Well I finally got around to installing this thing it takes maybe an hour if you take your sweet time like I do (i always double and triple check everything)
But its pretty straight forward
You will need a few tools, i used the following
12mm socket
10mm socket
ratchet
socket extension (2in)
10in crescent wrench (forget the exact size but i wanna say it was a 1.5in)
3/32in socket (dont quote me on this...but its for the BAP sensor bolts)
and that should be it.
Now forgive me please as I kinda started taking pics after i pulled the main EGR tube and what not so ill highlight the pieces in my pics and ill explain, so follow along
Please begin by either removing the drivers side wheel or start the wheel and turn it all the way to the right for easy access...dont worry youll end up on your back
Here is the EGR tube assembly.
The end circled in Red connects to the drivers side header (see next pic)
and the green circled area is the top portion that bolts to your upper plenum.
The two rubber hoses connect to the raw cast aluminum looking sensor.
Now here you will be on your back and under the wheel well with your trusty crescent wrench looking up into the engine bay from the wheel well. While looking up you will see this scene..
in this pic you can see (circled in red) the header cap that DMR supplies. this
is where the tube nut pictured in the EGR tube picture above connects. here you will use your crescent wrench and remove the EGR tube assembly and replace it with the cap. Now go back to the engine bay and using a 10mm socket remove the actual EGR valve circled in green (top pic) and then unhook the two rubber hoses that connect to the raw aluminum sensor on the bracket....and now remove the entire EGR tube assembly and save it or throw it away.
Now we will focus on the vacuum and sensor side of things.
Here is the sensor bracket i was speaking about..circled in red.
you will be removing the entire bracket from your engine bay. To do so you will need to use a 12mm socket and remove the nut on the very first bolt holding the blower down (it is a combo bolt/stud), once the front nut is removed you need to pull the rear bolt which is the back bolt right near the boost actuator. Once these nuts are removed, unplug all the sensors and vacuum line and remove it from the vehicle. In the pic you can see i am missing the sensors that were closest to the firewall..the BAP sensor and bypass, if you buy the kit that doesnt use the bypass the bypass will remain on the bracket
now transfer the bypass unit and BAP sensor to the DMR relocation bracket.
for me i had to drill out the brass bushing from the BAP sensor...but this is something that DMR will be working out just bolt the BAP down with the supplied locking nuts and snap the bypass into the square/rectangular hole. (it snaps in kind of like cell phone belt holster) once done you end up with this.
now at this time grab a new EGR gasket or reuse your stocker if it isnt chewed up and bolt the EGR block off plate to the plenum and secure it with the supplied allen head bolts. Also take your assembled bypass/bap relocation bracket and bolt it back down to the read blower bolt/stud and secure it properly. now reconnect the double vacuum plug to the bypass and plug the electrical connector back into both the bypass and the BAP, and lastly reconnect the short vacuum line to the top of the bypass.
when done itll look like this...blocked off and hooked up. Now the dual vacuum plug that belonged to the sensor closest to the blower snout I remove and just capped the line. If you want to you can pull the entire line all the way behind the blower and into the vacuum manifold plug on the passenger side and remove it completely and plug the hole with one of the yellow plugs DMR supplies with their kit. in my case i just capped it off.
here is a close up
that should pretty much do it...now just reassemble your intake and you end up with this
thats it, double check your vac lines and take her for a spin
and yes i know my engine bay is filthy, no i dont like it so shush
if you got questions shoot me a PM
But its pretty straight forward
You will need a few tools, i used the following
12mm socket
10mm socket
ratchet
socket extension (2in)
10in crescent wrench (forget the exact size but i wanna say it was a 1.5in)
3/32in socket (dont quote me on this...but its for the BAP sensor bolts)
and that should be it.
Now forgive me please as I kinda started taking pics after i pulled the main EGR tube and what not so ill highlight the pieces in my pics and ill explain, so follow along
Please begin by either removing the drivers side wheel or start the wheel and turn it all the way to the right for easy access...dont worry youll end up on your back
Here is the EGR tube assembly.
The end circled in Red connects to the drivers side header (see next pic)
and the green circled area is the top portion that bolts to your upper plenum.
The two rubber hoses connect to the raw cast aluminum looking sensor.
Now here you will be on your back and under the wheel well with your trusty crescent wrench looking up into the engine bay from the wheel well. While looking up you will see this scene..
in this pic you can see (circled in red) the header cap that DMR supplies. this
is where the tube nut pictured in the EGR tube picture above connects. here you will use your crescent wrench and remove the EGR tube assembly and replace it with the cap. Now go back to the engine bay and using a 10mm socket remove the actual EGR valve circled in green (top pic) and then unhook the two rubber hoses that connect to the raw aluminum sensor on the bracket....and now remove the entire EGR tube assembly and save it or throw it away.
Now we will focus on the vacuum and sensor side of things.
Here is the sensor bracket i was speaking about..circled in red.
you will be removing the entire bracket from your engine bay. To do so you will need to use a 12mm socket and remove the nut on the very first bolt holding the blower down (it is a combo bolt/stud), once the front nut is removed you need to pull the rear bolt which is the back bolt right near the boost actuator. Once these nuts are removed, unplug all the sensors and vacuum line and remove it from the vehicle. In the pic you can see i am missing the sensors that were closest to the firewall..the BAP sensor and bypass, if you buy the kit that doesnt use the bypass the bypass will remain on the bracket
now transfer the bypass unit and BAP sensor to the DMR relocation bracket.
for me i had to drill out the brass bushing from the BAP sensor...but this is something that DMR will be working out
just bolt the BAP down with the supplied locking nuts and snap the bypass into the square/rectangular hole. (it snaps in kind of like cell phone belt holster) once done you end up with this.
now at this time grab a new EGR gasket or reuse your stocker if it isnt chewed up and bolt the EGR block off plate to the plenum and secure it with the supplied allen head bolts. Also take your assembled bypass/bap relocation bracket and bolt it back down to the read blower bolt/stud and secure it properly. now reconnect the double vacuum plug to the bypass and plug the electrical connector back into both the bypass and the BAP, and lastly reconnect the short vacuum line to the top of the bypass.
when done itll look like this...blocked off and hooked up. Now the dual vacuum plug that belonged to the sensor closest to the blower snout I remove and just capped the line. If you want to you can pull the entire line all the way behind the blower and into the vacuum manifold plug on the passenger side and remove it completely and plug the hole with one of the yellow plugs DMR supplies with their kit. in my case i just capped it off.
here is a close up
that should pretty much do it...now just reassemble your intake and you end up with this
thats it, double check your vac lines and take her for a spin
and yes i know my engine bay is filthy, no i dont like it so shush
if you got questions shoot me a PM
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