Everyone thats done an engine swap COME IN!!

Did you remove the cab to pull the motor?


  • Total voters
    46
  • Poll closed .

jster171

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We just finished pulling my motor WITHOUT pulling the cab and it was a pain in the royal ASS!! I'm now thinking that I should have just used our lift and pulled the darn cab. Things would have been so much more accessable. Did you lift the cab to pull your motor?
 

fuelonempty

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Nope, did it with the AC condenser and radiator in place too!
 

RIDE THE

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I've done it both ways and I actually think that its more work to remove the cab.





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If you remove the radiator, the wire loom that runs along the firewall and all of the crap on the front of the engine it will come out without touching a thing. I also found it much easier to remove and install with removing the oil cooler housing. Just the housing where the filter screws onto.
 

jster171

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Wow, this really surprises me. We had issues with so many things. For example, the wiring harness. The female ends for the 02 sensors are attached to the back of the heads and we couldnt get in there to them to make them "let go", not to mention just getting the male end to unplug. So we ended up leaving the harness attached and laying it in the middle of the block and pulling it all together. There are 2 bell housing bolts that gave us a fit too. One of them can't be gotten to until the exhaust is outta the way. Theres a ton of "sequence of events" that I can see MUST happen during re-installation or you will find yourself doing "rework" meaning, taking an item back off because something else cant be gotten to with that certain item in the way. Seems to have ALOT of that scenario as a sure fire possibility. This poll wasn't really meant as a "can you get it out" poll but a "which way makes the whole job easier" kinda poll. None the less, looks like leaving the cab on is prefered.

harness.jpg
 

RIDE THE

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I myself find those engine leveling booms to be more of a hassle than a help. I have always just used a chain with a hook on the engine hoist. :shrug:
 

lightninmike

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I did it the same way Eric did. Moved the engine right to the radiator support and straight up. I got to the O2 sensors thru the wheel well, it wasnt easy but can be done. And the removal of the oil cooler is a must if you like keeping your cool
 

Z7What

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When we did my swap we removed the old, lowered the new in place then relized we didnt check to see if the 4R100 and 4R70W had the same flywheel. So we pulled it out measured and made sure and dropped it in and finished the install. From start to cranking it took 11hours with two people. Stopped twice to eat and stopped twice to go to the parts store. I have never done it before, the helper has done it 2-3 times.

Wayne
 
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jster171

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PhLoBus,

I followed your post and Good lord, thats insane!! Luckily, we have a lift in our shop that should make that task a little easier? Do you have or know of a step by step for this process?
 
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ecoastkid

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Out through the top in pieces (stripped down to the shortblock...then pulled)

Back in through the bottom. Both ways sucked...lol

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doofoo

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Started really getting into my swap today. So far pulled the bower, ic, fan, shrouds and pretty much everything else. Hardest thing like everyone said was getting to the o2 sensor's on the passenger side.

Finally got it after removing the wheel well liners and digging behind the engine.

Ready to pull the engine now, just need to unbolt from the tranny and get to the motor mounts. Those of you pulling the engines in a garage on jackstands/etc, what did you use to support the front of the transmission while pulling the motor, and while it was out of the truck? I'm not using a lift, so just thought it might need some support? Just a jack/block of wood?
 

Harley#356

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use a floor jack. then once the motors out you can wedge a jackstand between the top of the trans case and the front crossmember, this way you can wheel the truck around and keep the trans up in place.

Don't forget the converter bolts
 

doofoo

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use a floor jack. then once the motors out you can wedge a jackstand between the top of the trans case and the front crossmember, this way you can wheel the truck around and keep the trans up in place.

Don't forget the converter bolts

Yup on the converter bolts.. Will do with the jack and floorstands. Thanks!
 

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