Okay, went to do this mod and every "how to" had great pictures, but the few that were shown were ALL done with the supercharger OFF. If you have the option of doing this with the supercharger off I would highly suggest it, but if you don't have that luxury, or are just too lazy like I am.....here you go!
*note: I will be adding pictures over the next couple days as I can get them*
(1) Get the front of the car in the air. This will allow you to get underneath and get to the 1 1/16 bolt that holds the EGR tube in place on the exhaust manifold. Loosen it up, but there is no need to remove it.
(2) I started with the radiator hose in the front of the car. Cut about 2" or so off the side that connects to the metal crossover tube that goes into the manifold. Make sure to save the 2" you cut off. You will most likely need to cut this metal tube as well. I used a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut back to the "lip" of this metal tube (about an 1 1//2" or so). Make sure to stuff something in the hole so that metal shavings don't' get in.
(3) Install the aluminum "T" that comes with the generation II kit using the 2" piece of radiator hose from above and for now put the open end (smallest part of the "T" that will eventually lead to the back of the head) facing straight up in the air. This will be used for burping. Tighten the two clamps on the right side and re-install the original one on the left.
(4) Move to the heater core hoses. These are a bit of a pain. I started by pushing in the clip on the underside and used a flat head screwdriver to push on the top side part of the clip. They came off easily this way. You might be able to put them in with just your fingertips, but I couldn't' position my hand correctly to get enough pressure to push them both in at once....just one. You will only need to remove the left hand side heater core hose (facing the front of the car). The other one can be left in place, but still needs to be undone on the heater core side so it can be pushed out of the way. These are pre bent hoses and they insist on getting in the way. Use a zip tie to hold BOTH heads of these hoses out of the way so you can get to the clamp that goes onto the tube that connects to the passenger side head.
(5) Remove the left side (from front of car) heater hose. This will involve getting to a clamp that holds the hose onto a tube connected to the back of the passenger side head. With the hose heads secured out of the way, use a set of 8" (or longer if you can find some) needle nose pliers and go in from the top. I literally went straight down. This clamp will probably be stuck so work it left and right and push down. Just get it off the hose. When it finally drops down, cut the zip tie holding that one hose and pull it off. I used a magnet to get the clamp.
(6) Remove the restrictor from the heater hose. This involves "unclamping" a "crimp style" clamp holding it in place. It is under the metal mesh that is covering the hose. I used a set of small needle nose pliers to undo this clamp. There is a small cylindrical piece in the hose that you can either "milk" out by working it down the hose or in my case, I had to use the needle nose pliers. It will fall apart when you finally get it removed. Take out the small "restrictor" that is in the middle. It looks like a rubber washer or thick ring seal. Now reinstall the now restrictorless cylinder. Don't forget to reinstall the clamp holding it in place as well.
(7) re-attach the heater core hoses. Instead of using the clamp that originally held the heater hose to the metal tube on the head, I went and bought a "keyed" hose clamp from pep boys. This was MUCH easier than trying to put the original clamp on by squeezing it with needle nose pliers until the hose was in place on the metal tube. I could install this one by hand.
(8) Remove everything from the passenger side of the supercharger. If it can't be removed easily, move it. The wiring harness has a clip holding it on the back of the supercharger. If you pull straight up, it will come loose (you won't get a ton of slack, but anything helps....trust me) Clear a way to get to the freeze plug.
(9) Remove the freeze plug. This can be a HUGE headache, but don't' give up. Evenflow suggests drilling a hole and using a course bolt to pull it out if it won't come. This should be a last ditch effort. There is a small lip on the head that will stop it (or at least make it harder) from falling into the head. UNLESS THE FREEZE PLUG IS FLAT AGAINST THAT LIP AT THE VERY BOTTOM DO NOT DRILL!!!! Use a long flat nose punch and keep hitting on one side. As you can see in the pictures, mine was almost all the way to the bottom. I split it trying to drill it and it still wouldn't come out. So, frustrated I kept hitting on the same side as I had started and out she came. Clean out the hole with a rag, some fine sand paper and brake/carb cleaner.
(10) Test fit and trim the hold down plate. I used the dremel and cut off wheel again. Make sure that it will set on the head and line up with the bolt hole easily.
(11) Now put together the new Evenflow kit piece that will replace the freeze plug, screwing in the new barbed fitting. I used some plumbers tape over the threads to seal them. I left off the blue hose for now as the space you have to put in the bolt on the hold down plate is very small. Use a piece of electrical tape to hold the plate onto the new aluminum fitting.
(12) Install the new aluminum fitting. I used Indian head gasket sealant instead of petroleum jelly as a "back up" for the o-ring that seals the new fitting. Use blue locktite on the small bolt and go in from the top with a long extension to get to it. It might take more than one try. I had to use a magnet to hold the bolt and lock washer together so I could get it in the hole without the lock washer falling back behind the engine.. Once in the hole I used my hands to start it and a socket wrench to tighten it down. Note the new location of the wiring harness in the picture on step (13). If it is not in this position when you attempt to put it in, you might not get it to set in properly. This gets it out of the way and gives you more space.
(13) Now install the blue hose and the right angle brass tee. Note the location of the wiring harness again in the photo below.
(14) Install the new hose on this back fitting and rout it up toward the front. Follow the directions for burping the car given with the kit and and you are DONE!!!! :dancenana:
*note: I will be adding pictures over the next couple days as I can get them*
(1) Get the front of the car in the air. This will allow you to get underneath and get to the 1 1/16 bolt that holds the EGR tube in place on the exhaust manifold. Loosen it up, but there is no need to remove it.
(2) I started with the radiator hose in the front of the car. Cut about 2" or so off the side that connects to the metal crossover tube that goes into the manifold. Make sure to save the 2" you cut off. You will most likely need to cut this metal tube as well. I used a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut back to the "lip" of this metal tube (about an 1 1//2" or so). Make sure to stuff something in the hole so that metal shavings don't' get in.
(3) Install the aluminum "T" that comes with the generation II kit using the 2" piece of radiator hose from above and for now put the open end (smallest part of the "T" that will eventually lead to the back of the head) facing straight up in the air. This will be used for burping. Tighten the two clamps on the right side and re-install the original one on the left.
(4) Move to the heater core hoses. These are a bit of a pain. I started by pushing in the clip on the underside and used a flat head screwdriver to push on the top side part of the clip. They came off easily this way. You might be able to put them in with just your fingertips, but I couldn't' position my hand correctly to get enough pressure to push them both in at once....just one. You will only need to remove the left hand side heater core hose (facing the front of the car). The other one can be left in place, but still needs to be undone on the heater core side so it can be pushed out of the way. These are pre bent hoses and they insist on getting in the way. Use a zip tie to hold BOTH heads of these hoses out of the way so you can get to the clamp that goes onto the tube that connects to the passenger side head.
(5) Remove the left side (from front of car) heater hose. This will involve getting to a clamp that holds the hose onto a tube connected to the back of the passenger side head. With the hose heads secured out of the way, use a set of 8" (or longer if you can find some) needle nose pliers and go in from the top. I literally went straight down. This clamp will probably be stuck so work it left and right and push down. Just get it off the hose. When it finally drops down, cut the zip tie holding that one hose and pull it off. I used a magnet to get the clamp.
(6) Remove the restrictor from the heater hose. This involves "unclamping" a "crimp style" clamp holding it in place. It is under the metal mesh that is covering the hose. I used a set of small needle nose pliers to undo this clamp. There is a small cylindrical piece in the hose that you can either "milk" out by working it down the hose or in my case, I had to use the needle nose pliers. It will fall apart when you finally get it removed. Take out the small "restrictor" that is in the middle. It looks like a rubber washer or thick ring seal. Now reinstall the now restrictorless cylinder. Don't forget to reinstall the clamp holding it in place as well.
(7) re-attach the heater core hoses. Instead of using the clamp that originally held the heater hose to the metal tube on the head, I went and bought a "keyed" hose clamp from pep boys. This was MUCH easier than trying to put the original clamp on by squeezing it with needle nose pliers until the hose was in place on the metal tube. I could install this one by hand.
(8) Remove everything from the passenger side of the supercharger. If it can't be removed easily, move it. The wiring harness has a clip holding it on the back of the supercharger. If you pull straight up, it will come loose (you won't get a ton of slack, but anything helps....trust me) Clear a way to get to the freeze plug.
(9) Remove the freeze plug. This can be a HUGE headache, but don't' give up. Evenflow suggests drilling a hole and using a course bolt to pull it out if it won't come. This should be a last ditch effort. There is a small lip on the head that will stop it (or at least make it harder) from falling into the head. UNLESS THE FREEZE PLUG IS FLAT AGAINST THAT LIP AT THE VERY BOTTOM DO NOT DRILL!!!! Use a long flat nose punch and keep hitting on one side. As you can see in the pictures, mine was almost all the way to the bottom. I split it trying to drill it and it still wouldn't come out. So, frustrated I kept hitting on the same side as I had started and out she came. Clean out the hole with a rag, some fine sand paper and brake/carb cleaner.
(10) Test fit and trim the hold down plate. I used the dremel and cut off wheel again. Make sure that it will set on the head and line up with the bolt hole easily.
(11) Now put together the new Evenflow kit piece that will replace the freeze plug, screwing in the new barbed fitting. I used some plumbers tape over the threads to seal them. I left off the blue hose for now as the space you have to put in the bolt on the hold down plate is very small. Use a piece of electrical tape to hold the plate onto the new aluminum fitting.
(12) Install the new aluminum fitting. I used Indian head gasket sealant instead of petroleum jelly as a "back up" for the o-ring that seals the new fitting. Use blue locktite on the small bolt and go in from the top with a long extension to get to it. It might take more than one try. I had to use a magnet to hold the bolt and lock washer together so I could get it in the hole without the lock washer falling back behind the engine.. Once in the hole I used my hands to start it and a socket wrench to tighten it down. Note the new location of the wiring harness in the picture on step (13). If it is not in this position when you attempt to put it in, you might not get it to set in properly. This gets it out of the way and gives you more space.
(13) Now install the blue hose and the right angle brass tee. Note the location of the wiring harness again in the photo below.
(14) Install the new hose on this back fitting and rout it up toward the front. Follow the directions for burping the car given with the kit and and you are DONE!!!! :dancenana:
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