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Enkei RPF1's and wheel spacers

Discussion in 'New Edge Cobras' started by SVECobraR, Apr 21, 2021.

  1. SVECobraR

    SVECobraR Active Member Established Member

    Messages:
    2,470
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    montebello, CA
    Five years ago I bought 17x9.5 + 38mm offset RPF1's and now five years later I got around to doing the wheel studs and installing the Enkei's. Unfortunately, I forgot what I had bought the 39/64" drill bit for and I didn't rheem the front hubs and I ended up messing them up. I bought a new set of timken's hubs/bearings, rheemed them, and installed the new studs. I also did a lot of maintenance on her as she's sat for the last five years.

    Unfortunately the Enkei's don't clear the Brembo calipers with stock backspacing, that's probably why I bought the extended wheel studs. Maximum motorsports has been really helpful with trying different fitments and we've agreed that 0.75" spacer is what's best for my setup (the wheel kept hitting my passenger side strut with anything less than 0.6" spacer and I run -2.2 camber).

    Now I need to run some spacers and hub adapters. As much as I want to support MM, which i have plenty in the past, I feel like $120 for two spacers is really expensive. I've found a few on ebay and other websites for $50 a pair and I'm wondering if there is really any difference in hubcentric spacers that don't have stud built in. MM area an aluminum alloy and most of the other vendors advertise theirs as T6 aluminum.

    I'm not even sure if these are going to fit correctly as MM says i'll have to run -3 degree camber to clear my fenders which is really aggressive. I don't want to spend another $300 on wheel spacers and they not be the correct ones and I can't return them.

    Any advice is appreciated.
     
  2. Goindeafonmtx

    Goindeafonmtx Well-Known Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 31, 2006
    Location:
    Evansville, IN
    I have the same wheels with full MM front suspension. My first thought is that they will stick out past the fenders too much with a spacer. Mine stick out more than I like without spacers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. SVECobraR

    SVECobraR Active Member Established Member

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    Location:
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    So what did you do? Here they are mounted with 0.8" spacing with 275/40/17 R888 tires. I moved the spring perch all the way down so i can manipulate the wheel travel and articulation. This is pushed up as far as I can go before it starts coming off the jack stand.

    I included some photos of it.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. SVECobraR

    SVECobraR Active Member Established Member

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    Location:
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    Sorry for the blurry photos.
     

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  5. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    Location:
    Cali
    Did you do the trick where you pull the top of the spindle out before tightening the strut to spindle bolts? That'll give you a little more clearance between the strut and tire.

    FWIW, your tire looks like it sits where mine does with the MM front set up. If I have 0 camber I can see the shoulder of the tire poking out when looking down at the fender from the top. I'm currently at -1 though. Most aggressive I've been was -1.5 I think. But even at less at -1 I didn't have rubbing issues when hitting a bump. The only time I was rubbing was when making a full lock turn. But that was on the inner fender and I don't think it was suspension related. I haven't tried making a full lock turn since raising the car a tad.
     
  6. SVECobraR

    SVECobraR Active Member Established Member

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    Joined:
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    Location:
    montebello, CA
    I haven't tried that. I know the holes are a bit elongated so that might work but effectively that's more negative camber.

    They suggested I run -3 degrees camber, which i don't mind as the car is mainly a track car but I don't want to chew everything up.

    My biggest problem right now is the spacer quality. Does one really make a difference compared to another? Their all an aluminum alloy, i guess they can crack from heat if they are cheap but the wheel studs take the majority of the stress.
     

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