Doing headstuds on my 6.0, what else should I install?

RedfireSVT

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okay looks like i have a leaking head gasket so it's head stud time. i've been doing some searching but i want to cover all my bases and get everything done at one time and i don't want to forget anything. so my question is what should i be replacing while the engine is out of the truck? it's an 05' with 90,000 miles on it, already has the egr delete. here's what i have in mind but if there are other things i should do please let me know.

arp head studs
new oil cooler kit
possibly new injectors
clean the turbo?
 

Ryan

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EGR delete
although you can do it any time, I'd throw on a coolant filter too.
MKM has some 'kits' already put together so you can order everything in one shot.
 

SonicDTR

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I'd recommend doing the ITP regulated return fuel setup and some sort of coolant filter while you are in there.

I sold my 6.0 over a year ago, so things might of changed, but I had my reg-return done along with the studs/gaskets.

Other items to consider is Oil cooler replacement, turbo vane cleaning, and check the wiring harness for chafing. I dont recall which year was affected by the chafing wire, but check it out anyways.
 

RedfireSVT

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just towing and normal driving, i have a cobra if i want to go fast. quite honestly i never understood why people try to make a 7000 pound vehicle fast but thats just me.
 

SonicDTR

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just towing and normal driving, i have a cobra if i want to go fast. quite honestly i never understood why people try to make a 7000 pound vehicle fast but thats just me.

Because its fun to smoke that charger that thinks hes fast, and doesnt realize you're driving a 13/14 second truck.... :beer:

Also launching in 4x4 and chirping all 4 tires is almost more of rush than driving my cobra(when I had it).
 

SVT F15O

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I'm doing mine as I type this. I lifted the cab off over pulling the engine. A lot easier if you ask me.
I am keeping the EGR and went with Bulletproof Diesel's EGR cooler.
New oil cooler of course.
Sent the heads out for a valve job and checking.
Ford OEM head gaskets.
ARP studs.
Cleaning and rebuilding the oil filter housing and high pressure oil pump cover.
Install the Ford "blue" fuel pressure spring.
6.4L banjo bolts(cheap and silly not to do).
Dieselsite coolant filter which is a must!

I sent my injectors out to get rebuilt and turned into 175cc/75% nozzles.
Also putting in a Garrett PowerMax turbo with a Batmowheel.

I think that covers everything I am doing for now. EXPENSIVE!
 

SonicDTR

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I'm doing mine as I type this. I lifted the cab off over pulling the engine. A lot easier if you ask me.
I am keeping the EGR and went with Bulletproof Diesel's EGR cooler.
New oil cooler of course.
Sent the heads out for a valve job and checking.
Ford OEM head gaskets.
ARP studs.
Cleaning and rebuilding the oil filter housing and high pressure oil pump cover.
Install the Ford "blue" fuel pressure spring.
6.4L banjo bolts(cheap and silly not to do).
Dieselsite coolant filter which is a must!

I sent my injectors out to get rebuilt and turned into 175cc/75% nozzles.
Also putting in a Garrett PowerMax turbo with a Batmowheel.

I think that covers everything I am doing for now. EXPENSIVE!

I hope hope hope you sent the heads to someone familiar with 6.0 heads. They can not effectively be milled to remove any warpage or irregularities. Also a good idea to check your block surfaces for flatness while you're in there.
 

SVT F15O

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I hope hope hope you sent the heads to someone familiar with 6.0 heads. They can not effectively be milled to remove any warpage or irregularities. Also a good idea to check your block surfaces for flatness while you're in there.

He has done quite a few. Actually said my 140k mile heads looked better than most of the low mileage stuff he sees.

My truck was never run hot and didn't have a head gasket failure so I shouldn't have any issues.
I had an EGR cooler failure and had all the stuff on hand as I was planning to do it all as preventative maintenance regardless. The failure just forced it a little sooner.
 

RedfireSVT

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mine is an 05' excursionso the cab won't be coming off, the engine will have to come out. the only concern i have is the heads, i have no idea what condition they are in, i guess i'm gonna find out soon enough. what happens if the block surface isn't flat, is there a fix for it? or is the fix a new block?
 
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SonicDTR

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mine is an 05' excursionso the cab won't be coming off, the engine will have to come out. the only concern i have is the heads, i have no idea what condition they are in, i guess i'm gonna find out soon enough. what happens if the block surface isn't flat, is there a fix for it? or is the fix a new block?

I recall being told about a few blocks that werent flat, but dont remember what they did to fix it. I think milling it would present the same issues as milling the head, and that is piston-valve clearance. They are very close tolerance as is. I know a guy that had his heads milled and when he removed the heads thousands of miles later there were clear valve marks on the piston. It still ran great and he slapped it back together like that. But is definitely a weak point now.
 

SVT F15O

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mine is an 05' excursionso the cab won't be coming off, the engine will have to come out. the only concern i have is the heads, i have no idea what condition they are in, i guess i'm gonna find out soon enough. what happens if the block surface isn't flat, is there a fix for it? or is the fix a new block?

People pull the bodies off on Excursions too.
 

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