Even Flow Gen II "how to" without supercharger removal

suaveflooder

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Okay, went to do this mod and every "how to" had great pictures, but the few that were shown were ALL done with the supercharger OFF. If you have the option of doing this with the supercharger off I would highly suggest it, but if you don't have that luxury, or are just too lazy like I am.....here you go!

*note: I will be adding pictures over the next couple days as I can get them*

(1) Get the front of the car in the air. This will allow you to get underneath and get to the 1 1/16 bolt that holds the EGR tube in place on the exhaust manifold. Loosen it up, but there is no need to remove it.

(2) I started with the radiator hose in the front of the car. Cut about 2" or so off the side that connects to the metal crossover tube that goes into the manifold. Make sure to save the 2" you cut off. You will most likely need to cut this metal tube as well. I used a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut back to the "lip" of this metal tube (about an 1 1//2" or so). Make sure to stuff something in the hole so that metal shavings don't' get in.

(3) Install the aluminum "T" that comes with the generation II kit using the 2" piece of radiator hose from above and for now put the open end (smallest part of the "T" that will eventually lead to the back of the head) facing straight up in the air. This will be used for burping. Tighten the two clamps on the right side and re-install the original one on the left.

(4) Move to the heater core hoses. These are a bit of a pain. I started by pushing in the clip on the underside and used a flat head screwdriver to push on the top side part of the clip. They came off easily this way. You might be able to put them in with just your fingertips, but I couldn't' position my hand correctly to get enough pressure to push them both in at once....just one. You will only need to remove the left hand side heater core hose (facing the front of the car). The other one can be left in place, but still needs to be undone on the heater core side so it can be pushed out of the way. These are pre bent hoses and they insist on getting in the way. Use a zip tie to hold BOTH heads of these hoses out of the way so you can get to the clamp that goes onto the tube that connects to the passenger side head.

(5) Remove the left side (from front of car) heater hose. This will involve getting to a clamp that holds the hose onto a tube connected to the back of the passenger side head. With the hose heads secured out of the way, use a set of 8" (or longer if you can find some) needle nose pliers and go in from the top. I literally went straight down. This clamp will probably be stuck so work it left and right and push down. Just get it off the hose. When it finally drops down, cut the zip tie holding that one hose and pull it off. I used a magnet to get the clamp.

(6) Remove the restrictor from the heater hose. This involves "unclamping" a "crimp style" clamp holding it in place. It is under the metal mesh that is covering the hose. I used a set of small needle nose pliers to undo this clamp. There is a small cylindrical piece in the hose that you can either "milk" out by working it down the hose or in my case, I had to use the needle nose pliers. It will fall apart when you finally get it removed. Take out the small "restrictor" that is in the middle. It looks like a rubber washer or thick ring seal. Now reinstall the now restrictorless cylinder. Don't forget to reinstall the clamp holding it in place as well.

(7) re-attach the heater core hoses. Instead of using the clamp that originally held the heater hose to the metal tube on the head, I went and bought a "keyed" hose clamp from pep boys. This was MUCH easier than trying to put the original clamp on by squeezing it with needle nose pliers until the hose was in place on the metal tube. I could install this one by hand.
IMG00083.jpg



(8) Remove everything from the passenger side of the supercharger. If it can't be removed easily, move it. The wiring harness has a clip holding it on the back of the supercharger. If you pull straight up, it will come loose (you won't get a ton of slack, but anything helps....trust me) Clear a way to get to the freeze plug.
IMG00053.jpg

IMG00045.jpg


(9) Remove the freeze plug. This can be a HUGE headache, but don't' give up. Evenflow suggests drilling a hole and using a course bolt to pull it out if it won't come. This should be a last ditch effort. There is a small lip on the head that will stop it (or at least make it harder) from falling into the head. UNLESS THE FREEZE PLUG IS FLAT AGAINST THAT LIP AT THE VERY BOTTOM DO NOT DRILL!!!! Use a long flat nose punch and keep hitting on one side. As you can see in the pictures, mine was almost all the way to the bottom. I split it trying to drill it and it still wouldn't come out. So, frustrated I kept hitting on the same side as I had started and out she came. Clean out the hole with a rag, some fine sand paper and brake/carb cleaner.

IMG00048.jpg

IMG00054.jpg

IMG00049.jpg


(10) Test fit and trim the hold down plate. I used the dremel and cut off wheel again. Make sure that it will set on the head and line up with the bolt hole easily.

(11) Now put together the new Evenflow kit piece that will replace the freeze plug, screwing in the new barbed fitting. I used some plumbers tape over the threads to seal them. I left off the blue hose for now as the space you have to put in the bolt on the hold down plate is very small. Use a piece of electrical tape to hold the plate onto the new aluminum fitting.
IMG00086.jpg


(12) Install the new aluminum fitting. I used Indian head gasket sealant instead of petroleum jelly as a "back up" for the o-ring that seals the new fitting. Use blue locktite on the small bolt and go in from the top with a long extension to get to it. It might take more than one try. I had to use a magnet to hold the bolt and lock washer together so I could get it in the hole without the lock washer falling back behind the engine.. Once in the hole I used my hands to start it and a socket wrench to tighten it down. Note the new location of the wiring harness in the picture on step (13). If it is not in this position when you attempt to put it in, you might not get it to set in properly. This gets it out of the way and gives you more space.
IMG00087.jpg

IMG00088.jpg

IMG00089.jpg


(13) Now install the blue hose and the right angle brass tee. Note the location of the wiring harness again in the photo below.
IMG00055.jpg


(14) Install the new hose on this back fitting and rout it up toward the front. Follow the directions for burping the car given with the kit and and you are DONE!!!! :dancenana:
 
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Silverboost

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got mine that I still need to install....just curious, but why do you need to remove the restrictor for the heater core?
 

suaveflooder

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It is not necessary. The idea is to get "even flow" to both heads. I know many people who don't mess with this step. The reason being is that the problem head is the driver's side. Even with the restrictor left in place the "problem" is still taken care of. Just something that allows for more flow to the passenger side head.
 
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AmericanRicer87

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I just did this yesterday, wow talk about a pain in the ass... that freeze out plug was a joke. It did NOT want to came out of there... I did it with the blower on and pretty much followed this write up and lethals instructions and didn't have any issue besides getting that heater hose back on behind the head.. just reminded me why I work on class 8 trucks!
 

SilverCobra7

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I recently did mine earlier this week... With the blower on too. Not as bad as I thought, room to work with was pretty tight!
 

chopperrescue

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Started mine this morning. I dropped the mounting plate behind the engine after having to remove it for triming!!! I cant find it or feel it anywere. I guess I'll call lethal in the morning and see if they will sell just the plate. Car is on the rack - hope to finnish it soon.
 

Blueline

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Its not that bad. I did mine w/o removing the blower and it took me about 3 hours. A little tight, but not impossible.
 

suaveflooder

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i need to do this but it just sounds like a pain in the ass, lol

HAHA! It's really not that bad. The hardest part about the whole thing is getting the freeze plug out. Hit it toward the front and it'll come out pretty easily. The rest of it is a snap.
 

chopperrescue

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I have a question, The EGR tube and wiring harness are touching after you lift your wiring harness over the fuel rail to make access to the rear head. I had pushed down the cover on the egr tube and forgot to pull it back up when the mod was finnished and the result was some melting of the tape on the wiring harness, I caught it pretty quick. With that being said, will the protective covering (sleeve) on the egr tube be enough to protect that wiring harness? Its still up against the tube with the protective cover the only protection to the harness. Thanks for input.
 

suaveflooder

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I have a question, The EGR tube and wiring harness are touching after you lift your wiring harness over the fuel rail to make access to the rear head. I had pushed down the cover on the egr tube and forgot to pull it back up when the mod was finnished and the result was some melting of the tape on the wiring harness, I caught it pretty quick. With that being said, will the protective covering (sleeve) on the egr tube be enough to protect that wiring harness? Its still up against the tube with the protective cover the only protection to the harness. Thanks for input.

Yes, I had the same problem, but I didn't catch it in time :(. The sleeve will save the harness.
 

coketo

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If I do a EGR delete I don't need to worry about that pipe anymore right?? Am getting ready to do mine as well
 

mgmustang1

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Nice write up, been dreading doing mine. If you delete the egr tube does the tune have to be changed? Im not running cats.
 

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