F150 Front Brake Problems

[railroad]

67K miles on my 2013 F150 Lariat SCC, ecoboost.
Factory brake pads had dime size pieces of metal in the pad material. It made grinding noises and scoring on the disc.
I turned the most affected rotor and replaced the pads with a Wagner pad.
A few months later, the caliper is sticking and rotor is warping when hot.
Long story, short, new life time calipers, new Delco rotors, parts store replaced same pads under warranty.
Still getting shudder on stopping. Put a thermal gun on the rotors after a long trip, very light brake use, 165* F on one side 212* F on the other side.
Obviously, to me, the hot side is dragging again. Brake dust is more than usual.
Parts store warrantied their caliper, same time as the new pads.
Truck has had the recall related to loss of brake fluid done.
Just hard to believe, I have had 3 bad calipers on the drivers side.
Whats next? Truck is well maintained, no off roading or long term heavy hauling.
Flex brake hose, shows no external stress, or deterioration. I know it would be internal if an issue.
Hate to start swapping parts, more than I already have.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

the hoses tend to degrade internally and fluid doesn't return properly when you let off the pedal. I would replace that section of rubber line to the caliper. I believe they've also found one of the pieces that hold the brake lines in place have a tendency to get rusty and and makes them pinch the line a bit so I'd check those too

I did brakes on mine not long ago, changed fluid etc., annoyed with myself for not proactively replacing the lines when I did that.

 

[railroad]

the hoses tend to degrade internally and fluid doesn't return properly when you let off the pedal. I would replace that section of rubber line to the caliper. I believe they've also found one of the pieces that hold the brake lines in place have a tendency to get rusty and and makes them pinch the line a bit so I'd check those too

I did brakes on mine not long ago, changed fluid etc., annoyed with myself for not proactively replacing the lines when I did that.

Thanks for the reply. I think I will open the bleeder after driving and see if there is any pressure in the caliper.
I guess the flex brake line is the next logical link in the chain.
I live in the South and have no rust issues yet, but will give everything a check.
This is getting old fast.

 

[Bullitt1448]

Had a similar issue on my 2010 F150 SCC, to make a long story short it turned out to be not enough lube on the calliper slide pins on one side. Drove me nuts till I found it.

 

[railroad]

Had a similar issue on my 2010 F150 SCC, to make a long story short it turned out to be not enough lube on the calliper slide pins on one side. Drove me nuts till I found it.

Thanks for the tip.
The new calipers I installed had new hardware and good coating of grease on the slide pins. They really moved freely.
I think I gravity bleed the calipers, prior to having someone pump the brakes.
That makes me think the lines are flowing freely, but I will still check for residual pressure at the caliper and disconnect the flex hose and see if the fluid will drain by gravity.
I have heard of internal damage on a hose acting like a check valve.
Hard for me to grasp that one, but changing out the hose, will eliminate the doubt.

 

[Bullitt1448]

i changed the hoses out too, couldn't see an issue with the old ones but new parts never hurt and brake hoses are a safety thing. wise move

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

Thanks for the tip.
The new calipers I installed had new hardware and good coating of grease on the slide pins. They really moved freely.
I think I gravity bleed the calipers, prior to having someone pump the brakes.
That makes me think the lines are flowing freely, but I will still check for residual pressure at the caliper and disconnect the flex hose and see if the fluid will drain by gravity.
I have heard of internal damage on a hose acting like a check valve.
Hard for me to grasp that one, but changing out the hose, will eliminate the doubt.

but when you let off the brakes that fluid needs to return quickly through the line. The flow rate matters and it isn't under the same pressure when returning.

We went through this on our super duty as well, the lines looked fine but we changed em anyway and it cleared it up.

 

[railroad]

but when you let off the brakes that fluid needs to return quickly through the line. The flow rate matters and it isn't under the same pressure when returning.

We went through this on our super duty as well, the lines looked fine but we changed em anyway and it cleared it up.

Thanks so much for the info. That really gives me confidence, I can resolve the issue.
I was dreading going through the caliper issue again.
I am going to call my parts store and make sure they have the hose in stock. Due to make a 100 mile plus trip next week and do not want those pads dragging.

 

[railroad]

I googled the Oriellys hoses,,,seems about half of them come with the wrong threads on the hard line end.
That is what I ended up with and had to go to a diff store. Theirs did have the fine thread end, right one, same part number.
Got the left front changed out.
Old hose was actually easier to blow through than the new one.
The hose does make a couple of turns down to the caliper, but everything is clocked from the clip retainer, to the bolt on mount and then to the caliper.
Still getting a low temp on the rt front rotor.
I am going to drive it and if the rt rotor and pads are not bedded by then, I will change the rt front hose.
No chatter on test drive, but it was not a long drive.