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SN-95 and New Edge Mustangs
Engine rebuild
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<blockquote data-quote="Three21" data-source="post: 16054563" data-attributes="member: 158276"><p>Most affordable build that covers the basics:</p><p></p><p>Block prep (machine shop) -</p><p> - Simple hone, no overbore unless you need to, of so then .020 over with torque plates</p><p> - Check to make sure the deck is square</p><p> - If the main bearings look to be in good shape, you may not need to align hone the mains. Especially with the stock iron block.</p><p></p><p>Stock crank – micro polish if it has noticeable wear, but mine looked brand new after 126k hard miles.</p><p>Rods and pistons - Forged units of your choosing with file-fit rings. A simple plasma-moly ring set will work for <12psi.</p><p>Bearings - Clevite H series or King main and rod bearings</p><p>Heads – if it is consuming oil it could need valve seals or guides. If not then just clean up the chambers and throw them back on with some new lash adjusters</p><p>Timing components - Definitely replace the chains, guides and tensioners with Ford pieces</p><p></p><p>Misc – ARP main studs, ARP side bolts, Ford TTY head bolts, MLS head gaskets, intake gaskets, timing cover gaskets, stock oil pan, new spark plugs</p><p>Transmission - Leave the auto, put in a Bauman valve body recalibration kit to firm up the shifts and call it a day.</p><p>Fuel – twin in tank pumps, 60lb injectors, MAF</p><p></p><p>That will probably put you around $4k, but you will have a fresh, stout 600hp+ capable engine and fuel system ready for that blower or nitrous down the road.</p><p></p><p>If it doesn’t need a rebuild you could just pick up a blower kit and slap it on there with some fuel upgrades. It will def be fun, but just know that at 100k+ miles it will start showing its age. Mine lasted about a month at 126k miles and 10psi of boost. It was a freak accident that forced me into a rebuild, but it does happen.</p><p></p><p>This is definitely a sweet surprise!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Three21, post: 16054563, member: 158276"] Most affordable build that covers the basics: Block prep (machine shop) - - Simple hone, no overbore unless you need to, of so then .020 over with torque plates - Check to make sure the deck is square - If the main bearings look to be in good shape, you may not need to align hone the mains. Especially with the stock iron block. Stock crank – micro polish if it has noticeable wear, but mine looked brand new after 126k hard miles. Rods and pistons - Forged units of your choosing with file-fit rings. A simple plasma-moly ring set will work for <12psi. Bearings - Clevite H series or King main and rod bearings Heads – if it is consuming oil it could need valve seals or guides. If not then just clean up the chambers and throw them back on with some new lash adjusters Timing components - Definitely replace the chains, guides and tensioners with Ford pieces Misc – ARP main studs, ARP side bolts, Ford TTY head bolts, MLS head gaskets, intake gaskets, timing cover gaskets, stock oil pan, new spark plugs Transmission - Leave the auto, put in a Bauman valve body recalibration kit to firm up the shifts and call it a day. Fuel – twin in tank pumps, 60lb injectors, MAF That will probably put you around $4k, but you will have a fresh, stout 600hp+ capable engine and fuel system ready for that blower or nitrous down the road. If it doesn’t need a rebuild you could just pick up a blower kit and slap it on there with some fuel upgrades. It will def be fun, but just know that at 100k+ miles it will start showing its age. Mine lasted about a month at 126k miles and 10psi of boost. It was a freak accident that forced me into a rebuild, but it does happen. This is definitely a sweet surprise!! [/QUOTE]
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