now that you mention it, I have the dragon TB without the IAC built in since this was going to be used with a BS3. The iac I have is a GM style with a billet housing. I would run a hose from the back of this housing to the charge pipe pre-throttle body to hook it up.

Not sure what I would need to get this to work with a factory computer.
 

JetmechF16

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Now that you mention it, I have the dragon TB without the IAC built in since this was going to be used with a BS3. The iac I have is a GM style with a billet housing. I would run a hose from the back of this housing to the charge pipe pre-throttle body to hook it up.

Not sure what I would need to get this to work with a factory computer.

Not sure with the GM style housing, I'm using the stock IAC valve mounted on the HPP upper intake and running a line to the intake tube between the MAF and t/b. here's a pic, just need the t/b now!

IMAG0219_zpsgwgpvv9d.jpg
 

ruthless

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Same setup I have except the IAC valve. I just plug the port your hose connects too on the intake manifold and put it on the billet iac housing. You will need a TB without the IAC built in and an iac valve from a mach1 (cobras have the pressed on metal cap that like to leak). The HPP intake uses the hose to draw in air for idle and not the port in the TB.

You will need P/N 600‐2. I believe it was made for the 2v guys.
I will verify when I get home.

I am going to have to trim/port my HPP upper to clean the dragon TB blade.
 
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JetmechF16

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Yeah I've already talked to LFP, they are machining me one of their Big Mouth t/bs without the air ports. Didn't know the cobra IAC valves leaked, I'll look into the Mach 1 valve.
 

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