Been on the fence about the weep hole (kinda hard to imagine drilling holes into stock components on a semi-brand new truck), it seems like the consensus is to go ahead and drill the hole tho. Bottom, driverside of the intercooler, 1/16th hole correct?
F150 Ecoboost - important things to know
- Thread starter 02_Lightning
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2001
- Messages
- 1,281
Correct- it would not hurt to have a larger hole in there so that all the crap can get blown out. This is a sure fire way to prolong the life of the engine. In my research, I actually found that it doesn't take much to hydrolock this engine. I amglad that I got out of mine unscathed and back into a 6.2 L truck. I could not be happier and I feel safe again.
Yeah, I heard drilling a 2 7/8ths hole is the best size, that way if you happen to get a golf ball in there, it'll get blown out easily.
I cannot fathom purposely creating a boost leak. I spent hours and hours chasing down tiny pinhole leaks on my setup and was probably not even losing any boost/power b/c of them.
Because racecar.
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2001
- Messages
- 1,281
I can see how you would think it would be a boost leak, but it has proved to not do that. Other manufacturers had weep holes for this type of application prior to the strict epa regulations.
Wow, I can't believe the amount of misinformation out there.
A google image search on Hydro Lock EcoBoost shows a bunch of detonated pistons people are claiming is from hydro locking.
This is detonation: (lean)
So is this: (too much timing or not enough octane)
and this: (Rod pic from piston above)
And the threads where I found these pictures are claiming to by hydro locking from water in the intercooler.
A google image search on Hydro Lock EcoBoost shows a bunch of detonated pistons people are claiming is from hydro locking.
This is detonation: (lean)
So is this: (too much timing or not enough octane)
and this: (Rod pic from piston above)
And the threads where I found these pictures are claiming to by hydro locking from water in the intercooler.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2001
- Messages
- 1,281
For what it is worth, I found the info on how much fluid can hydrolock the engine:
"so I just calculated the volume of the combustion chamber based on the compression ratio and engine displacement. It's 2.1 ounces. Anything more than this will cause hydrolock."
"so I just calculated the volume of the combustion chamber based on the compression ratio and engine displacement. It's 2.1 ounces. Anything more than this will cause hydrolock."
two questions
1) Sean - in those pictures the rod bending and causing the piston to rub the side of the cylinder cant cause that kind of damage? Ive only ever seen the tops of pistons that are usually all marked up from detonation. I (obviously) dont know much about how it looks just looking at ringlands etc...
2) 02 - is that 2.1 ounces in a single cylinder? Just thinking out loud in that case there would have to be a lot more than 2.1 ounces to get that much in a single runner and cylinder all at once
1) Sean - in those pictures the rod bending and causing the piston to rub the side of the cylinder cant cause that kind of damage? Ive only ever seen the tops of pistons that are usually all marked up from detonation. I (obviously) dont know much about how it looks just looking at ringlands etc...
2) 02 - is that 2.1 ounces in a single cylinder? Just thinking out loud in that case there would have to be a lot more than 2.1 ounces to get that much in a single runner and cylinder all at once
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2001
- Messages
- 1,281
Not sure, but the conversation was from a guy with a stock truck with bent rod(s) and piston top that looked luke that. The bent rod (from hydrolock) dug the top of the piston into the cylinder wall.
Correct.
If you pour ~50cc's of water into one cylinder you will hyro lock a 3.5L engine.
However it's not likely you can get 50cc's into one cylinder on a running engine without having significantly more water entering the manifold.
Given the inter cooler is physically feet below the intake manifold and water does not get sucked up from the inter cooler all at once, we are talking about a fine spray of water that would need to collect in the bottom of the intake manifold and then pour into 1 cylinder all at once in order to hydro lock the cylinder.
I do drive my truck in the rain, which is as humid as it gets and I've not had any issues others are experiencing. I've also used water to clean cylinders on running engines in the past. A fine spray of water into the intake while holding the RPM's between 2 and 3K RPM. 1/2+ gallon of water over a 10min process. Never hyrdo locked an engine.
Last edited:
No, the piston is cracked between the top and 2nd ring, this is from the rings butting up and flexing, breaking the piston. Ring gaps close as the rings expand with heat. Detonation creates a TON of heat and will 'rattle' the piston in the bore as the rings lose contact with the cylinder bore. The Pinging you can audibly hear in some engines is the piston physically rattling in the bore. Tap tap tap....
With heat (detonation creates far more heat than normal) and the rings fluttering you will see exactly what's in that picture, broken ring lands at their weakest point. Sometimes it's the top ring land that breaks a piece of the piston top off, other times it's the material between the top and 2nd ring.
If you lose a piece of the piston it has 2 places it can go if it does not stay in place. One is down into the oil pan or up into the combustion chamber. This piece of piston will not compress between the head and piston, resulting in a bent or broken rod (depending on how big the piece is) if it does not escape thru the exhaust valve. If damage is not total, you can normally see where the piece of piston contacted the head and piston top.
Depending on how far out of the bottom of the bore the piston comes at the bottom of the stroke, a 'loose' piston from rattling too much (rattling pistons rolls the skirts increasing piston to wall clearance) can get stuck cockied at the bottom of the skirt and break a rod easily. Not saying that is the case with the EcoBoost block design as I've not seen one apart to check, but this is a problem we see on the 4" stroke LS engines. A few years back we had an LS at the shop that was built by a big name TX LS shop. About 800 miles on the engine and it broke a rod on startup one day. World products block, turned out the cylinder sleeves used were .100" shorter than stock. Loose piston to wall clearance was a contributing factor of course. In this case you would not see piston damage like the previously posted pics. You'd see skirt damage only.
Disassembly and proper inspection will tell the tale in most cases.
Last edited:
Wow. I have a 2012 Eco-boost F150 with over 160K. I run 87 often mainly for highway drives to work. No issues so far and runs like a champ.
Last edited:
OP is stating his preference based on his experience. Which is fine. But stating that all these engines are a fail because of HIS experience is ridiculous. You cannot throw out a blanket statement and expect it to be factual. Shaun at AED has proven that it is just not true with EVIDENCE not conjecture.
Hey Shaun@AED and 02_Lightning, if I may draw your attention to my thread here when you get time:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-on-showing-cat-failure-(P0420)-and-need-help
You seem knowledgable on the vehicle and I would love your input.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-on-showing-cat-failure-(P0420)-and-need-help
You seem knowledgable on the vehicle and I would love your input.
So happy my 2015 has a good old reliable 5 liter. You couldn't give me a damn ecojunk.
meh, 67k miles on my ecoboost, Ive changed plugs once and outside of that its just oil and filter. Still happy with my choice
- Status
Users who are viewing this thread
