Dyno and Drag times

dustin88lx

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This is from my original post 700hp here I come so.....

**These are all 100% bone stock numbers**

Alright So I finally got my car on the dyno yesterday and unfortuantely wasnt so happy with the numbers but the weather correction was also terrible. First off the car was on a mustang dyno which inputs the weight of the car and all weather/altitude corrections. The dyno was brand new mine was the first car on it. The car was calibrated at 3500rpm in 4th gear 1:1 and everything seemed fine.

So what did it make??? It made 540hp/613ftlb torque on the rear tires. What we did notice while dynoing yesterday is just as soon as the car would start heating up on a pull it would drop the PSI on the charger the highest boost I seen yesterday was 14lb for a brief moment. With inlet temps at or around 110f. Now as much as the dyno tries to correct the weather/altitude it can't correct the car taking timing and boost from the car. Optimally the car would need to set and cool most likely overnight to see the numbers that are more realistic for the car...i feel like 120hp is one hell of a parsitic loss and is not accurate. We mapped the boost on the car and you could see it would run in the 14s at first and everytime at about 8 seconds it would start dropping boost we seen numbers as low as 11lbs on one pull. So what does this mean???? a. my car is weak as shit b. the car is trying to protect itself c. the dyno is reporting low on hp but making monster numbers on torque or d. it just needs to cool down for a good pull. The lowest number I recall seeing on any independent testing was a 585hp...well see more to come on the dyno.

I am interested to know for those who have dynoed there car how it was calibrated, what was the starting rpm, how long had it cooled, what was the gear everything. I believe I saw in the book that 4th is the 1:1 gear but after watching my dyno video and others seems like mine is pulling for a long long time while others seem to run up and through the rpm band fast as if in another gear. I'm not looking to make numbers for the sake of making numbers I just want a accurate reading and if 540 is the best this things got I am grossly let down.

Next up.....
Drag night....

So as many have said wringing a 11.xx out of this thing is tough any anything below 2.x 60ft on street tires is near impossible. How ford and these independent testers pulled it off no idea....i'm not the greatest driver by any means but I can wheel a car a little bit..

So the best I got for the night was a 12.28 1/4 with a 2.01 60ft on a .7522r/t and a 119mph trap speed...Best launch I was able to get was with the car in mode 7...LC on but not used I launched off the pedal...advancetrac and traction control in SPORT calibration. I tried every mode in the book.... let me tell you mode 4 everything off....thats a fun ride. The power and trap speeds this car has supplemented with a set of slicks would definatly be a low 11.xx car, but until then guess I'm stuck in the 12's.

I am still hoping that the tune will take the cars ability of dropping timing and boost out, but I sorta doubt it. I still have my parts on the way thus far I have recieved my innovators west 10% od pulley and my JLT carbon fiber big air intake. Its looking like tuesday on everything else. So as soon as I recieve everything and get it on Ill have some more numbers on the dyno and at the track hopefully next time with slicks.
 
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flyby763

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I would say your car is making plenty of power with that trap speed. What track did you go to? What did you rev the car to on the dyno?
 

ObieFox

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"I believe I saw in the book that 4th is the 1:1 gear but after watching my dyno video and others seems like mine is pulling for a long long time while others seem to run up and through the rpm band fast as if in another gear."


Mustang Dyno's provide a variable load much like your car would see on the road, so you will see that the pulls take longer as your car overtakes that load. This also means your car is pulling longer and more susceptible to variations in IAT etc...

A dynojet is a fixed inertia load dyno and will allow the car to spool up and complete the pull much faster. Increasing IAT have much less time to effect tuning and pull timing/boost etc...

A mustang dyno is more real world and will give you a better representation of what your engine would experience on on a track.

The videos you are watching are likely Dynojet pulls.

I think 540/613 on a Mustang dyne is a very good number.
 

Iceman5000

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540 is as good as I have seen on a Mustang Dyno. I think it is a very good number. Mustang Dynos are known for reading low, I don't think you have anything to worry about with those numbers!
 

BOD89LX

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Your car is fine 540 whp with 110 inlet temps is good and as far as your drag times you need to more seat time with the car stock before adding power or you may run even slower. The advance trac being on is part of what is killing your ET and MPH get a set of 20" drag radials and get some seat time with the car in stock form and you will be in the mid 11's in no time and trapping 125 plus if its not real hot out. If you can work with the launc control on the street and get it figured out the try it at the track at the same settings and slowly back it off a little each time until you start to go backwards.
 

BOD89LX

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Keep in mind a dyno is a tool and just like any other tool its only as good as the person operating it. Give a tape measure to 10 different people and have them measure something and see how many different answers you get. Dont read to much into a single dyno number.
 

Cam

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Like I said in a different thread, chassis dynos are great tools for tuning, they are not the best at giving accurate horsepower readings. By their nature, they are repeatable, but the accuracy is a function of software, setup, etc.

"Better" chassis inertia dynos will also have eddy current absorbers on them, which can greatly improve their ability to accurately measure horsepower.

As earlier posts mentioned, did you have adequate fans cooling your car during the run, was it tied down properly to the dyno, check tire pressure, what size are the rollers, what fuel did you use? All of these factors will make a difference. Also, which SAE correction did the operator select, there are two common SAE test procedures that most dynos use, and the infamous smoothing factor will have a big impact on peak numbers, especially on an inertia dyno that does not have an eddy current absorber.

Keep your baseline numbers, they are great for seeing improvements that you may make as you mod the car, don't get too worried about the peak numbers, it is the delta that you see as you make changes that is important.

I'd be smiling with a 119mph trap speed, nice!!
 
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dustin88lx

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Thanks everyone for the input....it all makes sense. I think I may have figured out why the hp number was a "little" low. Apparently just turning off TC on the dyno is not sufficient you have to actually hold the break and hold the TC button down for 5 seconds to turn EVERYTHING off, my assumption is, is once it started getting into its real peak power range about 5200-6500 the car felt that it was close to spinning tires so it started taking timing and boost to maintain traction. I may be wrong it's just a guess. The numbers on the track show the power it there...

So last night I returned back to the track, still running on street tires. Wasnt able to beat my 12.28 I ran before, but I dropped my 60ft down to 1.93 on one run, but unfortuanley on this run I botched second gear.I am starting to figure out how to launch the car, its starting to get real fun now. I agree fully with everyone its going to take some time to learn this car and its qwerks, just need wheel time and SLICKKKSSSSS!!!!!! GRRRR...
 

R U TRIPIN

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This is from my original post 700hp here I come so.....

**These are all 100% bone stock numbers**

Alright So I finally got my car on the dyno yesterday and unfortuantely wasnt so happy with the numbers but the weather correction was also terrible. First off the car was on a mustang dyno which inputs the weight of the car and all weather/altitude corrections. The dyno was brand new mine was the first car on it. The car was calibrated at 3500rpm in 4th gear 1:1 and everything seemed fine.

So what did it make??? It made 540hp/613ftlb torque on the rear tires. What we did notice while dynoing yesterday is just as soon as the car would start heating up on a pull it would drop the PSI on the charger the highest boost I seen yesterday was 14lb for a brief moment. With inlet temps at or around 110f. Now as much as the dyno tries to correct the weather/altitude it can't correct the car taking timing and boost from the car. Optimally the car would need to set and cool most likely overnight to see the numbers that are more realistic for the car...i feel like 120hp is one hell of a parsitic loss and is not accurate. We mapped the boost on the car and you could see it would run in the 14s at first and everytime at about 8 seconds it would start dropping boost we seen numbers as low as 11lbs on one pull. So what does this mean???? a. my car is weak as shit b. the car is trying to protect itself c. the dyno is reporting low on hp but making monster numbers on torque or d. it just needs to cool down for a good pull. The lowest number I recall seeing on any independent testing was a 585hp...well see more to come on the dyno.

I am interested to know for those who have dynoed there car how it was calibrated, what was the starting rpm, how long had it cooled, what was the gear everything. I believe I saw in the book that 4th is the 1:1 gear but after watching my dyno video and others seems like mine is pulling for a long long time while others seem to run up and through the rpm band fast as if in another gear. I'm not looking to make numbers for the sake of making numbers I just want a accurate reading and if 540 is the best this things got I am grossly let down.

Next up.....
Drag night....

So as many have said wringing a 11.xx out of this thing is tough any anything below 2.x 60ft on street tires is near impossible. How ford and these independent testers pulled it off no idea....i'm not the greatest driver by any means but I can wheel a car a little bit..

So the best I got for the night was a 12.28 1/4 with a 2.01 60ft on a .7522r/t and a 119mph trap speed...Best launch I was able to get was with the car in mode 7...LC on but not used I launched off the pedal...advancetrac and traction control in SPORT calibration. I tried every mode in the book.... let me tell you mode 4 everything off....thats a fun ride. The power and trap speeds this car has supplemented with a set of slicks would definatly be a low 11.xx car, but until then guess I'm stuck in the 12's.

I am still hoping that the tune will take the cars ability of dropping timing and boost out, but I sorta doubt it. I still have my parts on the way thus far I have recieved my innovators west 10% od pulley and my JLT carbon fiber big air intake. Its looking like tuesday on everything else. So as soon as I recieve everything and get it on Ill have some more numbers on the dyno and at the track hopefully next time with slicks.

i believe your numbers are right on the money.. fords says these have a 8% drive train loss... its not true.. they have a 15% dt loss.. are you running your car on a loaded dyno?? were your pulls about 20 seconds long?? all these cars you see on dyno jets are running 10 seconds pulls or less... it's not real world numbers.. a loaded dyno will give you real world numbers.. i put mine on the dyno the other day and put down 567hp and 559ft-lbs torque.."note it was a 102 degrees outside" also from what we have seen anything above 6250rpms doesnt make more power... it just lets you hold the gear longer... loaded dynos tend to read lower then dyno jets or any unloaded dyno.. some people say that there car weight is enough load for the dyno... that is incorrect.. best way to explain a loaded dyno to a non loaded dyno is as follows.. take a bicycle, turn it upside down so the seat and handle bars on the ground.. now take your hand on the foot peg... spin the tire as fast as you can... you can spin it with no problem... that would be a unloaded dyno... now do the samething but have a friend hold the back tire and try to spin it... its harder for you to spin the tire... this would be a loaded dyno... you can tune a car better on a loaded dyno then you can on a unloaded dyno... the car doesnt have to work as hard on a unloaded dyno verse a loaded dyno... if you put your car on a unloaded dyno your numbers would go up about 30 to 40 hp...

hope this helps you out... if anyone would like to chime in or even correct me... please do...

here's my shelby on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9y7i_xDK0sthe dyno..
 

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