I just installed an ebay alternator from "BNR Parts" this weekend
its a 200amp one and I paid $130.
We'll see what happens
its a 200amp one and I paid $130.
We'll see what happens
ebay alternator- 160 AMP
- Thread starter NateTermi
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I only did a quick log when I got home from the dyno once and it was a drive for 15 minutes.
Its on my to do list to get some more logs for a baseline. :rolling:
interesting thread, im on the fence on which alternator to run. my carquest unit has lasted several years with over 10k miles with no issues. im a little scared with my new build it might take its toll on it though. thinking of ordering a PA along with a 3.2 pulley that my buddy gave me...
I wouldn't be afraid to buy one of these ebay units. Mine held up for a long time and is still holding up for the guy who bought my car.
So I have a question for you guys,
I bought the ebay 200amp one, and my volts are still relatively low. At idle its around 13.3. When the car gets warm it drops to high 12s with acessories on.
I logged my car last night after changing fuel pumps, and my voltage at 5140rpm was 12.1. I would assume the voltage would increase since the alternator is 200amp? or do I need to spin it to 6k to see the increase?
The logs show that this alternator performs the same as my Ford Reman one that I took off thinking it was bad.
I switched the metco pulley from my Ford alt. to this one so its pullied correctly.
Also I ddint upgrade the power wire as most did, do you think that would help my voltage issue?
BTW my battery is like 3 months old, so its pretty fresh.
I bought the ebay 200amp one, and my volts are still relatively low. At idle its around 13.3. When the car gets warm it drops to high 12s with acessories on.
I logged my car last night after changing fuel pumps, and my voltage at 5140rpm was 12.1. I would assume the voltage would increase since the alternator is 200amp? or do I need to spin it to 6k to see the increase?
The logs show that this alternator performs the same as my Ford Reman one that I took off thinking it was bad.
I switched the metco pulley from my Ford alt. to this one so its pullied correctly.
Also I ddint upgrade the power wire as most did, do you think that would help my voltage issue?
BTW my battery is like 3 months old, so its pretty fresh.
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Sounds like your alternator is toast.. the upgrade wiring helps.. but as long as you have good connections.. from what your saying.. that alt is no go no mo!
My bnr shows 14.2 cold and about 13.9 fully warmed up, checked it with my fluke meter a few times. I havent checked to see what voltage is reported by the ecu in a datalog yet though.
I want to say that you should see more voltage in the higher RPM's. I have always thought anything in the low 12s is not good. However, you are running the smaller pulley so Im not sure how that will come into play in the higher RPM's. I would def monitor your A/F if possible and make sure you are not going lean. If I had to guess I would say your new alternator is not performing the way it should.
Just ordered an eagle one yesterday. I'm going to run the wiring upgrade and a 3.2 pulley. Ill report back in a few weeks to a month when I get this thing running on how its charging.
For those who have done the red wire upgrade with this alternator. Was it difficult? How did you do it? Thank you.
Anybody?
I did the heavy guage wire upgrade. It was relatively easy, since I was replacing the Alternator anyway.
Hardest part wast figuring our how to route the wire and keep the mini-fuse bix out of the way.
I ran it from the alternator directly to the + fuse box terminal the thick wire makes it a bit of a squeeze, but it will fit under the stock fuse box cover.
The stock rubber cover for the alt connection will not fit the thicker wire without modification. I would have liked to find a larger rubber cover, but I ended up just cutting the original with a razor and using a zip-tie to hold it onto the new wire.
I left my original wiring in place (unconnected), and just taped off the ends to make sure I did not get any shorts.
According to the chart posted in this thread showing the anemic amp output of those alternators I'm sure it's working just fine. Amp. output is the load the alt can withstand, the higher the amps. the higher your voltage reading will stay. The problem is at low and most of the rpm range your alt. is not putting out anything close to 200a, more like 75a.
As a contrast the Billet Tech alt's put out 150a at idle and 170a by 1700rpm so you have full power all the time. I'm seeing 13.8-14.5v when heat soaked on my in cab gauge and 14.65v across the battery poles with a tester.
Just an update on my Ford Racing Alternator 130 Amp I put in about 80 days ago:
I have hardly driven the car and I haven't logged anything.
Additionally the warmer summer weather has dissipated here in SoCal, so conditions when driving will also be different.
However, no issues running the 3.2 Metco Alt pulley when I've driven it around.
I have hardly driven the car and I haven't logged anything.
Additionally the warmer summer weather has dissipated here in SoCal, so conditions when driving will also be different.
However, no issues running the 3.2 Metco Alt pulley when I've driven it around.
So, it's still working but not really been driven and/or tested.....nice :-D
Just keep us posted :beer:
When my current alternator bites the dust, I am going to stop playing around and just do this, which utilizes a 99-01 Cobra, or 03-04 Mach 1 alternator.
Lighter, saves weight, and should enable the alternator to last longer. It is a little bit of work....but I feel it would be worth it.
Any update on this mod?
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